DIY: Upgrade miniscule battery for non-3.0 models

Detailed descriptions of how to do things to your Liberty.

DIY: Upgrade miniscule battery for non-3.0 models

Postby teK-- » Tue Aug 11, 2009 10:21 pm

I found the stock battery woefully undersized even though I haven't put a huge stereo in. Since the stockie was on its way out it was a good opportunity to upgrade.

Looking at the 3.0 they have a much larger battery, so I checked the parts and there are only a few things you need to buy to do the conversion:

- Subaru part #82122AG001 ($10.00) "Battery Pan"

- Generic 175mm Battery tiedowns (Kmart, I think the brand is Projecta or similar). $2.99

- If you wish to upgrade your ground cables to either 4GA or 2GA thickness, you will need about 70cm for each of the two ground cables, so 1.5 metres in total. Also get gold crimp terminals for them.

- Due to the stock battery having JIN-type posts (freaking tiny) you will need to upgrade to DIN battery terminals to suit the bigger battery's posts. I bought high quality solid brass ones from Ebay which are HEAPS cheaper than overpriced car audio brands: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DUAL-BATTERY-SYSTEM-TERMINALS-HEAVY-DUTY-FORGED-BRASS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em14Q2el1262QQhashZitem483705d377QQitemZ310160774007QQptZAUQ5fCarQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQQsalenotsupported

- Any battery that is listed as fitting into the 3.0. I chose the Exide Extra X55D23C which was $170.00 I have used this type of battery in my old car before and was really happy with its value for money. 3 years warranty compared to the 1year one on lesser models. CCA and RC ratings are about 50% higher than the stock battery.


1. Turn off any battery backup alarm sirens etc you may have.

2. Disconnect the battery, negative first, positive second. Unbolt the tiedowns and remove the battery from the car.

3. The old battery tray just comes straight out; fit the new one in its place making sure the arrow points towards the front of the car.

4. You must reuse the stock rear tiedown rod + nut due to its short length and hooking height. Use the new tiedown rod + wingnut at the front, and the new tiedown on top. Secure the battery. Don't worry about the front rod being too long; it does NOT hit the bonnet when you close it.

5. You will see that the factory positive terminal has two cables which can be separated from the battery post clamp by undoing one nut. Undo that nut so the two cables can be separated. Now cut off or bend off the little tabs which protrude from the right angle terminals on each of the two cables. (see photos in end result to see why you need to do this).

6. When you fit the positive terminal, you can now bolt down each of the two factory leads to each of the side bolts. (Remember you had to break off some of the tabs so they can sit flat on the terminal?).

7. I upgraded both the ground cables which run to the battery. One goes to the transmission, and the other to the pass. side strut tower just behind the fuse box. You need to undo some of the factory black taping to reveal part of the run. The former is about 6GA, and the latter looks like a tiny 10G or similar. I replaced the transmission ground cable with a 4GA cable, and the other one with a 2GA cable.

8. The new ground cables attach to the transmission and strut tower as per stock; when you connect the other ends to the new battery terminal one cable can go in the screwdown clamp and the other will have to go one of the side bolts using a ring terminal. Sand the area around the bolt hole on the strut tower to reveal bare metal; this will allow better connection to the cable terminal.

9. Dispose the old battery properly (take it to the local mechanics).

To come: I need to fabricate some type of a perspex cover or similar for the positive terminal as it is not good to have it exposed like that. The factory cover will not fit due to the width of the new terminal and cables.

Now enjoy much reduced cranking time on cold mornings and increased running time of any accessories with the engine off =). I have also installed a voltage meter in my spare DIN slot to keep an eye on the battery.
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Last edited by teK-- on Sun Nov 07, 2010 4:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: HOWTO: Upgrade miniscule battery for non-3.0 models

Postby Sentinel » Tue Aug 11, 2009 11:08 pm

Nice. Good write up mate! :good:
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Re: HOWTO: Upgrade miniscule battery for non-3.0 models

Postby adhar » Wed Aug 12, 2009 6:58 pm

Sentinel wrote:Nice. Good write up mate! :good:


+1 Good stuff. :D
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Re: HOWTO: Upgrade miniscule battery for non-3.0 models

Postby teK-- » Wed Aug 12, 2009 10:03 pm

Cheers, I'm always happy to share the modding spirit :D
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Re: HOWTO: Upgrade miniscule battery for non-3.0 models

Postby gorka » Mon Aug 17, 2009 9:41 pm

Thank you for help! That's will do me!
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Re: HOWTO: Upgrade miniscule battery for non-3.0 models

Postby CappZ » Mon Aug 17, 2009 10:53 pm

I would of liked to see this a few months back :(
I shall keep this in mine just in case though.
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Re: HOWTO: Upgrade miniscule battery for non-3.0 models

Postby Ric » Tue Aug 18, 2009 8:55 am

CappZ wrote:I would of liked to see this a few months back :(
I shall keep this in mine just in case though.

Did you replace yours with another small one?
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Re: HOWTO: Upgrade miniscule battery for non-3.0 models

Postby gorka » Tue Aug 18, 2009 8:01 pm

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Re: HOWTO: Upgrade miniscule battery for non-3.0 models

Postby teK-- » Tue Aug 18, 2009 9:10 pm

Nice find :D.

I also checked out Century-Yuasa and Bosch Gold at the time couldn't find anything better than the Exide in that price range. That Supercharge battery looks pretty good, 10% more CCA and RC than the Exide which can only be a good thing.

I've always wanted an Optima Yellow top but I must spread the budget amongst many mods ;)
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Re: HOWTO: Upgrade miniscule battery for non-3.0 models

Postby Drew » Tue Aug 18, 2009 10:18 pm

being a former employee of Exide, you've picked a good product...

I would be getting that cover over the positive post reasonably soon though - when I was a rep for Exide, I had to deal with 3-4 "warranty" claims where positive posts shorted on bonnets, causing 3x underbonnet fires, two resulting in totally lost cars...

would be interested to see the gauge you have mounted in car also... pure curiosity :)
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Re: HOWTO: Upgrade miniscule battery for non-3.0 models

Postby teK-- » Tue Aug 18, 2009 10:42 pm

Hey Drew, I don't envision problems with shorting out on the bonnet as there is already a substantial layer of insulation on the underside; I am more concerned with working and around the battery and accidentally shorting the battery to ground with a wrench or similar :P

Here's a pic of the gauge I installed in my spare DIN slot: Digital readout and also 3 colour status led for at-a-glance checking. It's really useful having a clock on it also which displays seconds, as I use it for when I'm warming the car up/down. There is green led backlighting for at night; it is great (I don't like bright glaring instruments in the car as it is a distraction)
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Re: HOWTO: Upgrade miniscule battery for non-3.0 models

Postby Drew » Wed Aug 19, 2009 9:28 am

not a bad looking meter... your call on covering the positive post of course...

a good DIY article too... :)
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Re: HOWTO: Upgrade miniscule battery for non-3.0 models

Postby teK-- » Wed Aug 19, 2009 10:21 am

Thanks mate. Agreed re covering the positive post I have already planned to do it but it's just working out a workable method/materials. I was just saying that shorting out on the bonnet is low on my risk assessment :)

Considering either perspex sheet or for an easier job, some type of thermoplastic (PEGT or something I think it's called) which can be bent without heating. Do you have any ideas?
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Re: HOWTO: Upgrade miniscule battery for non-3.0 models

Postby smythie » Wed Aug 19, 2009 10:27 am

Drew wrote:being a former employee of Exide, you've picked a good product...
hehe, a good friend of mine does the sales for western NSW (well at least he did the last time I spoke to him). I've also had reason to deal with Exide in Sydney from time to time about their batteries on the Millenium Trains :D
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Re: HOWTO: Upgrade miniscule battery for non-3.0 models

Postby Drew » Wed Aug 19, 2009 10:33 am

teK-- wrote:Considering either perspex sheet or for an easier job, some type of thermoplastic (PEGT or something I think it's called) which can be bent without heating. Do you have any ideas?


I'd go the PEGT or even some of polypropylene they make marine fuel tanks from if you can get your hands on some of that...

I'm thinking if you went to Bursons or Repco, they'd have no idea what you're trying to do, so don't know that they would be able to help, and most Audio shops dont care about positive post insulation when they change terminals in my experience, so wouldn't bother with an audio shop unless you know a very good one...
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