club.liberty.asn.au

Hi Guys,
Since I bought my Liberty a few years back I've noticed it's always burned a bit of oil (needing a top up between services) but recently it's been using a hell of a lot. I did the last service myself (112K) replacing the oil filter with genuine subaru and using the recommended green bottle castrol oil and just checking it just 3000k later it's already down to the empty mark.
I got the borla replica headers with full exhaust, and a K+N filter if that makes any difference to my story.
Will changing the grade of oil make any notable difference, or is the oil usage just a sign for worse things and $$ to come? I'm also assuming that those bottles of "stop your engine using oil" remedy's you see at the autostores are a waste of time also?

Cheers

What oil weight you using? 10W-40 would be the norm for that mileage.

That mileage is by no means high but to go from Full to Low in 3,000km is higher than average. Bear in mind Full to Low is not more than about 600ml from what I remember.

(or did you mean Full to empty as in no oil on the dipstick at all?)

Firstly I would bin the K&N filter and get a regular paper filter. ryco or if you insist on genuine then Subaru but there is not much difference except price. The K&N may have been letting through lots of particles if not due to incorrect oiling, then by its inherent characteristics.

Do you know where you are losing the oil? Smokey exhaust or underbody leaks?

Cheers for the fast reply,

I've only ever used 10-40 magnatec to top up and assume thats what they used to fill it with when I took it into subaru for a service.
I would say the oil level is very low, must be near the bottom of the dipstick (not that i've checked) I just know It's low because the faint tappety sound it makes when it starting to get too low.

The k+n filter was one of the first things I put in when I bought the car, and as far as I know the gain is negligible. First thing I was going to do tomorrow was get a bottle of oil, so when I'm about it I may as well get a paper filter and see if things improve. The oil is definatly coming out the exhaust because if I don't wash my car for a while I get a bit of a black sooty mark around near my exhaust.

10W 40 is too thin for a car thats 11 years old. I would recommed 15w 14 as a minimum.
All cars burn oil, especially after the 100,000Km mark, Your cars older, your valve seals and piston rings may be worn and this allows oil to pass into the cylinder.

Nulon make a product that "STOPS SMOKE", its a honey-style consistancy that lines your cars internals. Does it work, ..it does, it last only a few weeks but your car suffers in performances and takes a lot longer to get up to temperature.

- Its good if your selling the car, and you know someones coming to have a look at it

Do you notice when you're losing the smoke? Ie. only when the engine is hot or only when cold, or only after idling for a while? If it's only when cold you need to get an oil that's thicker when cold (15 or 20W) or vice versa if only losing oil when hot. If it's only losing oil when idling then it's likely the valve stem seals allowing lots of oil blowby. Either get new seals or use thicker oil which is a bandaid fix.

well to put in in perspective,

i bought a new ''09 wagon in may last year, i have since done just under 42,000km in it. it burns abit over a litre per 4-5000km.

when i asked subaru about this they said it was quite normal as they spec an appox loss of 800ml per 2000km.

they also told me to drop in every 4-5000k or when the level is low and they would top it up for free, i have since been back 4 times for a topup and not paid
once, not to mention a free coffee each time while i wait!

sh1ft wrote:well to put in in perspective,

i bought a new ''09 wagon in may last year, i have since done just under 42,000km in it. it burns abit over a litre per 4-5000km.

when i asked subaru about this they said it was quite normal as they spec an appox loss of 800ml per 2000km.

they also told me to drop in every 4-5000k or when the level is low and they would top it up for free, i have since been back 4 times for a topup and not paid
once, not to mention a free coffee each time while i wait!

This is appaulingg!!
Just shows, subaru knew about the problem. And instead of re-engineering tolerances and/or recalling, they are quite happy to "top up" reservoirs.

Honestly, this is something you dont hear about Late Japanese Spec cars. Obviously a problem with the 4th generation Liberty, Ive heard of this issue from various people with a liberty, and myself included.

All cars loose oil, but at 42,000km, and buying the car NEW, i would be asking for my money back.

Hi guys,
Well there's something wrong with my engine somewhere. I've used nearly a 5l bottle of oil since my last post and need to get some more. (done about 4000k more and using a 20W oil). I also changed the air filter to a ryco.
Where do I go from here? I'm not sure when the oil is being lost (hot/cold/idle/load etc) but I assume I'd need to get a compression test done to write off damaged or worn rings/bore before I replace the valve stem seals? My uncle is a retired mechanic and was hoping he would be able to stuff around with this for the cost of a carton rather give someone else $$$$. Does doing the valve seals require removing the engine, or hopefully without? Can't find too much info about this issue so hoping someone can help.

Cheers.

whats the colour of the smoke being burnt?

marki wrote:whats the colour of the smoke being burnt?

I don't really know what I'm looking for when it comes to smoke colour. Doesn't really matter now, It's booked in to get a compression check etc on friday. I've had a look at a few websites at it seems that this should point me in the right direction as to what needs to be done. I'll let you guys know what progresses.

Got Eblens at Kingswood (local subaru place) to do a compression check and all is well on the compression front.

1: 200
2: 205
3: 200
4:195

So I guess this actually proves sweet FA, other than my compression rings are doing what they're supposed to and the bore is in shape.
Do all the rings wear out at essentially the same rate? Because my compression rings are alright, does that generally mean that the oil rings should be ok as well?

Next step they said to do was a oil usage test. eg, refill with a measured volume of oil and remeasure it after 1000km.

Surely it must be the valve stem seals. I don't hear of too many engines needing to be rebuilt at just of 100K because of the rings. Any insights let me know

Took my car in for a the 125K service today and a oil consumption test has been started. However, the fact that the car had only 1 litre of oil left (after topping up about 1000ks ago) and the back of the car being covered in oil spots after being washed yesterday leads me and the guys at the dealership to believe that the engine is buggered.
Why couldn't this have waited until I finish my uni degree and I have a constant supply of cash?

As tempting as it is to safely drive my car into a tree, I'm going to have to hunt for a new engine.

I have a 99 RX Manual liberty sedan, done about 125K and the oil rings are most likely rooted (early I know)
I live in Adelaide, I have an uncle in Mildura that is a retired mechanic and has a fully decked workshop in his back shed, so the actual swapping shouldn't be too painful.


What engine, and where should I get it from? How much will It cost?

- Should I get a Low KM jap import B4 half/front cut and swap the TTengine/loom/etc and possibly get the front bar, lights, grill, bonnet and dash cluster to update my car from a RevA?

-Should I just replace the 2.5L Engine, or is it only a bit more expensive to upgrade to a turbo?

- Should I transplant an engine from a V5 wrx front cut, thus getting the benefits of a single turbo engine?

- If I did upgrade the engine to a turbo, would I need to get a new bonnet, could the original non turbo bonnet be modified or is it legal/cost effective to add a front mount inter-cooler?

I assume that replacing the 2.5 with a 2.0TT will be legal as it was essentially an option for my model car and many people have done the swap before me.. Do I need to upgrade the brakes or other components though?

I'm after peoples opinions about what to do in my particular circumstances, as cost is a constraint and I believe it's not as easy to source well priced good quality engines in Adelaide when compared to bigger populations such as Sydney or Melbourne.

Please don't go abusing me for not searching, I have. I just want more relevant Info..

Cheers, Ian