club.liberty.asn.au

I changed the title of this post so that it may help others to know what needs doing. Mainly because of the valuable input from others. It originally started as a thread inquiring about the suitability of a particular intake hose which began as >>>
Sorry for what may be a stupid question but further to my other current thread regarding VF 52 I am also looking for the intake hoses. I think this is one that I require...Can someone please confirm this is the correct one and what other hoses will I need ? I can't find a "Y" pipe for the IC listed anywhere but I suspect that is because the 2.5 turbos point in a different direction. So there may not be such a thing on these engines. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/13316603748 ... WYQAvD_BwE

Can someone point me to the correct OTHER piping I will need. I know I will also need a CAI if anyone has one the wish to part with..Cheers.

I have a 2009 forester*, not an 07 Liberty GT, so take some of my assumptions that follow with a grain of salt.

(*with an upgrade to VF46 and plenty of silicone intake hoses. Apparently a VF52 wil fit mine with no modification. VF52s came standard with the "S Edition" forester)

That red silicone pre-turbo hose looks right.

If you use the stock airbox (which I recommend over a so-called Cold Air Intake) I recommend an aftermarket (eg Kobe) short fat hose between airbox and that red pre-turbo hose. The stock short fat hose (which I have a spare of by the way if you want it, from an SH forester) might not be a great match with an aftermarket silicone pre-turbo hose. I have a perrin pre-turbo hose. I modified a Kobe short fat hose to fit well between airbox and pre-turbo hose.

As you have correctly spotted elsewhere there is no "Y pipe" on these flanged turbo bolt-to-intercooler models.

If you haven't already, replacing the throttle body hose with a Kobe (or similar) silicone hose is good because the OEM model has the rubber ends come off.

A VF52 should fit with all stock intake parts on your model anyway (assuming flanged VF46-bolted-to-crossflow-intercooler was stock), so all this running around for aftermarket intake stuff is fine but perhaps not necessary unless your stock intake gear is a bit sad.

I'm also not too far from Mt Glorious, so send me a PM if you want to have a look under the bonnet of mine sometime just to confirm how everything joins together.

Thanks for the info. The less I have to buy to make an improvement in the performance of the Liberty, the better. The guys on Mighty Car mod took an 09 forester with a stock td04, swapped it for a modded VF34, put a good downpipe and exhaust system and took it from 125 atw up to 182 atw and the curve on the dyno sheets was very impressive. It still had the stock airbox and pipe work. All the intake piping etc on mine seems to be in good condition. I would love to see what setup you have. My plan tomorrow is to take the cover off and have a look under there to familiarize myself a little more. You are welcome to come out anytime and we can compare our piping..lol.. I do miss the intake noise when driving my Lib . I have removed the resonator from within the guard but it made no difference to the sound unlike the rex which had a noticeable increase of induction sound when I first got rid of the resonator. That was maybe 10 years ago. It has had a CAI now for many years. I had only decided to get all the pipework in the last 24 hours or so but if it is not going to make that much difference I am happy to leave it all looking stock. I have seen comparison videos of with cai and with stock airbox and there is not a great deal of difference on the dyno graphs. Looking forward to seeing what you have done.. I am retired so I am home most of the time. Only thing I have planned that will take me away from home sofar in the next week is a visit to my wife's elderly parents tomorrow afternoon sometime after 1400 . Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. Much appreciated.. PM me if you are free to come out sometime.. Cheers..

The listed inlet does not exactly retain the stock inlet pcv return hoses pressure differential.
This has been seen to cause pcv & crankcase pressure issues (Flatirons YouTube)

If your pcv system is still stock, I’d recommend and have installed the psr v2 type inlet.

For a stock install you’ll just need to source a butt joiner for the sump breather return, on top nearest the turbo compressor, or chop the elbow at the inlet end of that hose, to suit the supplied L fitting.

It’s around an easy 3 hour install without lifting the intake manifold.
Hmu for the tips

There’s a bunch of other stuff you can do whilst the tmic & inlet are out of the way.
Postfl bank1 banjo filter, pcv check, clean replace, ziptie various hoses, silicone throttlebody hose, etc.
Upgrade comp outlet & bov bolts to studs & nuts...

Ben as always I appreciate your in depth answers to my sometimes newbie questions. But just to clarify this "chop the elbow at the inlet end of that hose, to suit the supplied L fitting." (sorry if I have misunderstood you) .. Does this means the breather hose that is currently connected to the stock intake that the red intake is replacing, will need to be cut so it goes onto one of the brass "L" inlets on the red intake. Yes ???
Secondly ... I have no idea what this means.. " I’d recommend and have installed the>>>> PSR V2<<<< type inlet." Sorry Ben. It's just that you are much more knowledgeable about these things and a newbie like myself struggles with the terms that are soo familiar to gurus like yourself.
And this sentence .. Quote .."stock inlet pcv return hoses pressure differential" .... just left me feeling like I should just send it off to Russell, Steve and the boys at Subi Evo and tell them to "Make it go fast like my Blue one ! " ... LOL...
On a different note.. Yowie came over today to show me his set up and help me get straight in my thoughts exactly what pipe/hoses I need. Thanks mate.. I can now stop looking for a Silicone "Y" pipe for the Lib IC because they don'e have those.. LOL... I took him for a drive in the Blue rex.. I pretty sure he liked it. I drove his Foz with the vf46 and was very impressed with how an auto can go with a little bit of tweaking. Can Hardly wait for the lib to get it's goodies installed. I think I will be very happy. Again Ben. Thanks again for your detailed reply.. Cheers.

PS.. I found this for sale for $200 and the little red pipe is Almost $100 by itself ... It is same width as stock but 40 mm taller and 30-40mm thicker than stock.. I suspect it wont allow the Facia to go back on unless I add brackets.. Get it...or just get a hose from somewhere ???????

Stifull - cheers for showing me the Subaru collection and for the ride in the blue GC8 (2.5L with VF22 from memory - a real rocket) and for the chance to drive the Liberty. The Liberty is a very stylish Executive Express of course. Very fast as-is, but itching for the upcoming transformation with bigger turbo, dump pipe and tune.

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FYI this is the "short fat bit" / MAF hose straight off the airbox we were talking about: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/132462653452

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That intercooler looks interesting. The relationship with the plastic engine cover would probably depend on how much bigger it is than stock, and in what dimensions. The critical thing would be the bonnet ducting mating up with it (or most of it) ok when the bonnet comes down. If you were adding tabs for the plastic engine cover, may as well also weld-on threaded bosses on the hot and cold side for use with air temp sensors.

For that price I'm tempted to buy it off you and have a mess with it myself if you don't want it.

Some users of aftermarket intercoolers cut off the top section of the plastic engine cover, or run with none, or use one of those front-only dress-up covers (or accessory belt safety guards if we're being generous).

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I'm also a bit stumped by Ben's comments on the pre-turbo pipe. I'm trying to work out where the missing spigot (?) is. Ben, is it the one on top of this Perrin example? https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/Per ... y-GT-04-09

Wow.. The prices of some of these silicone pipes is outrageous. But, like you said, people are paying for the name. I have spoken to the guy with the Intercooler and i think I will get it. it is 40mm longet front to back , which is not a lot, but, it is also 40mm thicker so it has a lot bigger volume. It seems with the silicone hoses, the smaller they are the more expensive they are.. LOL. That little one is $98 including freight. I saw the fat hoses and now have them on my watch list. The guy said the IC sits a little higher but most of the extra thickness is underneath. It came of an 08 rex that he now has a front mount for. He recons it is a good ic and handles high boost well. I guess if you take away the $98 for the hose the IC is only $100 and i should be able to get that back if I decide against it. I am arranging with him to get it so it can sit on the workbench with the downpipe... LOL... One step closer i guess. Thanks for coming over today and sharing your knowledge. I have a much greater understanding of what and where everything goes. I took the facia off again tonight to sus it out some more. I think I can probably do all the install myself. I shall talk to Russ and steve re getting the inlet hose installed but with the ic off and the other stuff out of the way it should be an easy fit. There is a lot more room under there than in a gc8. I had to buy a second intake pipe for the blue one because I destroyed the first one trying to get it to go under the manifold.. looking forward to Ben's reply so I don't stuff things up... Cheers..

That’s correct, psr v2, Perrin are supplied with an elbow fitting for the sump breather inlet return.
We didn’t have a butt joiner so that pipe was trimmed to suit the supplied elbow.

Luckily, the only photo I made on the day was of the proposed cut
You can see the sump breather return pipe is still attached at the other end to the three way joiner and the short pipe to the sump breather port, adjacent/below/towards the passenger side of the compressor edit: the return to pcv on the rear of the inlet manifold...



For installing the inlet, you’ll need a spring clamp compressor, or two long handle needle nose pliers: for the bov return hose.
I used a set of straight and 30’ nose pliers, the next week I found a proper spring clamp compressor tool at the market lol.

The angled tip pliers close the clamp, the straight pliers help to close the clamp on its lock.

Very important:
The other talent you’ll need is to understand that the inlet etc, can’t be forced into place on the compressor inlet.

Rather, you offer it up, reduce pressure and twist the inlet a little axially, and it should just jump into place:

This is very counterintuitive, if you get frustrated, walk away and have a cuppa, then try again.

We did not trim the end of the psr v2 inlet, it’s a fairly loose fit on the compressor inlet, meaning it will jump on if the angles are correct and there’s not too much force pushing and distorting it.

The tmic in your pics is an avo or the eBay knockoff.
It fits the stock engine cover with some trimming.
Some use draft sealer rubber to get a better fit/airflow.

If its the knockoff type, maybe pressure test it prior to install.



As for the throttlebody hose, take time to clock it correctly compared to the stock tb hose.
Here’s a psr tb hose correctly clocked.

I use a paint pen to mark tdc on the intercooler end of the upgrade hose, offer it up to the throttlebody, and tighten the clamp with the hose correctly oriented, paint dot up.

I use oetiker stepless screw clamps from eg Aircraft Spruce, on this install we used Norma hose clamps with pressed teeth threads, not the holes type (which are only good till they slip and fail permanently).

In the pic, the upper end that drops down is the throttlebody end.

If you clock your hose clamps properly, they can both be tightened through gaps in the mess of pcv pipes, using 1/4” extensions.
From the front of the car, both clamps bolts would be pointing up at around the 4 o’clock position.
Its crucial for easy checking and maintenance...

Confirmed, the throttle-body hose is a pr!ck to clock correctly. I second the "test & mark" patient approach. It will take a few goes. Your final marks should be permanent so they are useful next time the throttle body hose has to come off.

That "clocking the hose" issue is one of the reasons I went for studs hanging out of the turbo flange (rather than bolting the intercooler down to the turbo flange) - at least you can hang the turbo end of the intercooler on the turbo studs (at whatever level of "tightened down" you need at that moment) while you mess with the throttle body hose orientation to get everything as right as it's going to get.

Thanks Ben.. Appreciate the effort. The new intercooler has some damage on the under side. Not a lot and only a small area. The seller made up a blanking plate and bolted it in one side and they were able to pressure test it before he installed it on his car. It held firm pressure at 110 PSI. he was happy with that and used it on his '12 Rex until he went to front mount..

The intercooler hose is still in the correct position and was not unclamped for removal so it should be in the correct position.

I can't picture what this means...

For installing the inlet, you’ll need a spring clamp compressor, or two long handle needle nose pliers: for the bov return hose.
I used a set of straight and 30’ nose pliers, the next week I found a proper spring clamp compressor tool at the market lol.
The angled tip pliers close the clamp, the straight pliers help to close the clamp on its lock.

but I think that will become clear as the job progresses.

The Subaru community, at least up in QLD, seem to be a helpful bunch. The guy I got the downpipe from was very helpful with info, as is the guy with the intercooler and the guy supplying the Intake pipe with all the brass "L" brackets. I wasn't planning on replacing the IC but for $100 and the fact that I can put the shroud on with a bit of trimming is good. On the rest of our cars, all the pipework is black and not noticable, especially to someone who isn't familiar with rexs so it is going to be a bit unusual to look in the engine bay and see bright red hoses.. but at least everything I have found at the right price is the same color..lol. There isn't a lot of logical choices as far as the MAF to intake pipe is concerned. Some are 3.5m others 4 and the KOBE ones are 5 with cloth and steel reo .. I have ordered one of those.
So.. All that is left to do is get the VF 52 issue sorted.. I have found a few places that rebuild them and also places that sell them but I am concerned that some of them are Chinese turbos. From posts in the delica club in which i am a member, several people have had issues with those. One fellow got his and had it balanced before he installed it and just as well because apparently it was out enough to not last a long time. Anyway, I am sure it will work itself out. Sofar the Megan downpipe, AVO or copy intercooler, and all 3 KOBE quality pipes has cost $690 . I am pretty happy with that.

Stock ECU tuning of new set up and transmission.... Any thoughts.. Yowie said Mat is good but I could be waiting weeks or more for that to happen,, Also Coyote and another with a short one word name.. Aaahhh.. Don't get old guys, remembering your own name will get hard.. LOL..

Thanks again Ben for all you devotion of your time to me and other members. I am sure everyone appreciates your effort.
I regard you as the Liberty clubs equivalents to the Delica Clubs #1 Guru "Terence" ...(club has 49,708 members mainly OZ)

Update.. I think I have all of the parts required except 2 worm drive hose clamps to go around the big red hoses to join them together. I bought one of these from ebay to join them and it should be arriving in a few days.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/23367016648 ... ctupt=true
The turbo is bought and is waiting to get picked up from Newcastle by my son when he flies up here next week for a wedding. He's doing another season in Thredbo and flying out of the Newcastle airport so he'll deliver it to me. The turbo has been fully rebuilt and ported etc by MMP turbos and Luke from MMP has confirmed that the turbo hasn't been on a car and said he was happy to give me 6 months warranty. I am also waiting on the air filter. I chose to get a High Flow K&N air filter so I can use the stock airbox, which has been deresonatored and has 2 fresh air inlets. Not quite as good perhaps as an in guard pod like we have in our other 3 rexs but it is a LOT better than an unboxed pod in the hot engine bay and certainly a lot cheaper than a CAI. This is the filter..
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/15305199408 ... %3A2334524
NOTE.... It seems there is 2 different K&N filters..The HIGH FLOW has a dash 3 (-3) after the part number.. 33-2304-3 So confirm with seller that is the -3 before purchasing..
So I think that is it as far as parts go. I asked about the need for a bigger flowing fuel pump and was told mine should be ok but to as the tuner , if ever I can find one, what their thoughts are and I may need to get one.. I am very happy with the parts I have. Everything including a freshly rebuilt and upgraded VF52 has only cost me $1750 so far.. I wasn't planning on an intercooler upgrade but the little red pipe that is attached to is is $98 so I figure for $200 including the pipe it was good value for money. It is a well made copy of an AVO top mount. The Megan Racing downpipe will need a bracket welded onto it but I will get that done when it has all been installed. The top mount had STi sprayed on it which I have removed but there is still a bit of red paint on some of the fins.

Good to see it's coming together - including what sounds to be a properly rebuilt and ported turbo. I'm keen to see the porting work when that turns up. The whole setup will be a real weapon once all fitted-up and tuned.

If you need to trim down that 3" metal pipe joiner that won't be a big deal. The joiner I have doesn't have that beading on the ends and there are no issues. FYI Motorsport Accessories at Brendale are a good source of pieces of alloy pipe, silicone hose, perhaps hose clamps and every other bit of generic gear needed for these sorts of projects.

Have you test fitted that new intercooler yet? If not it might be worth a test-fit before the whole operation needs to come together when the turbo gets fitted.

"...stock airbox, which has been deresonatored and has 2 fresh air inlets." - by that do you mean the stock snorkel hole and also the hole where the resonator used to be? If so, the ex resonator hole will draw in warm engine bay air unless you extend it to a source of fresh air. Not a critical issue - just something you can mess with as it suits you. If you have the Torque app (for phone or other Android device) you can monitor intake air temp (which is measured at the airbox MAF sensor) with the resi hole open or plugged-up respectively.

[I have a box of spare 57mm alloy and silicone pipe sections (including one 90 degree silicone elbow) from my cold air intake project if you wanted to experiment. Eg. starting with a 57mm-to-76mm silicone straight reducing hose off the airbox. The only reason for 57mm in my case was to get past the narrow point in the bumper. If you are routing cold air from elsewhere you might be able to run with a larger diameter. ]

Thanks mate. Yes I remember you showing my your setup with the stock airbox with hose leading to cool air inlet. Once I decide it is time to start pulling it all apart and fit the new stuff I might take you up on that hose. I am trying to leave it alone till I can do it all together. I don't want it off the road as it is my daily. The intercooler came off another engine the same as mine and didn't need any moding to get it on so I am hoping it just drops into place. I could try the new one on to check for fit but I don't want to be taking off those brittle black hoses for the sake of a pre fit trial because they might fall apart and then I will be forced to either start the job prematurely or put the new hoses on and install everything except the turbo and downpipe. I sat it on top of the other and it all lines up so it should be fine. The turbo will be here next friday so the conversion will start sometime after that. Give me a call to check if I am doing it and you can come and have a look if you want.. I might start on the airbox pipework as I should be able to do that without disturbing the hoses too much.. To be honest, I am not a fan of exciting things happening, even good things. I tend to get wound up and anxious, even though I have done far more difficult things that this many times. I remember when we bought our 2 first Delicas from Japan. It took 12 weeks from buying them to having them both sitting under the house. I didn't sleep for the whole 12 weeks, and for several weeks after they arrived. Just can't shut brain off.. In some ways its a good thing because I go to bed with a problem that needs solving and when I get up the next day, I have the problem solved, but at the expense of a good nights sleep. I picked up 2 hose clamps today while at Autobarn. I was getting some paint to paint one of the little bikes my son bought a couple of weeks ago. A pee wee 50 and a pee wee 80 (for grand children to race around and tear up our lawn. He is now their favorite Uncle..LOL) , The 80 has a shocking paint job and Yamaha don't have paint codes so it's getting painted World rally Blue..LOL.. very similar to gen colour. That project will keep me busy till the turbo arrives.. I remembered you saying about smoothing off the edges of the alloy joiner. The ribbing around the ends must interfere with smooth airflow so yes I will be cutting those off. It is 76mm long so there will be still 50mm of joiner left which is plenty. This is a photo of my son, who is now down at Thredbo, riding the 80 with his nephew in hot pursuit. The little guy has just turned 4 and has learnt to ride it very quickly and his auto response to the brake etc has already kicked in . He still only goes less than 1/2 throttle but he is loving it. He's driving his parent crazy because he wants to come out here EVERY day..

Not sure what the Forester is like but on the liberty the intake hole for the resonator is at the very bottom of the airbox on the mudguard side and looks straight down into a great big chasm where the stock horns live.. it's on the opposite side of the chassis rail to the engine and I think the air in there would not be hot. I may add a bit of hose there so it is drawing from the middle/bottom of the hole where in theory it should be cooler.. It may be a waste of time and not make any noticeable difference but , just like cutting the ribs off the intake joiner tube, every little bit helps.

Cheers for the update.

If the intercooler and silicone throttle body hose were the only two new things to go on in the short term, you'd be making progress without getting in the way of the parts up to and including the turbo.

The turbo will be here next friday so the conversion will start sometime after that. Give me a call to check if I am doing it and you can come and have a look if you want..

Cool. If the turbo is still off on the Saturday (26/6 or 3/7?) I'd be keen to pop over and have a look at the porting work etc.

Not sure what the Forester is like but on the liberty the intake hole for the resonator is at the very bottom of the airbox on the mudguard side and looks straight down into a great big chasm where the stock horns live.. it's on the opposite side of the chassis rail to the engine and I think the air in there would not be hot. I may add a bit of hose there so it is drawing from the middle/bottom of the hole where in theory it should be cooler.. It may be a waste of time and not make any noticeable difference but , just like cutting the ribs off the intake joiner tube, every little bit helps.

Yep, same/similar in the Forester. From experience (and slightly unreliable recollection):

(a) the car moving teds to mask sins, whereas moving slowly or being stuck in traffic exacerbates whatever "drawing hot air" problems your setup might have;

(b) the stock setup with resonator removed will tend to draw hotter air under slow/stopped conditions;

(c) with the resonator hole routed to an external source of cold air, it takes a lot longer than "100% stock" for the airbox temp to come up in slow/stopped conditions and the max temp is lower.

The reduced flow restriction to the airbox is harder to measure, but it must make a difference.

The actual project to route cold air to the bottom of the airbox is a bit of a multi-day epic the way I did it. It's certainly not a priority project so it could be saved for after the upcoming major work is done. Ways to make my version easier include:

(i) using convoluted brake ducting tube rather than various alloy and silicone bends;

(ii) routing the cold air pickup point to somewhere behind the bumper, but not nec. sticking out into and facing the air-stream; and/or

(iii) having a "straight shot" from the airbox to very low in the engine bay without attempting bends (thus saving the rigid-mounted-to-chassis silicone adapter). Experimentation could determine if the intake air was cold enough from down low in the engine bay in all but "stop-start traffic" conditions.

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I can see why the little rooster likes coming over so much with that little motorbike on hand to ride around.