Camber

[Gen5is]

What about camber in the rear wheels? Is there a way you could dial them out? I just installed coilovers and the rear squats and makes the wheel camber a lot more than stock.

[zch91]

For Gen4..

2 options

Minimal adjustment (+/- 1.25 degrees): http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_det ... ber=KCA399

Heaps of adjustment, very expi: http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_det ... ber=KTA124

I installed the cheaper ones on my lib for this exact reason. My car is quite low (tucking probably 5mm tyre in the rear) and it's at 1-1.5 degrees which isn't too bad.

Gen5.. Not familiar myself but this is all I could find on the whiteline website (+/- .75 degrees.. not gonna help you much)

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_det ... ber=KCA326

[beckers1330]

...Keep in mind your handling will be affected by changing the camber.

For the better

Your braking will as be affected, as less tyre is in contact with the road.

[shav]

Would you guys recommend maybe a 0.5-1deg camber adjustment and a 1-2mm toe in on a stock ride height Gen 4? (getting Perrin sways fitted shortly)

Looking for more responsive 'turn in' at speed.

[Robbks]

Would you guys recommend maybe a 0.5-1deg camber adjustment and a 1-2mm toe in on a stock ride height Gen 4? (getting Perrin sways fitted shortly)

Looking for more responsive 'turn in' at speed.

Here's my experience and thoughts
Gen4 with Stock Spec B Billies. and 20mm adjustable rear bar

1) Toe.
Toe-in does not make it turn in better. remember that more toe in is great for the outside wheel, but your inside wheel is also doing work against it when you first turn the wheel.
Toe-out actually increases initial turn in as it acts like a big anchor on the inside wheel, that is until the weight shifts to the outside wheel.
Personally, i've found the best balance in all my cars to be at 0deg toe for both front and rear. it's well balanced and low tyre wear.
on fast bumpy roads it does follow the undulations a little so you do need to actually drive the car

2) Camber
In my 99 Fozz and 94 Legacy which are the same chassis setup as GC8, I ran heaps of static front camber (-2deg) as they have bugger all caster.
this helps with mid-corner grip, as once the car rolls onto that outside tyre you've got maximum contact area on the outside tyre and it just hangs on.
In conjunction with zero toe, tyre wear isn't an issue
HOWEVER, I transferred this logic to the Gen4 and ran into a problem. Max camber is approx -1.5deg. OK so we'll just max it out at the same for both sides.. no worries mate.
PROBLEM, teh Gen4 chassis has MUCH more caster, which equated to a LOT more dynamic camber.
When driving around fast sweeping corners, the car would turn in great, but once the weight began to shift, it would turn very sharply for only a little more steering angle.
Great on the track, not so great on the road if you're just cruising, it will drag you into the oncoming lane (right turn) or stick a wheel in the gravel (left turn) very quickly.

So with the help from my aligner, we settled on about -0.8deg and still at 0 toe.
I've also fitted all new froint LCA bushes for a huge reduction in wandering and much better braking stability
It's now a very nice and pointy to drive, changes direction effortlessly, even with it's but wagon phat a$$, and just cruises effortlessly.
No signs of any abnormal tyre wear at all.

just my experiences

[shav]

Thanks for the tips Rob. Thats the kind of feedback I needed for these cars.

I used to have an AU2 falcon, Eibach springs, BOGE shocks, Whiteline F&R sways, Caster Camber kit fitted and -1.5 camber with 2mm toe in and it was perfect with very little to no wear, and predictable. Found it to be the best on this car.

Now that I have the Lib I gotta learn the goods with the bads with this car and what it can/cant handle all over again. Like you say, the dynamics of the car differs from car to car. I will certainly look into similar settings to yours mate.