DIY: Sound deadening doors + speaker fitting, some tips

Detailed descriptions of how to do things to your Liberty.

DIY: Sound deadening doors + speaker fitting, some tips

Postby teK-- » Sun Dec 20, 2009 4:53 pm

There are heaps of walk throughs on how to sound deaden doors, so I will only cover a few tips I have picked up along the way which I have not/rarely seen posted here and other sites.

1. Good preparation is the most important part, if you skimp to save time here you will have to redo everything and buy new sound deadening, when it starts peeling off everywhere. K&H wax and grease remover gets everything off easily with no water required and takes just a wipe with clean rag to take off the minimal residue.

2. You do not need to cover every square inch of every panel; we're not building a dam here. As long as you get at least 50 to 75% of the panel covered you are adding sufficient weight to the panel to stop it resonating at common frequencies. Spread the pieces of sound deadener apart if you are not covering much of the panel. I always ensure the area directly around where the speaker is, is well deadened since that is where the energy level is highest.

3. If you want to seal up your access holes, I have found the best thing to use is foam core sheet which is readily available from Riot Art. Cut it to size of openings, then fit it in place with some duct tape before laying the sound deadener on top. I have tried MDF before but it just soaks up water, swells then goes mouldy.

4. Sound deaden the inside of your door trim too; it is thin plastic which resonates even more easily than thin metal. The most important area is just above where the speaker is.

5. Use adhesive weather seal strips around the perimeter of baffles and speakers to ensure a good seal since most surfaces are not 100% flat. Allows easy speaker removal later, unlike gasket sealant (that sticky goop stuff)

6. After building many sets of baffles using MDF, ply, MDF coated in enamel etc; they have all soaked up water, swelled, then fallen apart. I have since started using plastic sheeting. Since it is not easy to buy unless you get in bulk huge sheets, I have found that plastic kitchen chopping boards are perfect. They are around 9mm thick and very easy to cut with a drill and jigsaw. $5.00 each from the Reject Shop.

With my speakers which are 59mm deep, using this sheet as a baffle I still have just over 5mm clearance before the door glass mechanism.

Use self tapping metal screws in this plastic sheet; the stainless steel type.

7. The tweeter in our cars is easy; just unscrew the hold one from the plastic mount then the new one is easily secured into it using a hot glue gun.

8. Use a rubber hand roller (also called "brayers") to press the sound deadener into the door otherwise you're gonna have really really sore thumbs if you do it all by hand. Also from Riot Art around $12.00 for the smallest one.

9. If you accidentally sound deaden over holes which the door clips fit into, don't just poke a hole through the sound deadener since the clip will then not sit flush against the door, and your trim will now have a gap in that area. Cut the deadener *around* the hole at least 5mm perimeter.

That's about all I can think of; if anyone else has any others post away :D
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Last edited by teK-- on Sun Nov 07, 2010 4:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Sound deadening doors + speaker fitting, some tips

Postby Adrian2627 » Sun Dec 20, 2009 6:26 pm

Good info Jim. I've just bought a new Kenwood HU and speakers/amps are next on the list so this will certainly com in handy.
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Re: Sound deadening doors + speaker fitting, some tips

Postby Jaz » Mon Dec 21, 2009 7:33 pm

Good place to buy dynamatt? Online?
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Re: Sound deadening doors + speaker fitting, some tips

Postby teK-- » Mon Dec 21, 2009 7:53 pm

http://www.fhrxstudios.com.au/

Free shipping Australia wide. I bought the Extreme Trunk Kit which had 5 sheets and was enough to do the outside and inside door skins plus inside of door trim, for both front doors and I still had about 3/4 of a sheet left over.
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Re: Sound deadening doors + speaker fitting, some tips

Postby birch_security » Mon Dec 21, 2009 8:47 pm

Jaz wrote:Good place to buy dynamatt? Online?

http://www.ryda.com.au/Car-Audio-Sound- ... -s/168.htm

A bit cheaper even with postage.

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Re: Sound deadening doors + speaker fitting, some tips

Postby teK-- » Mon Dec 21, 2009 9:00 pm

Hehe close, FHRX is $160.00 inc. free shipping. Ryda price is $1.15 cheaper but you still have to pay for shipping.
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Re: Sound deadening doors + speaker fitting, some tips

Postby Arith » Mon Dec 21, 2009 9:28 pm

Great write up Jim! Ok, when can you fly out to Sydney to do my car? :D

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Re: Sound deadening doors + speaker fitting, some tips

Postby teK-- » Mon Dec 21, 2009 9:58 pm

Any time after January 14th as long as you pay return airfares and accommodation :)
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Re: Sound deadening doors + speaker fitting, some tips

Postby smythie » Tue Dec 22, 2009 9:17 am

you might not like the accommodation...
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Re: Sound deadening doors + speaker fitting, some tips

Postby tangcla » Tue Dec 22, 2009 11:02 am

teK-- wrote:Free shipping Australia wide. I bought the Extreme Trunk Kit which had 5 sheets and was enough to do the outside and inside door skins plus inside of door trim, for both front doors and I still had about 3/4 of a sheet left over.

heh - with my car I ended up using 11.5 sheets :P all four doors, two layers solid, parcel shelf, and around the rear wheel arch behind the seat. :P
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Re: Sound deadening doors + speaker fitting, some tips

Postby teK-- » Tue Dec 22, 2009 11:31 am

Did you notice much difference doing your back doors? I have my balance faded 66% to the front speakers since still running stockies in the back, and they sound just fine as rear fill.

Also did you sort out that rattle in the center seatbelt casing? You should just shoot some expanding foam into there ;)

The wheel arches are very solid and I doubt that this type of sheet will do anything since the panel won't be resonating. If you are trying to block road noise from the wheels you need sound absorbing sheets such as the heavy carpet type. Dynamat extreme is just loaded sheet which adds weight but doesn't really do much for blocking noise.
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Re: Sound deadening doors + speaker fitting, some tips

Postby tangcla » Tue Dec 22, 2009 12:46 pm

teK-- wrote:Did you notice much difference doing your back doors? I have my balance faded 66% to the front speakers since still running stockies in the back, and they sound just fine as rear fill.

Yes when I had my head next to the speaker - in the car, a little bit better, it sounds good even with the sub channel disabled :)

teK-- wrote:Also did you sort out that rattle in the center seatbelt casing? You should just shoot some expanding foam into there ;)
No, haven't sorted it out. I didn't even notice it and had forgotten about it, until you just mentioned it now :angry2:

teK-- wrote:The wheel arches are very solid and I doubt that this type of sheet will do anything since the panel won't be resonating. If you are trying to block road noise from the wheels you need sound absorbing sheets such as the heavy carpet type. Dynamat extreme is just loaded sheet which adds weight but doesn't really do much for blocking noise.

Yeah... but it's on there now... :P
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Re: Sound deadening doors + speaker fitting, some tips

Postby teK-- » Tue Dec 22, 2009 2:33 pm

Just thought I'd let you know so you don't add any more dead weight to your car ;)
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Re: Sound deadening doors + speaker fitting, some tips

Postby hamish_023 » Thu Dec 24, 2009 9:16 am

whats the benifit of sealing access holes?
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Re: Sound deadening doors + speaker fitting, some tips

Postby teK-- » Thu Dec 24, 2009 10:11 am

Allows the door cavity to act more as a sealed chamber. Of course you will never get it fully airtight but it is a LOT better than having huge service holes gaping open. Better bass and mids from the speakers.
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