DIY: Front Lower Control Arm - Rear bush install

Detailed descriptions of how to do things to your Liberty.

Re: DIY: Front Lower Control Arm - Rear bush install

Postby BillyCorgi » Mon Oct 12, 2015 10:04 am

Hoping that you can follow this.....

The Whiteline kit lowers the vertical position of the centre of the rear bush pivot point.
(This can be seen in the last picture under section 21. of the first post)
This changes the angle in the side view between the Front Lower Control Arm Bush through the (new) Rear Lower Control Arm Bush.
This changes the position of the pitch centre of the car altering the relationship between the centre-of-mass of the car and the pitch centre.

During hard acceleration or hard braking (sudden changes in the car's momentum) the body will tilt forward or backward, depending upon the geometrical relationship between the centre-of-gravity and the pitch centre.

In the case of Anti-Lift for the front suspension, the desired effect is to create forces that tend to stabilise the car during high acceleration and high braking forces.
Easy, isn't it? :D
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Re: DIY: Front Lower Control Arm - Rear bush install

Postby JaffaSIX » Tue Oct 13, 2015 9:02 am

So Its called an anti lift kit because it helps stop large amounts of lift/tilt under acceleration or braking?

about right?
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Re: DIY: Front Lower Control Arm - Rear bush install

Postby JaffaSIX » Tue Oct 13, 2015 10:17 am

DownUnder wrote:Difficulty (1-10): 3

Hey everyone,

I did this a few months ago but have finally gotten around to making a thread about it.

From what I've read, liberty's have a pretty common fault of the front LCA rear bushing wearing out. My car was giving me some noise so I decided to get underneath and check it out. What you're looking for is splitting and tearing or cracks in the bush. This is normally enough to slightly affect your handling and give you some noise.

It is highly recommended that when you purchase a replacement bush you go for one that adds caster correction (AKA anti-lift kit) as it improves your steering geometry. You can read more about this here: http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles/Ef ... 0ALK_b.pdf

If you're going aftermarket it's very likely that your bushes will be polyurethane. There is a bit of a debate with mechanics about rubber vs polyurethane as stock rubber tends to not need greasing. Unfortunately rubber breaks down due to ozone but it tends to give less NVH(noise vibration harshness) compared to polyurethane. I've consulted a few people about replacing the front bush at the same time as the rear but they recommend against it as the front provides a great ride and doesn't take the forces that the rear takes meaning it is very unlikely to be worn out.

Now to the gritty stuff.
Here is a Whiteline ALK. This is what I chose to replace my bushings with but the method should be pretty universal.
I purchased it from MRT's ebay store as it was a fair bit cheaper than buying it direct from whiteline: http://stores.ebay.com.au/MRT-Performance-Online
Image

1. Jack up the front of your car and put it on jackstands. You need to do both sides to relieve tension on the swaybar.

2. Remove both the front wheels. You should now be faced with a sight like this. I have highlighted the bolts that need undoing and the order of removal.(red) I have also highlighted the bush we are replacing(yellow)
Image

3. first unbolt the swaybar link. You have a choice of unbolting it from the bar or the arm. I chose the arm as it leaves less clutter when the new bush is being installed. swing the link out of the way
Image

4.Unbolt the front bush and remove the bolt.
Image

5. Unbolt the rear bush and the unbolt the two bolts holding on the retaining plate.
Image
Image

6. The arm should now be hanging down from the ball joint. Get behind the hub and remove the bolt that holds the ball joint in. Note: do not remove the split pin and castle nut. You are just making things hard for yourself.
Image

7. Swing the arm from side to side and push and wiggle and eventually the steering knuckle will let go on the ball joint. Try to get on an angle where you can see if it's coming out straight or not and it's quite hard to move crooked. Don't be afraid to hit on the arm with a mallet or hammer (within reason. No going hulk. It will come with relative ease)
Image

You now have a released arm!
8. You can take it to a mechanic or a mate with a press and get them to press out the old bush and press in the new but that won't save you maximum $$ Skip the next four steps if you do.
Image

9. Remove the rubber 'core' of the bush. I did this using a variety of hammer and screwdrivers. If you want to do it the quick way melt it out with a gas torch (captain planet will be sad)
Image
Image

10. Here's maybe the hardest bit of the whole process. Get a hacksaw and remove the blade. Run it through the centre of the bush and reattach to the hacksaw. Now CAREFULLY start sawing through the steel "sleeve" that is the bush outer. Regularly check your depth to make sure you're not cutting into the outer casing.
(refer to above pic. You can see a line between the bush and the arm)

11. Using a screwdriver, chisel or cold chisel try to "crease" the bush outer along your cuts. If they're deep enough they will gradually separate from the outer. If it seems impossible you probably haven't cut deep enough yet.
Image
Image

12. Clean up the press surface (the surface you just revealed) with a bit of sandpaper (80-120g) Make sure it is free of any burrs and defects but don't go too crazy.
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13. The bush is now ready to be pressed in. If you don't have a press take it to a local workshop with your new bushes. If they ask for more than $15 I would go elsewhere as that's a serious rip. Most mates should do it for a 6-pack ;) (Most people don't but some do. Maybe a friend?)
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14. This is what the bush should look like installed. Almost ready to go back on the car. (note: the arms are marked L and R)
Image

15. Grease that sucker up! If you have a whiteline kit like me and it came with grease make sure you use a fair bit of it. Whiteline didn't give you all that grease just to put a light film on. It's at this stage that I would make the outside of the steel insert with a permanent marker so you can reference it later. Make sure you grease all the contact surfaces. (Metal to poly, poly to poly)
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16. Slide the sleeve into the bush making sure it lines up like the whiteline diagram
Image

17. Get back under the car and slip that balljoint back in. Make sure it's straight as it goes in easier. You may need to tap the bottom nut with a hammer to make sure it goes all the way in then slip the bolt in the hold it there. (do it up most of the threads but don't tighten it fully.) The head of the bolt faces the front of the vehicle if you don't remember.
Image

18. now slip the front bush into it's position. This may take a bit of wrestling but it'll get there. Slip the bolt through and put the nut on a couple of threads but DO NOT tighten it. This will cause the bushing to fail.
Image

19. Slip your new rear bushing over the stud. You won't be able to get it all the way up the stud as it's lower compliance compared to the old bushing. Push up on it enough that you can get the washer and nut on there. (usually a couple of threads is all that's possible) We'll worry about the plate later.
Image
Image


20. This step can only be done with a trolley jack. DO NOT attempt this with a scissor jack as there is a high risk on injury. Place the cup of the jack under the castle nut of the ball joint. Jack up until you see the car JUST lift from the jackstand. This literally only needs to be a millimetre or two. Just so you can see a slight gap.
Image
Image

21. Tighten the nut on the rear bush up. (don't do it tight, just enough to move the bush up the stud) Then loosen it right up. Don't worry the suspension is not going to fly off at you. Still, do so with care. Place the plate over the stud and chuck that nut back on. Then through the two bolts that hold the plate to the body in.
Image
Image

22. Adjust your sleeve so the mark you made before faces the outside of the car. I found an allen key to be an appropriate adjustment tool.
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23. Tighten all the suspension components. Ball joint to 50Nm, Front bush to 95Nm, rear bush to 110Nm and the the bolts holding the rear plate to the body 150Nm. Note: These must be tightened with the suspension "loaded" hence why it's jacked up.
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24. Release the jack.

25. Re-install the swaybar link. Tighten this to 45Nm note: The swaybar must be above the LCA before you reinstall it. I found this out the hard way.
Image

Re-install your wheel and you're done! You've just replaced/upgraded your front LCA rear bushes. Don't forget to get an alignment!

Image
Happy Driving.


Hey I've followed the link that you posted on ebay, I'm wondering which kit I need?
According to the ones online they are only suitable for Outback, Forester and Impreza. :?:

Can you point me in the right direction please?
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Re: DIY: Front Lower Control Arm - Rear bush install

Postby HardwareBoB » Tue Oct 13, 2015 11:56 am

liberty is the same as outback in this case - also holy crap there's no need to quote a massive picture post! :)
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Re: DIY: Front Lower Control Arm - Rear bush install

Postby JaffaSIX » Wed Oct 14, 2015 9:03 am

Lol, Yeah my bad :)

Well the full story is I've had a long 2 months and I was driving home and blacked out/fell asleep and went up a kerb.
It ripped the rear control arm bushes and took out the tyre. I've done 2 wheel alignments now and not one of them realised that the bush was toast.
I was wondering if its worth doing the ball joints at the same time? ( the L/H one has a rip in the bush)

If so are there any benefits to going aftermarket? or any good aftermarket ones to go for?
Regards
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Re: DIY: Front Lower Control Arm - Rear bush install

Postby BillyCorgi » Wed Oct 14, 2015 9:31 am

I had rips in the rubber boots of my ball joints.
Replaced them just in case. Mr Rego-Man would have only knocked it back next rego-check.
Got the from FEBEST in Melbourne. http://febest.com.au/
They have all the suspension rubbers as well, including the rear lower bush you are looking for.
http://febest.com.au/BALL_JOINT/0820-B13
http://febest.com.au/REAR_ARM_BUSHING_FRONT_ARM/SAB-017
Very good prices.
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Re: DIY: Front Lower Control Arm - Rear bush install

Postby JaffaSIX » Wed Oct 14, 2015 10:07 am

I ordered the whiteline Anti castor kit, should get it today.
Are there any difference with the ball joints or are they all the same?
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Re: DIY: Front Lower Control Arm - Rear bush install

Postby BillyCorgi » Wed Oct 14, 2015 10:27 am

Functionally the same.
Put a pair on my 3.0R-B and another pair went on Junior's MY02 Outback.
No Problems, just a little tight to fit for the first time.
They come with 17mm A/F nuts and I reused the original 19mm A/F nuts, because I liked the idea of the greater surface area.
Get your Short Shift Adaptor viewtopic.php?f=68&t=30525
Get your Gear Shift Rejuvenation Kit viewtopic.php?f=68&t=31240
Get your Centre Differential Rebuild viewtopic.php?f=6&t=31089
Want a custom built Brake Cylinder Stopper? viewtopic.php?f=6&t=31321
Need to hire a Guard Rolling Machine? viewtopic.php?f=6&t=31899
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Re: DIY: Front Lower Control Arm - Rear bush install

Postby JaffaSIX » Wed Oct 14, 2015 1:36 pm

BillyCorgi wrote:Functionally the same.
Put a pair on my 3.0R-B and another pair went on Junior's MY02 Outback.
No Problems, just a little tight to fit for the first time.
They come with 17mm A/F nuts and I reused the original 19mm A/F nuts, because I liked the idea of the greater surface area.



How are you finding your Liberty on E85?
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Re: DIY: Front Lower Control Arm - Rear bush install

Postby BillyCorgi » Wed Oct 14, 2015 1:45 pm

JaffaSIX wrote:
How are you finding your Liberty on E85?


John Lennon would say "It is there in the Garage each morning" LOL
Really, Love it!
Smells like a party each time you start it in the morning. Great midrange acceleration.
EFlex is obtainable at good prices close to home.
If you have a car that requires 98RON then EFlex is a great alternative and a cost neutral performance improvement.
Last edited by BillyCorgi on Wed Oct 14, 2015 1:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Get your Short Shift Adaptor viewtopic.php?f=68&t=30525
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Re: DIY: Front Lower Control Arm - Rear bush install

Postby JaffaSIX » Wed Oct 14, 2015 1:51 pm

BillyCorgi wrote:
JaffaSIX wrote:
How are you finding your Liberty on E85?



John Lennon would say "It is there in the Garage each morning" LOL


LOL, In other words, what do you think of the E85?
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Re: DIY: Front Lower Control Arm - Rear bush install

Postby BillyCorgi » Wed Oct 14, 2015 1:57 pm

See above,
We have both been on-line at the same time.
IMHO, For the H6 engine, you do not need to go the higher cost extravagance of United E85 race fuel.
Get your Short Shift Adaptor viewtopic.php?f=68&t=30525
Get your Gear Shift Rejuvenation Kit viewtopic.php?f=68&t=31240
Get your Centre Differential Rebuild viewtopic.php?f=6&t=31089
Want a custom built Brake Cylinder Stopper? viewtopic.php?f=6&t=31321
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Re: DIY: Front Lower Control Arm - Rear bush install

Postby jp928 » Wed Dec 23, 2015 2:05 pm

If I stick with std bush here, is 20204-AG011 the part I need ? 08 gtb 6mt wagon .

tks
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Re: DIY: Front Lower Control Arm - Rear bush install

Postby BillyCorgi » Wed Dec 23, 2015 2:38 pm

Get your Short Shift Adaptor viewtopic.php?f=68&t=30525
Get your Gear Shift Rejuvenation Kit viewtopic.php?f=68&t=31240
Get your Centre Differential Rebuild viewtopic.php?f=6&t=31089
Want a custom built Brake Cylinder Stopper? viewtopic.php?f=6&t=31321
Need to hire a Guard Rolling Machine? viewtopic.php?f=6&t=31899
Get your BillyCorgi's "Not-4-Wimps" Chilli Sauce
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Re: DIY: Front Lower Control Arm - Rear bush install

Postby bigBADbenny » Wed Dec 23, 2015 2:53 pm

I have several spare sets of stock front control arms with ball joints and bushes if anyone needs minimal downtime. :)
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