Removing Intake Resonator Walkthrough with pics

Detailed descriptions of how to do things to your Liberty.

Removing Intake Resonator Walkthrough with pics

Postby smythie » Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:57 am

After a couple of calls last night for some pictures for a walkthrough of removing the resonator from the airbox (and realising I was barking up the wrong tree yesterday) I decided to head out to the car with the compact digicam and N70 this morning. WTF use an N70 you ask? Well the digicam was only a 4 or 5 year old Pentax and besides, the N70 outperformed the Pentax in a number of shots :shock:

First up you will need some tools. These are all the tools I brought (minus the tool manning the camera).

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These are the tools I actually used

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The sockets are 10mm and 8mm. The extension bars are 3” and 6” wobble bars – very handy for this job. I also have a 3/8”-1/2” adapter there – your mileage may vary. The 10 is for the nuts on the front airbox half and the 8 for the hose clamps. You may decided to use the blade screwdriver for the hose clamps – I found the socket so much easier and faster – the hose clamps are the only reason you may need the blade screw driver. The Phillips screwdriver was only used for the screw plug clamps on the intake duct and engine cover and the pliers for the air flow meter cable plug clamp

The driver’s side front quarter of the 3RB’s engine bay where just about all of the work will occur

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First step is to remove the screw plug clamps on the intake air duct.

There is this on the left as you look at it and another on the right. Twist with the Phillips screwdriver then lift out

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Your airbox will then look like this

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Next, remove the engine cover. We’ve all done this before right? There are a couple of screw plug clamps at the rear of the cover. Twist and lift these two out then lift the engine cover off from the rear.

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In no particular order, remove the connector tube and unclip the airbox half clamps.

Airbox half clamps released:

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Connector tube hose clamp at the AFM

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Loosen this off using either the blade or 8mm socket (hint: the socket is sh!tloads quicker :wink: ). Then pull the hose off the AFM outlet. (Note I hadn’t taken the engine cover off yet in this picture)

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Connector tube at the intake chamber

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Connector tube removed

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Before you can push the rear half of the airbox out of the way, I suggest popping off the clamp plug which holds the AFM cable onto the rear half. No need to remove the plug off the AFM

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You’ll need the pliers to gently squeeze this plug and push it off the airbox

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With the plug off the airbox rear half, the rear half can be pushed back out of the way

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And the air filter removed

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The airbox front half with filter removed

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To remove this you then need to remove the two bolts at the bottom of the airbox. The rear bolt:

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The forward bolt

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Then the nut inside the front half at the top corner (RHS in the shot)

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These are all 10mm. The two bottom bolts required both extensions – the wobbles making an otherwise awkward task a lot easier. The nut inside the box required just the 3” extension


With these removed you can then lift the airbox half and resonator out of the engine bay.

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Removing the resonator off the airbox half entails twisting and lifting the screw plug clamp (white in the above photo) then twisting the resonator under the airbox and pulling off.

Installation is pretty much the reverse of the above with a couple of notes:
1. Make sure you get everything back in place. Including the power steering hose in the mount on the rear airbox half

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2. Installing the engine cover I found needed a little trick. The cover is mounted at the front on this bracket above the belt

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The best way I have found is to stick your head under the rear of the cover to sight the cover on the mounts

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Everything back together, I’m off for a drive in a bit to see what it sounds like
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Postby smythie » Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:58 am

Reserved for differences with the 2.5GT
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Postby Spec B Wgn » Tue Dec 30, 2008 12:52 pm

fantastic post mate....really good detail and info

so how does it sound ??
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Postby BLKGTB » Tue Dec 30, 2008 12:55 pm

Anyone have a panel filter for a 07 GT in stock in melbourne ?
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Postby Resonate » Tue Dec 30, 2008 2:25 pm

Well done smythie. :ok:

This question always pops up once in a while so it's good to finally have a decent walk through posted.
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Postby Arith » Tue Dec 30, 2008 2:45 pm

BLKGTB wrote:Anyone have a panel filter for a 07 GT in stock in melbourne ?

Dude, we can see that you signed up to look for spare parts but there's no need to hijack someone else's post. There's a section called "Wanted To Buy" available for that.

Well done, Tony! Great job on the photos and walkthrough instructions! :good:

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Postby smythie » Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:03 pm

Spec B Wgn wrote:so how does it sound ??


Only really noticeable once the throttle is opened a bit. Cruising along you wouldn't know. When up it regardless of gear the sound is more of an acoustic sound rather than the mechanical sound of the engine before hand. Very noticeable above ~4k rpm both accelerating and engine braking.

Think I'll keep it for a while
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Postby sinist4 » Wed Dec 31, 2008 9:33 am

smythie wrote:
Spec B Wgn wrote:so how does it sound ??


Only really noticeable once the throttle is opened a bit. Cruising along you wouldn't know. When up it regardless of gear the sound is more of an acoustic sound rather than the mechanical sound of the engine before hand. Very noticeable above ~4k rpm both accelerating and engine braking.

Think I'll keep it for a while



nothing like a freebie is there, hahaha
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Postby coyote » Wed Dec 31, 2008 10:10 am

Is there a chance the engine is now sucking in hot, engine bay air ... or can you easily blank that off to ensure it only gets cool air from either the factory ducting or inside the guard?

I would do this to increase potential cool air into the engine, but not at the risk of increasing intake temps.
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Postby smythie » Wed Dec 31, 2008 10:35 am

There is a chance, yes. How much hot air it is sucking in I couldn't tell you but I don't think it would all that much. You could certainly blank it off - would be as hard as running a number of runs of insulation/gaffer/100mph tape over the hole. The intake suction won't be enough to pull that through - particularly the wider stuff
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Postby coyote » Wed Dec 31, 2008 8:46 pm

smythie wrote:I don't think it would all that much.


Maybe not on an NA, but underbonnet on a turbo can be like a furnace.

Not only is the hot air robbing you of power because it is less dense, but the ecu will step in and retard timing when intake temps rise also.

Then again, lots of people drive around with unshielded pod filters and don't seem to mind the resultant reduction in power.
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Postby overl0ad » Wed Dec 31, 2008 10:02 pm

the milk bottle on my NA and GTB are white...
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Postby smythie » Thu Jan 01, 2009 7:38 am

so was bjj's. Maybe mine's special

As for sucking in hot air, like I said, tape it off if it bothers you. Either the hole in the box or the gap around the airbox
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Postby senator » Thu Jan 01, 2009 6:52 pm

does this mean your car is no longer stock?????????????? :lol:
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Postby Arith » Fri Jan 02, 2009 2:47 pm

senator wrote:does this mean your car is no longer stock?????????????? :lol:

Oh! Good point, senator. I can see the headlines now:

Extra! Extra! Vanilla Boy On The Verge of Getting Excommunicated From Team Vanilla Dabbling In First Mod

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