idler pulley bearing failure

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idler pulley bearing failure

Postby blitz » Sun Dec 28, 2014 9:26 am

Hi guys, I received a nice present before Christmas with a bearing failure on the idler pulley that shredded the belt and melted metal on the mount that the bearing sits against. Have cleaned it up and looks OK to mount a new pulley. Have got from Subaru a new pulley , new washer and new belt. My questions are
- is it bolt, washer, pulley the order that mounts as I can't remember if the washer was on the inside on the engine side and it was destroyed? I think I took off bolt then pulley then a shredded piece of metal. May be that's why it failed was it installed the wrong way to begin with?
- what tension should the bolt be tightened to?
- should I change the tensioner pulley too even if it seems to spin cleanly
- how is the tensioner pulley moved so I can slip on the belt? I think there is a square hole that a ratchet might be inserted and leavered. Is that how its done?
Thanks for anyone's help

Can't find any diagrams that show exploded view of the fitment.
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Re: idler pulley bearing failure

Postby blitz » Sun Dec 28, 2014 9:39 am

Sorry its a 2006 liberty blitzen. Also I think I was thinking of the tensioner pulley on someone else's PIC on a different model so that square hole might not be there. Car is at my old man's place so can't have a quick look.
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subaru accessory belt routing diagram.jpg
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Re: idler pulley bearing failure

Postby BillyCorgi » Sun Dec 28, 2014 1:39 pm

There is a recent thread one-half way down the page on the idler pulley bearing.
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=26323

It should be illuminating.
The bottom line is to replace the bearing at 50,000km intervals.
The bearing itself is cheap and readily available.
Pushing out and pushing in a new bearing is simple and takes a few minutes. (I just use a vice and some suitable sized tubing)
The cost of not replacing, as you have just found out with the melted metal, is potentially expensive.

You move the belt tensioner by putting a ring spanner on the hex head securing pulley B. Turn Clockwise. Try it, and it will become clearer.
The bearing in pulley E usually fails before the bearing in pulley B.
Recommend that both get replaced at the same time.
The tightening torque is in the FSM. 33N-m.
The large washer protects the polymer bearing seals and goes on the outer side.
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Re: idler pulley bearing failure

Postby blitz » Mon Dec 29, 2014 10:11 am

Thanks billy. So the washer that acts as a shield goes on first onto the idler spiggot, then the pulley then the bolt straight onto the pulley? That's what I thought there was no washer under the hex bolt but there was the remainder of some sort of ring that must have been the washer on the inside against the actual bearing.
The new washer has 3 indents and recessed centre, I suppose it will be obvious which side faces the engine and which faces the pulley?
One more question is the tensioner pulley fitment exactly the same?
Thanks mate.
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Re: idler pulley bearing failure

Postby BillyCorgi » Mon Dec 29, 2014 1:24 pm

Sorry, I will redescribe.

The washer with the dimples faces the front of the vehicle.
The washer protects the bearing seal when the vehicle is travelling forward.
Using your description the washer goes on LAST and under the head of the hex bolt.

The tensioner pulley is exactly the same.
However there is a hex nut at the rear of the pivoting tensioner arm that will fall out if you are not aware of it.
When removing the hex bolt from the tensioner pulley remember to get you finger in behind to catch the hex nut.
Get your Short Shift Adaptor viewtopic.php?f=68&t=30525
Get your Gear Shift Rejuvenation Kit viewtopic.php?f=68&t=31240
Get your Centre Differential Rebuild viewtopic.php?f=6&t=31089
Want a custom built Brake Cylinder Stopper? viewtopic.php?f=6&t=31321
Need to hire a Guard Rolling Machine? viewtopic.php?f=6&t=31899
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Re: idler pulley bearing failure

Postby blitz » Tue Dec 30, 2014 9:29 am

wow, thanks. there was definitely no washer under the hex bolt so if what looks like what's left of a washer it was on the inside. About to go to docklands and pick up under bearing and washer for the tensioner and then some grease from repco or bursons. will get some pics up as soon as I can so I can get this right the first time.
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Re: idler pulley bearing failure

Postby BillyCorgi » Tue Dec 30, 2014 9:54 am

You have just been sent a PM with a link to download an image of the idler bearing assembly details from the FSM.
Cheers!
Get your Short Shift Adaptor viewtopic.php?f=68&t=30525
Get your Gear Shift Rejuvenation Kit viewtopic.php?f=68&t=31240
Get your Centre Differential Rebuild viewtopic.php?f=6&t=31089
Want a custom built Brake Cylinder Stopper? viewtopic.php?f=6&t=31321
Need to hire a Guard Rolling Machine? viewtopic.php?f=6&t=31899
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Re: idler pulley bearing failure

Postby blitz » Tue Dec 30, 2014 12:14 pm

thanks mate for the diagram. Have now got the pulley for the tensioner but Subaru couldn't tell me if that also uses a bearing cover which I bought as well just in case. Your diagram doesn't show a cover for the tensioner or the bolt torque. I'm assuming its 33Nm as per T4
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pulley new for tensioner_2.jpg
pulley new for tensioner_2.jpg (30.8 KiB) Viewed 2172 times
PulleyDiagram.JPG
PulleyDiagram.JPG (75.77 KiB) Viewed 2172 times
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Re: idler pulley bearing failure

Postby rolltosave » Wed Feb 04, 2015 3:05 pm

Just replaced both the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley with dayco ep001 parts. $20 each at bearing wholesalers. Very easy job. Luckily I heard mine failing the other night and got straight onto to it so avoided the horror stories I have read about.
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