That’s correct, psr v2, Perrin are supplied with an elbow fitting for the sump breather inlet return.
We didn’t have a butt joiner so that pipe was trimmed to suit the supplied elbow.
Luckily, the only photo I made on the day was of the proposed cut
You can see the sump breather return pipe is still attached at the other end to the three way joiner and the short pipe to the
sump breather port, adjacent/below/towards the passenger side of the compressor edit: the return to pcv on the rear of the inlet manifold...
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For installing the inlet, you’ll need a spring clamp compressor, or two long handle needle nose pliers: for the bov return hose.
I used a set of straight and 30’ nose pliers, the next week I found a proper spring clamp compressor tool at the market lol.
The angled tip pliers close the clamp, the straight pliers help to close the clamp on its lock.
Very important:
The other talent you’ll need is to understand that the inlet etc, can’t be forced into place on the compressor inlet.
Rather, you offer it up, reduce pressure and twist the inlet a little axially, and it should just jump into place:
This is very counterintuitive, if you get frustrated, walk away and have a cuppa, then try again.
We did not trim the end of the psr v2 inlet, it’s a fairly loose fit on the compressor inlet, meaning it will jump on if the angles are correct and there’s not too much force pushing and distorting it.
The tmic in your pics is an avo or the eBay knockoff.
It fits the stock engine cover with some trimming.
Some use draft sealer rubber to get a better fit/airflow.
If its the knockoff type, maybe pressure test it prior to install.
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As for the throttlebody hose, take time to clock it correctly compared to the stock tb hose.
Here’s a psr tb hose correctly clocked.
I use a paint pen to mark tdc on the intercooler end of the upgrade hose, offer it up to the throttlebody, and tighten the clamp with the hose correctly oriented, paint dot up.
I use oetiker stepless screw clamps from eg Aircraft Spruce, on this install we used Norma hose clamps with pressed teeth threads, not the holes type (which are only good till they slip and fail permanently).
In the pic, the upper end that drops down is the throttlebody end.
If you clock your hose clamps properly, they can both be tightened through gaps in the mess of pcv pipes, using 1/4” extensions.
From the front of the car, both clamps bolts would be pointing up at around the 4 o’clock position.
Its crucial for easy checking and maintenance...