Turbo removal on a 2.5t 2007 liberty

[Boostme]

Hi i've been searching Hi an low for any info on turbo removal / how to don'ts on a 2.5 ej55 engine. anyone able to point me in the correct direction

regards

[Deep Heat]

Why do you want to remove the turbo?

If you're thinking of running it without a turbo it is going to drive like a dog.

[Boostme]

cause the turbo is blown

[bosc0]

I found loads of info just by googling.....

Such as....

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turbo-un-install-howto-pics-53391p2.html
or
(didn't read the whole thing because i know how to do it)

What you'll need
10mm socket, 12mm socket, 14m socket,
Long and short extensions
14mm wrench, 17mm wrench
Regular Screwdriver(normal size and a very long one as well)
Pliers
Jack stands!(Don't ever go under a car without them!)
Drain pan
Can of good penetrating spray(The Duralube stuff works very well, but Liquid Wrench, WD-40, etc. will all work)
1/2 gallon pre-mixed coolant minimum(Have a full gallon on hand)

Prep
GENEROUSLY spray the penetrating oil on just about every bolt you will loosen that is exposed to heat, especially the turbo and downpipe bolts. Spray the hell out of them and wait a while before trying to loosen them. If you do not want to spray all the bolts and nuts, you don't want to get the turbo off. Make sure you do this, it helps incredibly IMHO.

Remove Intercooler
Remove two bolts for intercooler brackets(12mm I beleive)
Remove three vacumn lines on the pipes connected to the I/C
Remove vacumn line and two bolts for BOV(do not disconnect BOV from return hose though)
Loosen throttle body/IC clamp( on the T/B side)
Loosen turbo/intercooler pipe clamp
Wiggle intercooler off
Remove left intercooler bracket(while facing car). Two 12mm bolts I believe.

Remove turbo heat shield
10mm bolts(maybe 5 or six). Feel around as there are a few hidden you will not be able to see, but can feel.

Unbolt exhaust
Unbolt downpipe from cat under car(14mm socket and wrench)
Unbolt downpipe from turbo(14mm socket and possibly small extension, and 14mm wrench for the two bolt/nuts). There are 5 nuts in all. Three on studs and two on bolts.

Remove water lines and oil feed tube
Put the drain pan under the car as you will loose coolant. Also, disconnect the boost control vacumn lines from the turbo outlet and wastegate actuator if you haven't done that already.

Many remove the turbo with the water lines still attached to the turbo. Probably easier providing you have no trouble getting the coolant hose off the bottom water line. If you do remove the water lines though, they're 17mm bolts. Don't loose the washers either. Oil line is a 14mm I believe(again, don't loose the washers).

Unbolt Turbo
There are three 14mm nuts. Make sure to look closely at the one in back of the turbo and make sure you loosen the turbo nut and not the nut for the up-pipe bracket right next to it

Loosen inlet pipe/turbo clamp
Unbolt small bolt holding the oil feed line to the turbo( 10mm)

Remove turbo

Just wiggle it around a bit and it should come right up. You will have to gently bend the oil feed line out of the way, but don't go nuts! Do not damage that line in any way.

When you pull it off, the oil return line hose will probably remain on the oil return pipe on the car, take it off and put it on the oil return line on the turbo. It's MUCH easier to get the turbo on with the oil return hose on the turbo.

Reinstall

It's basically a matter of doing things in reverse. The only major problem(and it's only major the first one or two times you do it), is getting the rotten oil return line hose back on. Here is what I do, but it's one of those things where each person will have there only little way of doing things.

Make sure the oil hose is only up to the "flanged" part on the return line on the turbo. And, make sure the top "sqeeze clip" ends are pointing towards the front of the car. The bottom sqeeze clip should be about half way up the hose and it's ends should point towards the rear of the car. Lube up the inside of the hose(the bottom edge) and the oil return pipe on the car.

You must get the turbo inlet in the inlet pipe the same time you are setting the turbo down. When lowering the turbo, keep an eye on the oil return hose as it comes down onto the pipe. The hose will want to pop in front of the pipe. It's helps sometimes to have a long screwdriver to push on the hose, so when you lower the turbo, it won't pop in front of the pipe. This is the hardest part of a turbo installation IMHO. It will go on, it just takes alot of time and patience. Once it goes on, make sure it goes down all the way and is not bent up and just looks like it went down.

Once it's on, you must get the bottom squeeze clip back down over the bottom of the hose. Stand on the passenger side fender of the car. With your left hand, reach down underneath the turbo and feel around for the squeeze clip. This is why this sqeeze clip ends should be pointing toward the back of the car, so you can grab it easier. Now, with a LONG regular screwdriver in your right hand slide it down through the space on the side of the turbo you were watching through to see the oil hose. Put the edge of the screwdriver on the clip. Now, squeezing the clip open with your left hand, gently push down on the clip with the screwdriver and it will slide down to the bottom of the hose. You will not be able to sqeeze the clip open AND push it down with your left hand. DON'T push to hard because if the clip falls off the bottom of the hose, you'll probably have to lift the turbo off to get it, and after the trouble you have getting the oil line on in the first place, you'll likely want to shoot yourself if you have to take it back off I also read a story of a guy who got everything back together and bolted up only to find a large puddle of oil under the car after starting it due to the oil hose not being on the pipe. At that point he probably looked for the nearest bridge Triple check that you have everything correct before going ahead.

With the exhaust off, the oil line is somwhat accessible from underneath the car, but personally, I find doing it from the top easier. However, you get a good view of everything from underneath the car, so when you think everything is on, have a look from down under.

If you have a buddy helping, he can get under the car and help guide the oil return hose on the return pipe. That may be of some help as well.

Tips

One tip when re-installing a turbo(especially a brand new one). Get oil up to the turbo before starting. To do this, I simply disconnect the crank and cam angle sensors, and have a buddy crank the car(it won't start). While he is cranking, watch inside the oil feed line for a stream of oil to shoot out. You will be amazed at just how long it takes for oil to get up to the turbo. If you do not do this, the car will start, causing the turbo to start spinning without oil for up to 7 or 8 seconds. Not good. It helps to have a rag under the oil line as well. When looking at the engine from the front of the car, look behind the top of the black plastic timing belt cover. You will see a sensor with a plug clipped into it. That is the cam sensor. Simply push in on the tap on the plug and pull up. It will pop right off. The crank angle sensor is right under the alternator and looks identical to the cam sensor, only it's in a horizontal position, not vertical. With your left hand, push down on the tab on the plug and with your right hand push the plug off the sensor. But, only push it far enough so that it is not plugged in electrically, and not totally off the sensor. This makes it much easier to put back on. You will hear and feel the plugs "click" back into place when they are reconnected.
Note: YOU WILL GET A "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT DUE TO TRYING TO START THE CAR WITH THE SENSORS OFF. DO NOT THINK THE "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT HAS SOMETHING TO DO WITH YOUR TURBO REMOVAL!After everything is plugged back in and you are finnished, simply disconnect the battery for a few minutes(maybe 10-15) and reconnect. That will take care of it.

You can also do it the clean way(or if you are by yourself) and hook everything up first(except the sensors) and just crank it for 10-15 seconds continuously. That should provide enough time for oil to get to the turbo and coat the inside pretty good.

Also when bolting up the exhaust, simply hang the downpipe on the turbo studs, but do not tighten them until you have the downpipe bolted to the cat. You will have to move the downpipe around quite a bit to get it to line up with the cat, so you need it flexible. However, do make sure the turbo is bolted down before you put the downpipe on, as you will not be able to access the back turbo bolt with the downpipe in place.

Also, when refilling the coolant tank, poor it in slowly to make sure you don't get air bubbles. It will probably take a half gallon easily. After it's filled, watch the bubbles come up to the sevice and when most have stopped, put the cap on. Make sure your plastic resivoir is filled as well. Keep a VERY close eye on your temp guage. Your heater should be to max heat as well. Check your oil to but you lose very little so it probably won't need any.

Leave the heat shield off to check for leaks around the turbo.

When tightening bolts such as the downpipe to turbo, tighten the bolts using a cross patteren like snug up a bottom nut, then a top nut, then a left nut, then a right nut, etc. to insure it is tightened evenly.

After install is complete, get a can of brake cleaner(parts cleaner) and spray it all over the turbo and around it to try and disperse some of the coolant and oil that may have gotten on everything. Even still, you will get quite a bit of smoke until everything burns off(will take a while), but spraying it with brake cleaner helps tremendously. Also, not sure if it's the brand of anti-seize I use or not, but that smokes worst of all and smells horrible. It only starts to smoke when it gets super hot like after you take the car for a drive and get into the boost for the first time. You can literally see the smoke curling off of the studs and nuts of the turbo. It will go away after a while though. But don't assume that it's just stuff burning off, always check numerous times for leaks for the next few days after the install.

Use anti-seize on just about everything to do with the exhaust(turbo nuts, downpipe nuts and bolts, exhaust nuts and bolts, heat shield bolts). You'll be happy you did the next time.

One last thing, be warned that if you are installing an aftermarket turbo with the stock intercooler pipes, the intercooler pipe may not want to fit over the new turbo's compressor outlet. A simple horizontal snip(maybe a half inch long) to the edge of the intercooler pipe will allow the end of the pipe to spread open enough to get it over the larger compressor outlet. Once it pops on, it closes right back up, it's just the initial task of trying to first get the pipe over the compressor outlet. Plus, the clamp will cover up the slit you made anyway. The slit is over the compressor outlet, so there is no chance of it leaking any boost. If it does, then you made the slit way too long!

Time-Totally depends but give yourself a few hours for sure the first time.

[Boostme]

it was the oil drain that was causing me so much trouble, I just pulled hard on it, and up she came

[dr20t]

it was the oil drain that was causing me so much trouble, I just pulled hard on it, and up she came

Good luck putting that back on

I honestly wanted to neck myself after doing it a few times

[Shaheenis]

I recommend using INOX on all the nuts before hand and leave for as long as possible. Also invest in a 14mm impact socket (the hex type) as they are stronger and will not round the nuts as some of the cheaper ones can. A good investment. Re-install with some copper anti-sieze to make it easier for the next one. Do not use any kind of loctite on these nuts.