Engine light on and Cruise light flashing

[Sticksy]

Yesterday I replaced the Idler pulley and V belt on my MY 06 B spec Liberty. This morning when I fired it up the engine light stayed on and the Cruise Control light has been flashing at me.

Of course the owners manual merely says contact your authorised repairer. I'm wondering if my actions in changing the belt and pulley might have done something or is this purely coincidental?

Also does anyone have any idea what might be wrong and what is involved in getting it fixed?

Any info would be gratefully received.

Cheers
Sticksy

[BillyCorgi]

There should be no connection between your fault and the idler pulley and the belt on a H6 engine.
Servicing these items has never caused me an issue?
Highly coincidental!
Sounds like time to connect the scan tool?

We wonder what you disturbed during the change?

P.S. Add your location on your profile.
Forum members close to your location may be able to offer assistance with a scan tool if they know where you are located?

[Sticksy]

Thanks for your reply BillyCorgi.

I live halfway between Byron Bay and Lismore and work in Lismore. My main concern is whether I'm going to have a problem driving it to work over the weekend as I don't have an alternative.

I did disturb a cable connected to the AC compressor and was able to re-connect this this evening and the air con is now working. I can't find anything else that seems to be out of place.

[nhimsta]

Switch you ignition on and off 6 times from memory .....
IT SHOULD CLEAR IT ....

[BillyCorgi]

There is nothing much in the area of the alternator belt and the idler pulleys to be dislodged to cause a CEL?
If you bumped or dislodged the A/C compressor lead you may have been very vigorous in you efforts to R&R Bely and Pulleys?

Between and behind the PS Pump and Alternator is a Manifold Vacuum sensor mounted on a small stand-off moulded on the inlet manifold.
Check that the connector or hose has not been dislodged during the belt service?
Cheers!

[Sticksy]

Thanks Billycorgi, I had a look at it and nothing seems to be loose in that part of the engine. I'll have another look in daylight but I'm beginning to worry that it is just one of those coincidences that seem to come in 3s. Thankfully this is number 3.

I'll let you know how I go.

Cheers

[Flat6Estate]

There is a way to display any fault codes on the dash of a postfacelift, but I don't know if it works for a postfacelift.

Search for Read fault codes without scantool


At least you might have a way of seeing what the problem is

[BillyCorgi]

I have taken a look at my FSM for prefacelift H6 engines.
I cannot locate any section relating to determining the DTC from the MIL blink rate (after connecting certain underdash connectors).

By comparison, the GEN3 2.5 SOHC Liberty ECU would flash the DTC code through the MIL when the under dash connectors were connected appropriately.
This feature does not appear to be available on the H6 engine ECUs, or at least it is not mentioned in the FSM.

In the H6 FSM there is a procedure for entering a diagnostic mode, once the diagnostic procedure is complete the MIL will advise if OK or NG.
MIL Falshing at 0.5Hz (once every 2 seconds) - diagnosing
followed by
MIL flashing at 3Hz (three times a second) OKAY
or
MIL remains on (solid) NO GOOD - Fault.

The manual then says a Subaru Select Monitor or and OBD-II scan tool is required to read the DTC.

[Sticksy]

Thanks for that last post but it was all above my head. Looks like I'm off to a repairer tomorrow. Thanks anyway guys.

[Curley5959]

I removed the small connector at the front of the manifold (Vacuum Sensor?) when cleaning behind the power steering pump/checking knock sensors which resulted in cruise light flashing. Had to turn ignition on and off several times before it disappeared. About the only connector in that area.

Untitled-1.jpg (86.54 KiB) Viewed 5554 times

EDIT: Or MAF Sensor?

[Sticksy]

Well after about 3 or 4 days the lights have gone out and the car is running perfectly again (touch wood).

I spoke to mechanic yesterday and was told that that is not uncommon in Subies after changing the fan belt and idler pulley. Don't know how accurate that is but hey, my car is working. Yippee.

Thanks for all your input people. That has been really great.

Cheers

[lcn]

I had that identical symptom for no reason - spanning a year, and several lengthy visits to Subaru...
In the end they discovered a sticky cam-phase solenoid (up near the oil filler cap).
(one on each side)... replaced that - and all better.