Big end bearing questions

Posts specific to the 3.0 litre NA H6 engine

Re: Big end bearing questions

Postby Kekotic » Sun Apr 10, 2011 10:33 pm

Wouldn't it have to already have a lot of pressure if it can get the oil up through the turbo's small 0.5cm hole or whatever it's size is?
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Re: Big end bearing questions

Postby BUDDAH » Sun Apr 10, 2011 11:24 pm

chaotic2050 wrote:Wouldn't it have to already have a lot of pressure if it can get the oil up through the turbo's small 0.5cm hole or whatever it's size is?





Kieran its not just pressure its also flow a massive truck filter has a massive internal surface area for a little 4cyl car oil pump to push oil through.
Think of a pool pump the pressure direct from the pump could shot a stream of water 20 meters strait up .Connect it to a pool filter and the pressure coming out of it wouldn't get 5 meters high and the flow would be restricted. Connect the same pool filter to a fire truck pump and it could also reach 20 meters.
Same as a car oil filter small filter good exit end pressure and flow massive truck oil filter very low pressure and exit flow would result

Oil filters restrict oil flow they also have a built in bypass valve.
The engine manufacturer selects a oil pump that can satisfactorily deliver enough oil to the engine internals and also have enough FLOW to push oil through a nominated filter OEM filter.
It is impossible to look at 2 filters side by side and expect them to be the same and do the same job . They could have different filter materials different surface area. The filter on my bike is the same size and the 3RB and I doubt the internals are the same. Different internal filter material is use where different viscosity oils are used. Why do you think there are So many different filters available every one preforms different for a reason .
One filter may have a more or less porous material that allows more or less oil through it than the other. One may have a different bypass pressure rating. Fitting a massive filter with very large internal surface area is going to restrict oil flow . When building a engine lets say for racing oil pump size /delivery/pressure is taken into consideration if the engine is dry sumped this is also taken into consideration along with size and volume of external oil coolers.
Fitting a massive oil filter to a unprepared engine just don't make sense to me. But Im just a simple person :wink:
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Re: Big end bearing questions

Postby Kekotic » Sun Apr 10, 2011 11:29 pm

I'm just trying to get you guys to explain all this shit to me by starting an internet drama thread.
It's working so far, keep up the good work guys hehe.

Speaking of all this, where abouts is the oil pump located on the boxer engine? Like how far away from the oil filter?
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Re: Big end bearing questions

Postby BUDDAH » Sun Apr 10, 2011 11:43 pm

chaotic2050 wrote:I'm just trying to get you guys to explain all this shit to me by starting an internet drama thread.
It's working so far, keep up the good work guys hehe.

Speaking of all this, where abouts is the oil pump located on the boxer engine? Like how far away from the oil filter?


Dont know to be exact but most filters are on the end plate of the pump so if the filter is full of shit kiks the internal bypass in the filter dumps back into the main gallery
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Re: Big end bearing questions

Postby kiks » Mon Apr 11, 2011 3:38 pm

Buddah, the filters I listed have the same or higher filtration rate than anything you would ever find oem on a car. Same filtration rate with higher surface area = higher flow and higher pressure.

If the permeability remains static, than a higher cross sectional area results in better filtering, longer filter life and less pressure drop across a given area. But we're talking about less than a few psi difference here. General rule of thumb is the biggest possible fuel, air and oil filters the better. A larger filter with a higher filtration rate and a smaller micron shield will provide the same flow and pressure rates as a smaller more permeable filter.

Im not saying go out and buy a massive big oil filter, as they dont 'need it', but having one is going to always do more good. Looking after oil is fairly important, dont you agree?
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Re: Big end bearing questions

Postby Robbks » Mon Apr 11, 2011 4:17 pm

chaotic2050 wrote:I'm going to go for a 5W-40 Redline oil also. only $100 which seems pretty reasonable.


How big is the drum.??
'cause for 5 litres thats a bl00dy joke
anymore than $40-50/5L for a road car is utterly ridiculous.
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Re: Big end bearing questions

Postby Kekotic » Mon Apr 11, 2011 6:34 pm

Robbks wrote:
chaotic2050 wrote:I'm going to go for a 5W-40 Redline oil also. only $100 which seems pretty reasonable.


How big is the drum.??
'cause for 5 litres thats a bl00dy joke
anymore than $40-50/5L for a road car is utterly ridiculous.


I was led to believe that Redline 5W-40 oil is quite expensive, $20 a litre is cheap or so the guy told me?
Or maybe he was saying $85 for 5 litres?
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Re: Big end bearing questions

Postby kiks » Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:02 pm

Its an expensive way to do an oilchange. I'd rather do 2 changes of total/ELF at half the intervals :p
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Re: Big end bearing questions

Postby Kekotic » Mon Apr 11, 2011 8:26 pm

I usually do less than 100km per week, so for me it's not really that expensive :)
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Re: Big end bearing questions

Postby teK-- » Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:01 pm

kiks wrote:Its an expensive way to do an oilchange. I'd rather do 2 changes of total/ELF at half the intervals :p


+1, better to use a good oil and change more often (with the filter as well), rather than a high end oil and change half as often for the same price.

Unless of course one needs a specialty oil for super high heat tolerance or something, extended track use etc. In that case go for a pure group 5 like the Redline, or Motul Chrono for example.

From what I've red on BITOG, Group 5 are great for high heat tolerance but they should be replaced sooner than 3s and 4s.
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Re: Big end bearing questions

Postby kiks » Mon Apr 11, 2011 10:14 pm

How is that 100km a week broken down? 5 trips? 10 trips (to work and back 5 days a week?) or one on the weekend.

KM's doesnt matter as much as amount of starts and heat cycles. Food for thought, not being critical.
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Re: Big end bearing questions

Postby Kekotic » Mon Apr 11, 2011 10:22 pm

I only drive the car on the weekend.
So 1-2 drives per week, sometimes 0.
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Re: Big end bearing questions

Postby Robbks » Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:56 am

kiks wrote:KM's doesnt matter as much as amount of starts and heat cycles.


^^ Good food for thought.
hence my 5000km oil change intervals.
i do 10km each way to and from work, and 100km each way trip every second weekend
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Re: Big end bearing questions

Postby BUDDAH » Wed Apr 13, 2011 7:27 am

I cant see any practical or other reason to put $20 liter AU$ oil in a domesticated engine other than to brag about it :wink:

The only reason I can think of been worthy of using Redline oil is they make a good 0w-30 for winter and 5w-40 for summer where its only gets to 25c during the day and nights are still cold . Other than that Castrol Maganetic is more than satisfactory.

If Castrol charged $30 a liter it would be a better oil :?: Redline oil in the States is $8l in Kmart :shock: So you pissing $$$up the wall here in Ozz
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Re: Big end bearing questions

Postby norbs » Wed Apr 13, 2011 10:11 pm

Oil starvation is not the only thing that kills big ends. Excessive knock can do that too. Go to NASIOC and look at some of the crank/big end threads and you will see heaps of ideas on the issue. I don't know if there is a definitive answer. Seems like the boxer engine is more susceptible to it.
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