club.liberty.asn.au

Hi there, first time post.

My 2002 Subaru Liberty 2.5l starts then just dies.

I don't appear to have a fuel filter? In the engine bay there are two tiny inline filters that's all. I removed the fuel pump, and there is no filter on it? Is there a larger, inline filter somewhere under the car?

The fuel pump makes noise when I turn to ACC, i removed one of the fuel lines to the injectors and if i start the car fuel comes out so seems ok.

Its throwing a good spark off one of the ingnition leads if i put a screwdriver in there and test against a metal object. The battery is putting out 12 volts.

I've changed the air filter, and cleaned all the air flow sensors etc. (no MAF), but cleaned the other ones.

SO it has air, fuel and spark, but dies after about 3-5 seconds. Any help would be appreciated. Can pay if someone can come and help. I'm in reservoir Melbourne.

Check you immobiliser system.
BTW, the fuel filter is in the tank with the fuel pump.
On Gen3 it should be the metal canister associated with the fuel pump.
The filter is gold colour in this picture.

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Thanks for the Reply. How can i check the immobiliser? I have a workshop manual, will look through but if you have any trick let me know.

If it was this, would the car start then die? Or just would not start?

Is the fuel filter serviceable? Given there is fuel streaming out the fuel line when detached and ignition on, fuel system can be ruled out?

Cheers again.

aerthorn wrote:Is the fuel filter serviceable?

Buy a fuel filter?

The fuel filter is serviceable, but use the original metal canister if the new filter comes with one (I know Cooper filters do) as they seem to be a poor fit.

Check the electrical connector on both the fuel side and out side for any signs of burnt pins.

The fact that it fires then dies makes me also think it's an immobiliser issue.

Thanks RX25SE, i got the new one on ok, replaced the pump and filter. I think it may be a coil pack issue.

Ive removed it and tested with a multi meter, I get zero reading the primary resistance, perfect readings on secondary resistance (according to the service manual.) It mentions to replace if this is the case so will be doing that tomorrow. $150 from Repco so happy if that gets me on the road. Cheers for the help everyone, will post if it fixes it tomorrow.

Is it possible for a faulty coil pack to allow the car to start, but not run?

...re the fuel filter, by serviceable i just meant can i replace the filter, or if the whole assembly had to be replaced.

IIRC, the Gen 3 Factory Service Manual is incorrect.
Here is an excerpt from a later FSM

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The primary side of the coil pack contains the igniter circuit.
This is the solid state transistors that control the current through the coils.
As a result, the resistance of the primary side of the coil cannot be measured as indicated.

When you say you get ZERO reading on the primary side of the coil?
ZERO reading being open circuit and infinite resistance or ZERO reading being short circuit bs zero resistance?

A coil pack is made up of two haves servicing two cylinders at a time.
A coil pack usually would fail only on half the pack and operate on two cylinders.
The failure would not usually be associated with the position of the ignition key.

The coil pack takes its power from fuse F/B Fuse No.11

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The coil pack is triggered by outputs A25 and A26 of the ECU

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Hi,

I get 12.58 kOhm across the secondary resistance. and O.L (open loop) when testing the terminals on the plug socket which is supposed to measure primary resistance across pin 1 and 2 and 2 and 4?

DO you think i should replace it?

aerthorn wrote:How can i check the immobiliser? I have a workshop manual......

Please be using your manual?
If you have the FSM then have you checked the DTC from the ECU?

You can quickly check for DTC by following the procedure on page EN(H4SOw/oOBD)-24; 7. Read Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 2. WITHOUT SUBARU SELECT MONITOR

The list of DTC are listed on page EN(H4SOw/oOBD)-57 and 58

If there is an issue with the immobiliser the CEL will flash DTC Number 53.

Also, how many keys do you have? Have you played with the keys lately, like change the remote entry battery?
Have you tried the spare keys?
If the Transponder chip in your main key has an issue then the spare key may work?

Thanks for the help everyone.

In the interests of closing off this thread, it turned out to be the MAP sensor. Just got one delivered from BOSCH directly for $100, replaced the old one, started like new.

Good news!
How was it diagnosed?
By DTC or some other highly trained individual?