3.0R-B buyers guide?

Posts specific to the 3.0 litre NA H6 engine

3.0R-B buyers guide?

Postby cntstandya » Sun Aug 21, 2011 10:36 pm

Posted this over at OzLib, forgot about it for a few days, figured i have some insightful comments but so far nada, so i'm here doubling up to see what wisdom you guys can impart on me.

I'm pretty much settled on an R-B, but apart from the basics I'm not really sure what to look for in the second hand market in terms of a good deal. I want to spend $18K which is lower than almost all the R-B's listed in Vic, but there are numerous ones within that price range interstate and i'd consider buying from a dealer interstate and driving it back (if it was the right one).

How many k's before the subie's going to start throwing parts in the bin. From what i've read, subies are know for cooking clutches but i'm not sure how many k's they'll do as a guide to how soon i'd need to replace it in the one i buy (obviously it all depends on how it was driven by its previous owner but a rough guide would be good).

It's going to be my daily driver and it'll receive some modest mods, exhaust, front lip, AUX cable and a set of OEM STI wheels (if i can find them).


Any other common faults or issues i should be on the look out for?

Thanks in advanced.
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Re: 3.0R-B buyers guide?

Postby tangcla » Mon Aug 22, 2011 9:58 am

Are you sure you're set on a 3RB? I have a 2.0GT for sale around your price bracket.
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Re: 3.0R-B buyers guide?

Postby cntstandya » Mon Aug 22, 2011 10:34 pm

unfortunately i'm still restricted to NA, so yeah i'm set on a 3.0R-B
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Re: 3.0R-B buyers guide?

Postby Ric » Tue Aug 23, 2011 11:22 am

cntstandya wrote:...
How many k's before the subie's going to start throwing parts in the bin. From what i've read, subies are know for cooking clutches but i'm not sure how many k's they'll do as a guide to how soon i'd need to replace it in the one i buy (obviously it all depends on how it was driven by its previous owner but a rough guide would be good).
...

A regularly serviced car should do many 100,000 kms without losing major parts.
I haven't heard that comment about clutches. I'm still on the original clutch after 130,000km. It can vibrate a little if the revs are too low and you let it out slowly, but I regularly tow a 1400kg trailer with no clutch slip at all.
The only real "gotcha" to watch for is oil consumption. Depending upon how the engine was run in, early 3.0R engines can be guzzlers.
Subaru rate 1L per 2,000km as "acceptable". that means it can run dry between scheduled services if you don't check it.
Most will be well below that figure, but they still need a top-up between services.
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Re: 3.0R-B buyers guide?

Postby Jelwin » Tue Aug 23, 2011 7:27 pm

i dont know where you live Nick, but I have a mate in Mt Eliza Victoria selling a 3.0rb in absolutely perfect condition. has 120000kms but still drives very good. has an exedy clutch (HD), Phat mufflers, a Vin Tune, and some other things. oil consumption, as Ric said, can go either way. my car uses a fair bit, but my mates doesnt use any (hardly).
other things to note, is that lower control arm bushes tend to wear through and crack fairly often, depending how hard you drive. and the gearbox of the 6-speed can throw synchros if abused often, but are normally very good, and last.

PM Nick Byrne, Byrnn09, if you want to know about his car for purchase
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Re: 3.0R-B buyers guide?

Postby smythie » Tue Aug 23, 2011 8:00 pm

Ric wrote:I haven't heard that comment about clutches. I'm still on the original clutch after 130,000km. It can vibrate a little if the revs are too low and you let it out slowly, but I regularly tow a 1400kg trailer with no clutch slip at all.
Mine clicked over 150,000km last week on the original clutch. I've been expecting to need to replace it for a year or so now but still no slip.

Still, a clutch is a wear item. If you don't want to replace a clutch in the life of the car you should be looking at some horrid thing with a torque converter :twisted:
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Re: 3.0R-B buyers guide?

Postby cntstandya » Wed Aug 24, 2011 11:37 am

Ric wrote:
cntstandya wrote:...
How many k's before the subie's going to start throwing parts in the bin. From what i've read, subies are know for cooking clutches but i'm not sure how many k's they'll do as a guide to how soon i'd need to replace it in the one i buy (obviously it all depends on how it was driven by its previous owner but a rough guide would be good).
...

A regularly serviced car should do many 100,000 kms without losing major parts.
I haven't heard that comment about clutches. I'm still on the original clutch after 130,000km. It can vibrate a little if the revs are too low and you let it out slowly, but I regularly tow a 1400kg trailer with no clutch slip at all.
The only real "gotcha" to watch for is oil consumption. Depending upon how the engine was run in, early 3.0R engines can be guzzlers.
Subaru rate 1L per 2,000km as "acceptable". that means it can run dry between scheduled services if you don't check it.
Most will be well below that figure, but they still need a top-up between services.


Thanks for the heads up about the oil consumption, i'm actually looking at a couple this weekend so it'll go on the check list.

Jelwin wrote:i dont know where you live Nick, but I have a mate in Mt Eliza Victoria selling a 3.0rb in absolutely perfect condition. has 120000kms but still drives very good. has an exedy clutch (HD), Phat mufflers, a Vin Tune, and some other things. oil consumption, as Ric said, can go either way. my car uses a fair bit, but my mates doesnt use any (hardly).
other things to note, is that lower control arm bushes tend to wear through and crack fairly often, depending how hard you drive. and the gearbox of the 6-speed can throw synchros if abused often, but are normally very good, and last.

PM Nick Byrne, Byrnn09, if you want to know about his car for purchase


Hadn't read anything about the control arm bushings needing replacing, how much are they to replace and are they likely to be picked up on during a roadworthy? Also hadn't read about the synchros in the 6sp box, only that they're really solid items, anything i can look for to indicate wear, aside for difficult selection?

I've read that doing the Exedy HD clutch replacement can leave you with a heavy feeling peddle, do you know if your mates suffered from this phenomenon.

ps. I'm actually looking at your mates this saturday.

smythie wrote:
Ric wrote:I haven't heard that comment about clutches. I'm still on the original clutch after 130,000km. It can vibrate a little if the revs are too low and you let it out slowly, but I regularly tow a 1400kg trailer with no clutch slip at all.
Mine clicked over 150,000km last week on the original clutch. I've been expecting to need to replace it for a year or so now but still no slip.

Still, a clutch is a wear item. If you don't want to replace a clutch in the life of the car you should be looking at some horrid thing with a torque converter :twisted:


Good to hear, most of the stuff i've read concerning clutch wear has been around the topic of launches :wink:, which is for hoons who end up on Today Tonight anyway. Totally understand that clutches wear, just trying to avoid buying a car that needs $xxxx spent on it after a few months.
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Re: 3.0R-B buyers guide?

Postby Jelwin » Thu Aug 25, 2011 8:18 pm

cntstandya wrote:
Jelwin wrote:i dont know where you live Nick, but I have a mate in Mt Eliza Victoria selling a 3.0rb in absolutely perfect condition. has 120000kms but still drives very good. has an exedy clutch (HD), Phat mufflers, a Vin Tune, and some other things. oil consumption, as Ric said, can go either way. my car uses a fair bit, but my mates doesnt use any (hardly).
other things to note, is that lower control arm bushes tend to wear through and crack fairly often, depending how hard you drive. and the gearbox of the 6-speed can throw synchros if abused often, but are normally very good, and last.

PM Nick Byrne, Byrnn09, if you want to know about his car for purchase


Hadn't read anything about the control arm bushings needing replacing, how much are they to replace and are they likely to be picked up on during a roadworthy? Also hadn't read about the synchros in the 6sp box, only that they're really solid items, anything i can look for to indicate wear, aside for difficult selection?

I've read that doing the Exedy HD clutch replacement can leave you with a heavy feeling peddle, do you know if your mates suffered from this phenomenon.

ps. I'm actually looking at your mates this saturday.


Yeh the rear side bushing cracks/splits, and yeh the previous owner of mine had to replace one for rwc.
As for the synchros, it obviously depends on how one drives. i drive hard on the occasion so i expect mine. but others haven't had any troubles. Sti box is a very good match for the Lib motors so you shouldn't need to worry. normally a change in oil grade is the answer if the synchros start to slow down. the selection will only crunch if pushed hard and fast, that's the only way to tell. under normal load they should change fine. i need to double clutch my 5th-to-4th when downshifting. in saying all that, i can flat shift at the right point and the gearbox is brilliant :)
The Exedy clutch isnt bad. being a HD its obviously going to have a higher clamp force. therefore pressure needed to push it in is going to be greater than a normal clutch, but its not by much.
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Re: 3.0R-B buyers guide?

Postby cntstandya » Fri Aug 26, 2011 9:53 am

Jelwin wrote:
cntstandya wrote:
Jelwin wrote:i dont know where you live Nick, but I have a mate in Mt Eliza Victoria selling a 3.0rb in absolutely perfect condition. has 120000kms but still drives very good. has an exedy clutch (HD), Phat mufflers, a Vin Tune, and some other things. oil consumption, as Ric said, can go either way. my car uses a fair bit, but my mates doesnt use any (hardly).
other things to note, is that lower control arm bushes tend to wear through and crack fairly often, depending how hard you drive. and the gearbox of the 6-speed can throw synchros if abused often, but are normally very good, and last.

PM Nick Byrne, Byrnn09, if you want to know about his car for purchase


Hadn't read anything about the control arm bushings needing replacing, how much are they to replace and are they likely to be picked up on during a roadworthy? Also hadn't read about the synchros in the 6sp box, only that they're really solid items, anything i can look for to indicate wear, aside for difficult selection?

I've read that doing the Exedy HD clutch replacement can leave you with a heavy feeling peddle, do you know if your mates suffered from this phenomenon.

ps. I'm actually looking at your mates this saturday.


Yeh the rear side bushing cracks/splits, and yeh the previous owner of mine had to replace one for rwc.
As for the synchros, it obviously depends on how one drives. i drive hard on the occasion so i expect mine. but others haven't had any troubles. Sti box is a very good match for the Lib motors so you shouldn't need to worry. normally a change in oil grade is the answer if the synchros start to slow down. the selection will only crunch if pushed hard and fast, that's the only way to tell. under normal load they should change fine. i need to double clutch my 5th-to-4th when downshifting. in saying all that, i can flat shift at the right point and the gearbox is brilliant :)
The Exedy clutch isnt bad. being a HD its obviously going to have a higher clamp force. therefore pressure needed to push it in is going to be greater than a normal clutch, but its not by much.


Any idea on bushing replacement costs?

I'll be on the lookout for synchro wear tomorrow.

Also good to hear the Exedy HD isn't too heavy, I'm driven a few cars with stupid heavy clutches that i absolutely hated.
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Re: 3.0R-B buyers guide?

Postby Jelwin » Fri Aug 26, 2011 6:21 pm

dont know exactly no.
yeh i doubt he has synchro wear on his, because he hardly ever drives it :)

well it is personal preference for how hard you want your clutch. ive driven a triple plate race clutch through the city for a while and didnt mind, but thats just me haha
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Re: 3.0R-B buyers guide?

Postby The Sean » Sat Aug 27, 2011 2:20 pm

I might be completely wrong, it was a while ago but I had my bushes done under the extended warranty I had with the dealership and I think I saw the line item was charged at $400 for OEM ones supplied and fitted.

Like I said, could be remembering it wrong.

Either way, one of the commercial dealers on here PHAT GT sells or can get some after market ones that I remember reading good things about.
Now that I'm in North America, I'm greatly concerned about raised pick-up trucks and owners of wedge shaped vehicles. Seriously, not only do you have to be concerned about one hitting you in an accident, they stand a good chance of driving over you at the same time!
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Re: 3.0R-B buyers guide?

Postby cntstandya » Sun Sep 11, 2011 10:59 pm

i missed out on Nick's (Byrnn09) a few weeks back, but i put a deposit down on an 06' w 85,000kms today, in almost perfect nick.
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Re: 3.0R-B buyers guide?

Postby seanmau5 » Sun Sep 11, 2011 11:56 pm

For future reference, PHAT has aftermarket LCA bushes for around $200-$250.. By all means, please do not take that as a set in stone price - he picks his prices.

You might find that the bushes on your new car will need replacing - my car has 90000 on the clock and they're shot :(
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Re: 3.0R-B buyers guide?

Postby The Sean » Mon Sep 12, 2011 4:31 am

Mine were done at the 50K service but the car was 5 years old at that point.
Now that I'm in North America, I'm greatly concerned about raised pick-up trucks and owners of wedge shaped vehicles. Seriously, not only do you have to be concerned about one hitting you in an accident, they stand a good chance of driving over you at the same time!
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Re: 3.0R-B buyers guide?

Postby cntstandya » Mon Sep 12, 2011 5:15 pm

thanks for the heads up, i'll be surprised if they need doing but i'll hear from the seller tomorrow afternoon, post RW inspection about replacement parts.

speaking of phat, who else makes those kind of quad tip mufflers? those and a front lip are my first orders of business.
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