club.liberty.asn.au

Soooo I'm driving back from Canberra after buying and putting on some new wheels.
My car has for some effing reason started to shut off all power while driving. The engine light is one and the cruise control light is flashing on and off.

I'm stopped at a servo now.... Need to drive back to Camden but

Any help/tips in the right direction greatly appreciated.

gloryboy wrote:Soooo I'm driving back from Canberra after buying and putting on some new wheels.
My car has for some effing reason started to shut off all power while driving. The engine light is one and the cruise control light is flashing on and off.

I'm stopped at a servo now.... Need to drive back to Camden but

Any help/tips in the right direction greatly appreciated.

The engine code and flashing cruise light (cruise wont be functional) means u have triggered a DTC (diagnostic trouble code). I have accidentally triggered them many times for various reasons and simply needs to be viewed and cleared (with a laptop). As to why this happened, it's tough to say. Others might be able to she'd light on what parameters may have been tripped. Maybe something to do with gearing? Did u go to a larger/smaller rim? Could something under ur bonnet be loose eg wiring to sensors? I dunno if a bad wheel alignment would cause a DTC

If u can't find anything I would imagine u could drive the car GENTLY to where u need to go as I doubt changing rims would cause a dangerous DTC. We're u giving it a boot-full when the code tripped? or when u started? Just driving? When I caused a code by leaving a sensor unplugged, even when I plugged it back in, the engine/cruise light remained until the codes were cleared with laptop/cable

turner_822 wrote:If u can't find anything I would imagine u could drive the car GENTLY to where u need to go as I doubt changing rims would cause a dangerous DTC. We're u giving it a boot-full when the code tripped? or when u started? Just driving?

Hey mate! Got back to Camden safely- I'm sure everyone was worried sick haha

I was just driving normally at 110km/h down the freeway. The wheels (which I bought from Mahtava are 18 inch which is only a 1 inch increase from my stock ones. If anything, the wheel alignment actually felt better driving home than when I had the 17's on.

I've been doing a bit of reading since I got home and have read this is a common problem for many members here.... Going to disconnect the battery/ecu tomorrow and see if that clears it. The other options I have read are getting a mechanic to clear the code, and/or check/replace the O2 sensor.
I've seen people talking about mods (DP for example) causing this issue. Some people have said it can be corrected with a re-tune... Unlucky for me, my stupid Hitachi ECU can't get tuned in the first place haha.

It was just dangerous as because my car lost all power and the power steering died too. All of the lights stayed on, just had no power whatsoever- lucky I was in the left lane and not the far right.

Haha yeah I had engine stall at high speed while doing logging (just fitted supercharger). Not much fun going fast with no steering or brakes lol. Glad ur sorted

turner_822 wrote:Haha yeah I had engine stall at high speed while doing logging (just fitted supercharger). Not much fun going fast with no steering or brakes lol. Glad ur sorted

Lol feck that. I disconnected the battery terminals for 15 minutes this morning. Don't think i reset the ECU completely (1 hour+turn to ignition for 10 seconds or whatever )The issue seems to have gone. Going to monitor if and when it happens again and how long in between.

Exhaust mods will throw the catalytic converter efficiency test CEL

KiDo_Tuning wrote:Exhaust mods will throw the catalytic converter efficiency test CEL

Hey mate! Check your PM's

turner_822 wrote:If u can't find anything I would imagine u could drive the car GENTLY to where u need to go as I doubt changing rims would cause a dangerous DTC. We're u giving it a boot-full when the code tripped? or when u started? Just driving? When I caused a code by leaving a sensor unplugged, even when I plugged it back in, the engine/cruise light remained until the codes were cleared with laptop/cable

Could overloading the power output from the battey cause this? I had my HU, amps, lights, fogs, and windscreen wipers on :s... Forgot to mention this earlier haha

gloryboy wrote:Could overloading the power output from the battey cause this? I had my HU, amps, lights, fogs, and windscreen wipers on :s... Forgot to mention this earlier haha

Not 100% but I doubt it. The thing that likely caused the code would be what u just changed but u never know. Easiest way is to ring around and find a local shop that can clear subaru error codes and tell you what it is if it happens again. Whole point of the codes is they tell u where the problem is so u don't have to stuff around guessing

gloryboy wrote:

turner_822 wrote:If u can't find anything I would imagine u could drive the car GENTLY to where u need to go as I doubt changing rims would cause a dangerous DTC. We're u giving it a boot-full when the code tripped? or when u started? Just driving? When I caused a code by leaving a sensor unplugged, even when I plugged it back in, the engine/cruise light remained until the codes were cleared with laptop/cable

Could overloading the power output from the battey cause this? I had my HU, amps, lights, fogs, and windscreen wipers on :s... Forgot to mention this earlier haha

Perhaps it could be the cause - I see in your sig you've got subs. I'm not really into audio so can't be specific, but I've seen cars with a couple of subs "blackout" when a decent bit of bass kicks in. No capacitors or something? Audio ppl??

Instead of posting a new thread, I'm going to put another question.

Feels like my damn wagon is falling to bits. I'm noticing a 'clicking' noise under the driver's foot-well when my car descends gears. It's more noticeable when driving in sports auto. I have noticed this since changing to new wheels, however, it may have been there prior and I've only noticed because of my car 'blacking out' of late..... However, I prefer driving in sports auto because the transition between 3rd & 4th sticks terribly, and will hang around 3500-4000 rpm unless I take my foot off the accelerator. Anyone have any suggestions on what may be causing either of these problems/ideas on how to correct these problems?
Cheers

Tough to say: noises are hard to understand unless your driving the car. I suggest you record the sound multiple times and load onto YouTube if it is really worrying you so others listen and tell you. I don't know much about auto's.

Just a tiny personal opinion that I experienced: "seek and you shall find" aka if you are looking for trouble u might start noticing normal operating noises u just didn't notice before. When I changed a few things I had a mental few days trying to find what turned out simply to be a louder click from new injectors (sounded so wired lol, like an inj leak)