club.liberty.asn.au

Hey,

I believe my timing chain tensioner is stuffed.

I plan to replace it myself (I am mechanically minding and have had engines apart before replacing headgaskets and the like) and have a few questions.

1.) Does anyone have the part numbers for the tensioners, guides and chains? Where is the best place to source these parts from?

2.) What else should I be replacing while I have things apart? Serpentine belt pulleys? Should I just be replacing the passenger side chain tensioner with the revised part or should I be replacing both tensioners, chains and guides etc.?

3.) Does anyone have a guide to doing this? Does anyone have a place to find the workshop manual?

4.) What do I need to take out to get enough room to play with to do it in the car? Radiator and?

Any other tips, suggestions or advice?

look on the forum here for the Gen4 Workshop Manual
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4686
Engine Section 3 should be the H6DO

I have a Subaru H6 Technical Reference Booklet.
011822-MSA5P0631.pdf
This has good colour pictures of the items you will be playing with.
PM me with an email address if you would like a copy.

While opening up the timing case cover think about anything that tis in there that can fail and cause you to go in again later, Water Pump, etc?

I've never done it myself but have seen my mechanic do one and they are a pain in the butt. Besides taking out the radiator etc to get access to it there are around 30 or more bolts attaching the cover to block and not all are the same length (Tip: use a piece of card board as a template to hold the bolts in the correct order) The chain replacement usually isn't a big deal but re-sealing the cover can be tricky and it's not uncommon for them to leak afterwards.

Same as the post above, you may need to do the water pump while it's open.

As to part numbers, workshop manual etc sorry I can't help.

Good Luck!

Rob.

If anybody does this it would be AWESOME to get a walk through as this is a very common problem. Mine makes noise but im not overly worried at this stage most peoples are much louder. Seems like Subaru stuffed up majorly in the design its almost every 150k the tensioner needs to be replaced

Apparently Subaru now use an updated part for the tensioner which should prevent future issues.

Sweet as a nut

What noise should I be looking for when it definitely needs replacing? Mine makes a small chirp on start up but this morning it was really cold (sub 10 degrees the joy of melbourne winters) and it made an extended chirp which i had not heard from it before. When should i be worried about it?

Swan_Liberty wrote:What noise should I be looking for when it definitely needs replacing? Mine makes a small chirp on start up but this morning it was really cold (sub 10 degrees the joy of melbourne winters) and it made an extended chirp which i had not heard from it before. When should i be worried about it?

Wondering this as well since mine does the same thing. Will try and get it looked at soon.

I don't see why the timing chain would be making a chirping noise as it is all lubricated by oil. I believe the issues you will get from a dry/loose timing chain are loose noise chains if the tensioners are stuffed (typically due to lack of regular oil changes and/or not enough oil), roughish idle, noisy chain sound (if you oil is very low), ticking sound at idle. These noises will typically only occur when the oil pressure is low (i.e. at idle) unless you have major major issues. I would suggest you look at your v-belt that drives power steering, A/C, alternator etc.

After lots of time spent on investigating parts diagrams and the like I have ordered the following parts from USA (as everyone in Australia was not even in the same ballpark pricewise). My car is MY2008 (Post facelift) Liberty Sedan 3.0RB. I managed to get my hands on an electronic parts catalogue for the Legacy (US version of Liberty) which helped a great deal.

Replacement washer to seal the single bolt on the front timing belt cover that needs one
WASHER
[Part#: 10982AA000] x 1 @ $0.82

Oil Seal and O-ring that seal the crank shaft v-belt pulley
OIL SEAL
[Part#: 806738200] x 1 @ $4.70
O RING
[Part#: 806944050] x 1 @ $2.77

Some replacement bolts for the front cover (probably not needed but at these prices good to have some spares)
BOLT-SOCKET
[Part#: 800406080] x 5 @ $1.11
BOLT-SOCKET
[Part#: 800406030] x 4 @ $0.62
BOLT-SOCKET
[Part#: 800406070] x 5 @ $0.88

The 5 timing non-moving chain guides
GUIDE-TIMING CHAIN
[Part#: 13144AA021] x 1 @ $20.89
GUIDE TIMING CHAIN
[Part#: 13144AA090] x 1 @ $37.58
GUIDE-TIMING CHAIN
[Part#: 13144AA051] x 1 @ $13.91
GUIDE-TIMING CHAIN
[Part#: 13144AA031] x 1 @ $20.89
GUIDE-TIMING CHAIN
[Part#: 13144AA012] x 1 @ $27.84

The lever guides that the hydraulic chain tensions act on
LEVER COMPLETE-CHAIN TENS
[Part#: 13141AA001] x 1 @ $34.83
LEVER COMPLETE-CHAIN TENS
[Part#: 13141AA012] x 1 @ $32.03

The hydraulic chain tensioner assemblies themselves
TENSIONER CHAIN
[Part#: 13142AA030] x 1 @ $57.05
TENSIONER CHAIN
[Part#: 13142AA020] x 1 @ $57.05

Replacement bolts for some of the chain guides (as directed by FSM)
BOLT-SOCKET
[Part#: 800406100] x 6 @ $1.11

Total: $329.45 + $62.00 shipping (USD)

So all back together now for a few weeks and working well. Didn't really need the majority of the parts. The guides were a little worn, but nothing major, I replaced them anyway. I reused the sprockets and the chain. I replaced the tensioners.

All in all relatively straight forward when following the workshop manual.

I did discover that my belt idler puller bearings needed replacing, so got some of those and did them as well.

Only part that needs replacing is:

TENSIONER CHAIN
[Part#: 13142AA030] x 1 @ $57.05