club.liberty.asn.au

As regards the turbo heat shield, I think it’s the rear section that needs to be radiused to suit the extra diameter of the dump bell mouth.

Temporarily no clamps might work, I use zip ties on the vacuum hoses and the pcv 3 way and bov vacuum reference hose.

Generally jubilee clips elsewhere aka hose clamps.

I reinforce the ends of the head breather hoses using heat shrink, as they tend to crack next to the head.

Heat shrink can be used as an alternative to zipties, especially smaller vacuum hoses.

I''ve got a collection of dozens of spring clamps ranging from 4mm to 15mm so I will use them up.

The following is a series of photos which shows the differences between the VF46 and th VF52 which has also peen ported..
No points for guessing which is which. The fans on the exhaust side a very different in size the 52 is 50mm across while the 46 is only 40mm across so there is a 25% size difference there and the billets are very different BUT the 52 has a newly developed billet built by MMP or PPM.. sorry cant remember which way that goes ..

This 52 should produce a LOT more power than a stock VF52 that come in the 08-14 Stis.













I have marked out the cover to cut a hole for the boost controller. I think it will look good when I am finished. I will also have to make a bracket for the top of the cover as there is only one on the LHS and nothing on the RHS.. Starting to get excited instead of dread.. Hopefully if the turbo cooperates it may even get finished tomorrow. Bummer I have to wait till Monday to get the hose.

Had a much better day today fitting the turbo and Intercooler. Soo tight in there getting to clamps etc but it has come together well.

I am waiting on a couple of hoses. One i will get from SCA tomorrow and one coming from Subaru monday.. Exhaust will go on tomorrow and I have to make some brackets up for the top mountings of the engine cover..

The GT is the cut out of a stencil that I will paint onto the IC tomorrow as well.

Also need to make up a couple of brackets for the downpipe. It seems that you can't get 3" exhaust clamps any more. I will use something else..

I had to cut a hole in the cover for the boost controller, or move it somewhere else . I chose the hole option .. I also had to trim the front and the rear of the IC opening on the cover so it sits nicely on the IC all the way round, On the stock IC it sits over the end top and bottom. I had to bend the bracket underneath to get it out of the way because the IC is almost twice as thick . I think it's a bracket for the clutch in a manual.

Great stuff. The parts are coming together nicely and the gremlins seem to be being dealt with.

Yes.. Thank goodness. Still hard going. I wouldn't do it again.. Way too tight in there. I used some of the blue vacuum hose, thanks. I can drop it back tomorrow if you like as well as your jerry cans. They are a much more user friendly size aren't they. Bit scary taking to the cover with the jigsaw and angle grinder but it fit's the new IC like a glove now..

No rush getting vacuum hose or jerry cans back.

If you're confident you're done with the stuff and you're swinging by the local Supercheap anyway - feel free to drop stuff in.

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Engine covers are replaceable from the wreckers, so nothing is permanent if you end up tinkering with a different boost controller mounting later.

Woohoo.. It's alive. Started easily and is doing all things normal. Got it up to operating temp and let it sit for 10 minutes with heater on and coolant circulating nicely, no air locks, fans cycling on and off. No weird noises. Sounds a little louder.

I think it likes the new colors in the engine bay. I think it thinks it's Christmas because it has put all it's flashing dash lights on for me..Slippery road light (no idea what that's for) is on.. Check engine light is on, Cruise control light is on, S mode light is flashing. I was expecting there to be some code things going on. I have left the boost controller unplugged so it will not boost while driving it to the tune but I wasn't expecting the "S" drive light to be flashing. I was hoping to drive it down in "I" mode but it wont change to "I" or "SS" mode so I guess it's in sports mode. I though if in doubt it would choose "I" mode and the flashing "S" is just part of a code..
Anyway. should I be freaking out a little or is all this normal and to be expected ?

and..... is it safe to gently drive it 45 klm across town ?

and .....should I plug in the new boost controller just to see if it turns any lights "off" .. I know I can't drive it with that connected..
Any feedback would be appreciated.

and .....should I plug in the new boost controller just to see if it turns any lights "off" .. I know I can't drive it with that connected..

That might be the source of the error codes. Unless you have a code clearer, plugging back in might not clear the dash.

That aside, plugging it back in (with or without routing some vacuum line direct from compressor housing to wastegate) should be fine for a gentle drive. The risk is giving it a bootfull and getting into an area of revs/boost the closed loop maps haven't anticipated, running lean and having some destructive knock.

Driving as-is (or some variation) will be fine, it's probably just in rich "limp home" mode that will do no long-term damage.

I have to go over to Subievo tomorrow to pick up a breather hose (I made one up just to get the cat started to check for leaks etc) and to drop off the Downpipe that someone has been reminding me about for 6 weeks . I ring Russell first and check if they clear codes or leave it for the tuner to do. I have been practising driving it slowly so I should make it 10ks to Brendale. I was expecting codes because it thinks it hasn't got a boost controller so maybe it's best to leave it thinking that so it stays in "limp" mode , if in fact that is where it's at. I didn't drive it this afternoon. I just wanted to get it to operating temp to check for leaks, etc etc .. Was quite happy with how it started and idled and it's new sound..

Subi Evolution will be able to check & clear codes. Pros & cons either way creeping around in rich "limp home" mode or just clearing the code and driving carefully.

Limp Home

- no chance of giving it a load of welly and sending it into a load of lean boost.

- at least there is no cat to foul up at the moment

Clear codes & drive carefully

- Not running rich, not washing oil off the cylinder walls, not wasting fuel, not fouling plugs, not fouling 02 sensors, etc.

- will allow any other issues (that might be currently camouflaged) to emerge.

- a bigger turbo will be even easier to drive around out of boost (or will be about the same if the dump pipe offsets the slower spool-up).


Not a big deal either way.

Thanks Yowie. I took it to Subievo to pick up a hose I was waiting for and Russ got Steve to clear the codes. They were all relating to the boost controller being unplugged so I plugged it in and he got rid of all the flashing lights and I now have S I and SS , so I can leave it in "I". The "slippery road" light (what is that anyway) came back on but goes off when restart but comes back on in a few seconds. I suspect it's because the hoses to the boost controller are all blocked off ATM.

Had 2 strange events on the way there, both to do with the brakes. 1st was going down our steepish street, felt like abs shake when I applied the brakes to slow at the bottom of the hill. 2nd event was also while applying brakes down hill. It felt like one wheel bound up a little and it pulled to one side then released... Strange. I did a panic stop in a safe place about 10 minutes later and it stopped brilliantly, as it does. The only thing that it had done that was a bit strange was that it was jacked up quite high on one side for 6 days and the brake vacuum boost hose was disconnected as was the battery for 6 days as well.. Very strange .. Was good the rest of the way there and all the way home..

Good work with the progress.

Pretty strange brake behaviour. If it stays away - all good. I can't think of a reason for that.

Stifull wrote:The "slippery road" light (what is that anyway) came back on but goes off when restart but comes back on in a few seconds. I suspect it's because the hoses to the boost controller are all blocked off ATM.

Had 2 strange events on the way there, both to do with the brakes. 1st was going down our steepish street, felt like abs shake when I applied the brakes to slow at the bottom of the hill. 2nd event was also while applying brakes down hill. It felt like one wheel bound up a little and it pulled to one side then released... Strange. I did a panic stop in a safe place about 10 minutes later and it stopped brilliantly, as it does. The only thing that it had done that was a bit strange was that it was jacked up quite high on one side for 6 days and the brake vacuum boost hose was disconnected as was the battery for 6 days as well.. Very strange .. Was good the rest of the way there and all the way home..

The "slippery road" light is your Traction Control System (TCS).
The traction control system helps to keep you in control of your vehicle in the event that one or more of your wheels lose traction while you're driving. This is most common in snowy, icy, or otherwise less than ideal road conditions.

From Google search

It is only safe to drive with the TCS light on if it appears when you are losing traction: it means the system is engaging. Driving without traction control can make your vehicle susceptible to spinning out and sliding around on the road... Driving with your TCS Light on can be dangerous.

Thanks for the explanation. Normally the light is off, so, if it starts snowing do you turn it "on" ??? That light has come on in conjunction with "cruise" light and that has been due to faulty O2 sensor, MAF etc.. Not because there is an issue with traction. I suspect once the tuner is finished his thing they will clear the code.

if it starts snowing do you turn it "on" ???

Haha - spot the Queenslander.

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Are the lights off now (post mechanic visit)?