Stock 2007 Liberty GT conversion to VF52 Plus...

[bigBADbenny]

Good point, forgot the dump aspect which makes a huge difference by itself!

For sure a vf52 can push past the capability of the stock fuel system.

This is a built engine with supporting mods, tuned by Warwick at GIR.

96AC1B39-D6EB-440D-8E85-3064D744F7AD.jpeg (104.17 KiB) Viewed 1348 times

[Stifull]

Had a good talk to Russell (Subievoultion) this afternoon and on his recommendation I have just bought a DM65c fuel pump detailed in link below..

My question is ....
What fuel FILTER do I need to fit the DW65C pump.. Is it going to use a stock fuel filter or something different??

Can someone please give me a suitable part number or a LINK to the correct filter to suit this new pump...

Russell assures me that stock injectors will be fine but said with the price of tunes being soo expensive, it would be a shame if the final result should suffer for the sake of replacing the stock fuel pump and a filter that is probably overdue for replacement anyway.. This is the pump I have bought ...

https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/Dea ... /LGT-04-09

On another note... The MAC arrived today.. It came complete with the vent/filter and I note, while thinking about Ben's suggestion to run it to the intake hose, that the brass connections provided were perfect size for vacuum hoses, they are way to small to go onto the outlet on the intake hose so I will be using the vent as it seems like 99% of MAC controllers use the vent.. If I can find a connection that has the same thread to fit the MAC and a compatible size to match the inlet hose outlet then I will do it the way Ben has suggested. I like the thought of any pollutants getting burnt off but it is such a tiny amount, I am not going to bother if getting a special fitting is too hard. So its up to SCA to decide what I will do..

[Stifull]

Found it.. The part number is Z717 ...RYCO...intank fuel filter. Also FS 18340 but not familiar with their quality. Sounds Japanese so it should be ok ..https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/15247427795 ... %3A2334524

[bigBADbenny]

Love it!
I’m due for a new pump so I’m stacking all the links & info on my thread

I did find some brass fittings at CBC bearings, iirc my local engineering shop Southern Bearings has em too.

[Stifull]

No worries Ben... Just small notes in a brown paper bag will be fine..
I'm slowly getting to the bottom of the "need one of these" list..
I have done a LOT of research about the UHU VF52 regarding the CFM (cubic feet per minute of air pumped at normally either 14 or 18lb. Almost all of the other VF turbos are in lists that you'll stumble across if you start looking for your CFM on a VF46 48 39 etc. I did the research when doing the same "one time goodies upgrade" on the 98 CSE2 WRX..
I discovered that the biggest air pumper is a VF22 at 490CFM .. so I got one of those in good condition for only $200.. They are also a bearing turbo rather than bush type. My daughter had a VF22 on her 2ltr WRX and it made 206 atw on 18lb (built engine with front mount with water sprayers on the bumper). Mine Rex is a 2.5 and it makes 180 on 16lb but the torque is awesome and there is NO lag on a 2.5. Daughters was like a 2 stroke. Nothing, nothing then whack and off you go..LOL..... Shame you can't get one as a straight swap for a Liberty.. Mighty car mods guys got a VF34 and moded it to fit a Liberty but I don't have the resources they have.. anyway... my question is does anyone know the CFM of a VF52 ????? Cheers.. Ben, I will be checking my letterbox..

This is me and my eldest daughter drag racing each other at Willowbank about 10 years ago.. She was not used to launching and I was being thoughtful of my glass gearbox but they both did well.. Mine was 14 flat. It's a little quicker these days.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giMSapCc2Pg

This is the Forester with the VF34.. Good results with stock IC ,intake pipes etc.. It's worth a watch..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HA___-ukpXI

[Stifull]

The MAC boost control solenoid arrived and it is ready to go on . I replaced the straight brass barb connectors with right angle ones so the hoses would be pointing directly at where they are supposed to go. I have decided to have the "vented" air going into the intake hose so I got a barbed connection that matches the size of the one already fitted to the new Kobe intake hose. I am using Anderson type plug. I also made up a bracket so the solenoid can be bolted onto the bracket that currently holds the stock solenoid. Should be tidy and look good once in place. I used thread sealing tape on the connections so I could face them where I wanted them and have them still be tight. Without the thread sealing tape you have no control of the direction they end up facing.

[Stifull]

Car had new plugs installed last week and twice since then at 6000+ rpm it has "pinged" . Car is still ok and all good. Not sure what caused it as it has never done it before. Three possibilities, dirty fuel (filled it with 98 2 days ago), also added a bottle of injector cleaner in it, that , apparently can lower octane levels and that will make it ping as well..
Whatever it is, I will just take it easy till the tune.

I also discovered that when it is tuned , if I ever intend to run 95 again, which it uses from the factory, I CAN'T get it tuned with a tank of 98.. And I must inform the tuner what fuel I intend to use. So my plan is get it tuned on 95.. It won't make the same power as 98 when running 95 and tuned at 95 but it will go a smidge better if i ever put 98 in it, which is what it has always been like.

Apparently the fuel pump and intank main filter will be here in the next couple of days.

Question ::: Is it ok to replace the fuel pump and filter as soon as they arrive. Fuel is controlled by ecu so I can't see a problem with that. There will just be more fuel available with higher pressure ready for the tune .... YES ????

In the mean time I need to do some driving around to get rid of the tank of 98 or syfon it out.

These are the plugs that came out. They've been in for 60kklm. I guessing because engine had a rebuild 60k ago.
I apologise for the pic quality, my phone's lens fell off and has a temp one..

[Yowie]

So my plan is get it tuned on 95.. It won't make the same power as 98 when running 95 and tuned at 95 but it will go a smidge better if i ever put 98 in it, which is what it has always been like.

Nooooooooooo!

Tune for 98. These cars are knock-limited, so why put pressure on the No1 limitation to more power when you are spending all this money & effort upgrading.

My wife's almost-stock Auto forester (2.5L with TD04 turbo) has have stuff-all done for power except 98 octane fuel and a "98 tune". It is now a lot more fun to drive and will get a driver out of a tight spot.

Question ::: Is it ok to replace the fuel pump and filter as soon as they arrive. Fuel is controlled by ecu so I can't see a problem with that. There will just be more fuel available with higher pressure ready for the tune .... YES ????

Until an expert answers that, my suggestion would be "just do it" and not drive the car much until the tune. A bit too rich in some parts of the map (perhaps including cold start) won't do much damage if you don't drive it much under those conditions.

also added a bottle of injector cleaner in it, that , apparently can lower octane levels and that will make it ping as well..
Whatever it is, I will just take it easy till the tune.

That hypothesis makes the most sense to me. As such, you might need to get through this tank of "injector cleaner" fuel and top-up again pre-tune. let me know if you want to borrow a 20L jerry can or two so you can drive around as long as possible on the current tank without putting yourself at risk of getting stuck somewhere.

[Stifull]

The fuel cap says "designed to run on 95" and it works well on 95. Occasionally when fuel is cheap, and i think those days a re gone, I will put in a tank of 98 and it runs a little better. Sometimes I will have 1/2 full of 98 and fill it with 95. If I get it tuned on 98 then I will always have to run it on 98 and sometimes that is a lot dearer than 95. Subieveo said to get it tuned on 95..Otherwise it will have issues when I use 95...Normally when fuel is cheap, I'll fill all the cars and when they get close to empty I will just use another, and then another so I rarely buy expensive fuel.

Thanks for the offer of jerry cans but I have at least 5-6 .. All empty ATM except spare 1 for the generator.

Yes I can see no reason why the pump can't be done..

[subyroo]

If I get it tuned on 98 then I will always have to run it on 98 and sometimes that is a lot dearer than 95.

Thank goodness Costco is close by to me, they have 98 at $1.497 cpl. Unfortunately they don't have 95 and I refuse to use that other crap with Ethanol.

Ran that E10 crap in my 2003 XS Forester from Wallangarra (Qld) to Tamworth (NSW) on a trip to Melbourne, it was the worst fuel I have ever used. The forester wouldn't even pull the skin off a rice custard on the hills. Thinking of passing another car, it was just that, a passing thought.
There were only 2 of us and 2 suitcases in the car, so it wasn't exactly loaded either.

[Stifull]

Can someone please provide a ling to the "torque specs" for installing the turbo eg...down pipe, top mount and up pipe please.. I believe the Top mount is 15lb.. I did use the "search" function but got way too many links to read and thought someone will know this straigh up.. Cheers..

[Yowie]

Can someone please provide a ling to the "torque specs" for installing the turbo eg...down pipe, top mount and up pipe please.. I believe the Top mount is 15lb..

I have the Gregorys repair manual for the equivalent year (2008ish?) WRX at home - it's a very useful source of torque specs, how-to, etc etc. for about 98% of the jobs on a same-generation Forester or (I assume) Liberty. I can check some specifics tonight if you like, but you're welcome to borrow the whole book for this upcoming bolt-on job if you like.

In terms of the top mount intercooler - go easy. The compressor housing has an alloy flange with delicate threads in it. The O-ring seal will keep compressed air in without resorting to ape-strength on the bolts & wrecking the threads. That "weak alloy threads" issue is why I switched to permanent studs sticking out of the compressor housing flange:

[bigBADbenny]

Its a good opportunity to recrimp the tabs on your stock tmic.
I use parallel pliers for that job

Need a link to the factory service manual PDF?

[Stifull]

Yes I will get those studs. I had to redo the thread in the compressor so studs will be the go. I may even put a locking nut on the back of that 1 studd .. If you can just let me know what the torque specs are for the 3 things that bolt to the turbo that will suffice .. I usually work on tight, really tight and not too tight..depending on app/pressure/materials etc. I am still a little anxious about all this so the more I know the better..

Ben I have an AVO/perrin type top mount intercooler...so I won't be using the stock one.

[Yowie]

Yeah, I use a lock nut on the underside of the flange with that stud setup. It will be a lot easier to install the lock nuts with the turbo off the car.

Per the Gregorys manual:

"Intercooler-to-turbo and left-side mounting bolt - 16Nm"

"Joint pipe-to-turbocharger nuts - 35Nm (non-STI) or 43Nm (Sti)" - I assume this is both exhaust sides of the turbo

"Oil inlet pipe banjo bolts
Upper Bolt 16Nm
Lower Bolt (earlier models) 30Nm
Lower bolt (later models) 20Nm"

Coolant Pipe Banjo bolts
2007 and earlier models 33Nm
2008 and later models 23Nm"

If you end up using the book, Chapter 4 seems right up your alley (exhaust, fuel pump, fuel filter, turbo, intercooler)