club.liberty.asn.au

<GB> wrote:any reason for the pumps to shit themselves ?

Probably better to ask the Chinese factory who make them.

alessandro132 wrote:Tony, stop stuffing around with the idea of a Tribeca and stuff an EZ30 into the Yaris and add some boost.

Hopefully you're not too fond of the FA20 already to seriously consider this.

Already making more power out of unopened FA20s

coyote wrote:

alessandro132 wrote:Tony, stop stuffing around with the idea of a Tribeca and stuff an EZ30 into the Yaris and add some boost.

Hopefully you're not too fond of the FA20 already to seriously consider this.

Already making more power out of unopened FA20s

Dan's BRZ on sugarcane syrup??? It's too slow, no boost control and sounds terrible


Was looking at an early GenIV GT....now not so sure? Is an H6 is the way to go

Sean82 wrote:Dan's BRZ on sugarcane syrup??? It's too slow, no boost control and sounds terrible

Was looking at an early GenIV GT....now not so sure? Is an H6 is the way to go

Nah, not Dan's BRZ. It is too slow. I'm doing Garrett and Borg Warner setups tomorrow. Should be interesting.

Knowing what I know now, I'd get a H6 over a GT.

coyote wrote:Knowing what I know now, I'd get a H6 over a GT.

.

Quote saved for posterity..

Robbks wrote:

coyote wrote:Knowing what I know now, I'd get a H6 over a GT.

.

Quote saved for posterity..

Not an NA H6, they are shit.

Shove some boost in and it's a different story.

coyote wrote:

Robbks wrote:

coyote wrote:Knowing what I know now, I'd get a H6 over a GT.

.

Quote saved for posterity..

Not an NA H6, they are shit.

Shove some boost in and it's a different story.

Tony I'm keen to know of any built h6's going around and what sort of dosh to build?

I would think a stout ez30 would cost circa 8k to get right with cams and headwork, which will support 1000awhp with the right tune and turbo.

Anyone want to buy a jdm spec c motor???

dr20t wrote:Tony I'm keen to know of any built h6's going around and what sort of dosh to build?

I would think a stout ez30 would cost circa 8k to get right with cams and headwork, which will support 1000awhp with the right tune and turbo.

Serge has built some for offroad racing buggies and light aircraft, but that is silly money.

Kiks/Cracka/Ian's brother had one in a Gen3 Liberty that I think was built by Robin Berado and installed by AM Auto.

I don't see $8k getting you near 1000hp though ... at least not for long.

dr20t wrote:
Tony I'm keen to know of any built h6's going around and what sort of dosh to build?

I would think a stout ez30 would cost circa 8k to get right with cams and headwork, which will support 1000awhp with the right tune and turbo.

Anyone want to buy a jdm spec c motor???

You thought your airflow figures were good? Matching it on 16psi

coyote wrote:

dr20t wrote:Tony I'm keen to know of any built h6's going around and what sort of dosh to build?

I would think a stout ez30 would cost circa 8k to get right with cams and headwork, which will support 1000awhp with the right tune and turbo.

Serge has built some for offroad racing buggies and light aircraft, but that is silly money.

Kiks/Cracka/Ian's brother had one in a Gen3 Liberty that I think was built by Robin Berado and installed by AM Auto.

I don't see $8k getting you near 1000hp though ... at least not for long.

Custom Pistons with rings $1200
Custom Rods and wrist pins $1200
Acid dip and square deck block $250
Sleeving and boring $2200
Dowelling / close decking $1200
Bearings $250
New crank $500
Linish and cross drill crank $250
Balance rotating mass / assembly $250
Blueprint / assembly of bottom end $1000
Head service $800
Mild Porting $1000-1200
Custom grind cams $1200
Valve springs / retainers $500
Arp 625 headstuds $550
Cometic style fusion Headgaskets $350
Other gasket / seal kit $400
Oil pump $450
Arp case bolts $450
Sump baffle/ modify sump $500
Timing kit (chain and tensioner / idler pulley) $300

Total : $14,800 -$15,000 for long block

Then you have bolt on / other costs:

Remove and refit $1000-1500 depending on who does it and what fluids etc
Exhaust manifold $1000-1200
Decent enough Turbo $2500
Ewg $400
Fuel system $2500 (id2000's, walbro intank to dual 044's in surge tank, fpr, speedflow fittings, Teflon lines in bay)
Fmic and piping $1500-1800
Inlet manifold mods $500
Exhaust $1000
Tune $1000-1500
Various $1000

Sub Total $12,500 to $13,500

Total cost $28,500 to $30,000

500awkw very easily on 30psi. Then you have driveline problems

Mick

coyote wrote:

Sean82 wrote:Dan's BRZ on sugarcane syrup??? It's too slow, no boost control and sounds terrible

Was looking at an early GenIV GT....now not so sure? Is an H6 is the way to go

Nah, not Dan's BRZ. It is too slow. I'm doing Garrett and Borg Warner setups tomorrow. Should be interesting.

the MDX BW setup? watching Dan's updates of the install...pure porn!

coyote wrote:Knowing what I know now, I'd get a H6 over a GT.

H6 stable with a ~60lbs/min turbo (e.g.BW EFR7670) putting out ~250kW???

Sean82 wrote:

coyote wrote:

Sean82 wrote:Dan's BRZ on sugarcane syrup??? It's too slow, no boost control and sounds terrible

Was looking at an early GenIV GT....now not so sure? Is an H6 is the way to go

Nah, not Dan's BRZ. It is too slow. I'm doing Garrett and Borg Warner setups tomorrow. Should be interesting.

the MDX BW setup? watching Dan's updates of the install...pure porn!

coyote wrote:Knowing what I know now, I'd get a H6 over a GT.

H6 stable with a ~60lbs/min turbo (e.g.BW EFR7670) putting out ~250kW???

The car that is the topic of this thread has been making north of 250atw for around 20,000km and despite killing Chinese fuel pumps has been as stable as a stocker.

coyote wrote:The car that is the topic of this thread has been making north of 250atw for around 20,000km and despite killing Chinese fuel pumps has been as stable as a stocker.

Cool! Thanks Tony

Perrin already have a forged combo

http://blog.perrinperformance.com/perrin-h6-build-up/

Relatively inexpensive actually

dr20t wrote:Custom Pistons with rings $1200
Custom Rods and wrist pins $1200
Acid dip and square deck block $250
Sleeving and boring $2200
Dowelling / close decking $1200
Bearings $250
New crank $500
Linish and cross drill crank $250
Balance rotating mass / assembly $250
Blueprint / assembly of bottom end $1000
Head service $800
Mild Porting $1000-1200
Custom grind cams $1200
Valve springs / retainers $500
Arp 625 headstuds $550
Cometic style fusion Headgaskets $350
Other gasket / seal kit $400
Oil pump $450
Arp case bolts $450
Sump baffle/ modify sump $500
Timing kit (chain and tensioner / idler pulley) $300

Total : $14,800 -$15,000 for long block

Then you have bolt on / other costs:

Remove and refit $1000-1500 depending on who does it and what fluids etc
Exhaust manifold $1000-1200
Decent enough Turbo $2500
Ewg $400
Fuel system $2500 (id2000's, walbro intank to dual 044's in surge tank, fpr, speedflow fittings, Teflon lines in bay)
Fmic and piping $1500-1800
Inlet manifold mods $500
Exhaust $1000
Tune $1000-1500
Various $1000

Sub Total $12,500 to $13,500

Total cost $28,500 to $30,000

500awkw very easily on 30psi. Then you have driveline problems

Mick

Lol @ your prices. Go do it and tell me it didnt cost $30k for the long block it self. Clearancing the main bearings is a 30+ hour job and costs $1.5k+ in subaru case bolts alone.

Also, is shit idea. Just rip the gay subaru engine out and fit something useful like a 2j.
A 2JZ fits. Does whats needed, you'll never break another front driveshaft again, and for an honest 6k does what $30-40k EZ30 does.

A stock EZ30 with a turbo is value right there though. baller as.

Also kidoperson.

That perrin piece of shit blew holes in the block once, siezed a main another time, caught fire twice, was sold twice, didnt run for 6 years because americans are retarded, and made a full 250 less horsepower than it's earlier completed, and still running flawlessly at 600+hp atw Australian counterpart.