[How-To] Subwoofer Install - Updated

Detailed descriptions of how to do things to your Liberty.

[How-To] Subwoofer Install - Updated

Postby Viper » Mon Jun 11, 2012 5:52 am

With my second stock subwoofer being destroyed, I figured it was time to do an upgrade.

After some brief research, I decided to settle for a Polk Audio MM840 SVC woofer. These units are typically used to replace the 8" Falkadore's locally and should also function ok when driven by the stock amp, yet provide good drive when/if amp upgrades are to take place. Along with the subwoofer upgrade, I figured I might aswell Dynamat the parcel shelf while it was all apart.

So here's how its done. It should take 3-4 hours from start to finish if you take your time and don't rush.

Skill Level : Minimal
Effort: Medium
Street Cred.: High
Benefit: High

Tools required:
-Stubby Philips head screw driver (for stock subwoofer)
-Various flat-heat sized screwdrivers
-10mm and 12mm sockets
-Hex keys for new subwoofer bolts
-Knife/scissors for dynamat cutting
-Wire crimping tool and side cutters
-Beer


Take your new sub and matting like so;
Image

And install in into the back of this;
Image

First up, the rear seat needs to be removed. This is done quite easily by lifting the seat up by the clips which secure it to the chassis. There are two, located directly behind each font seat. Just pull them up and the seat will unlock.
Image

With both unlocked, the seat will slide out.
Image

Next up, to remove the backrest, there are four bolts which hold the bottom onto the chassis. Just simply unbolt them in any order.
Image

To remove the backrest you will need to left the entire structure up towards the roof by ~4cm. There are three hooks on the uprights which the backrest hooks into. Please make sure you fold-down the centre arm rest + peek hole as otherwise it will jam. You can see this hook when the cavity is exposed.
Image

Next, the C-Pillar covers and plastics. The covers will unclip easily, with the exception for the metal clip which will hold on for dear life. Do not force this as it will warp the covers. Instead take a small flat-head screwdriver and push the tab inwards. This requires some gentle care. One unclipped, the cover will slide out.
Image

Once both panels are out, you should have something like this. Take a break, have a beer.
Image

To remove the plastics, there are four bolts. Three can easily by seen, the forth is hidden under the 'SRS Airbag' tab. It comes out quite easily exposing the forth bolt. Once all are out, the plastic will unclip.
Image

Now with the rear shelf cover exposed, to remove it, lift the three tabs out using a large flat-head screwdriver. Please take care as these can easily rip though the cover.
Image

The cover will now slide down, exposing the rear shelf, subwoofer and wiring looms (Subwoofer audio cable and power for the boot light). Remove the subwoofer and have another drink.
Image

Here we have the stock and replacement woofers side by side. Quite a large difference ;p
Image

Yep, same from this angle too
Image

And here
Image

So, at this point you can take two options to wire the new sub in.
1). Re-pin the stock wiring to utilise the stock connector (this is what I did).
2). Cut off the wiring from the old subwoofer and use that (much easier).
Option 1). is harder, and probably doesn't give much benefit, other than the fact you have more surface area in the clips on the subwoofer.
Image

With the 'wiring' done, move back into the car and clean the shelf, removing the clips which hold the two looms down. Scrape off the remaining padding until you are happy.
Image

With that all done, you can move onto the Dynamat. Again, there are two ways you can approach this. Cut and stick small sections (quick, easy, but messy and envolving), or you can cut some templates out of cardboard and transfer those to the Dynamat sheeting. I opted for the second option, as A). it seemed the logical choice, B). is probably quicker.
So, take apart the box your woofer came in, and some scissors and start cutting.
Image

Once done, take the template, trace it out and cut. (Note: If you make the left side first, you can reverse it to make the right side - Please cut extra holes for the ground points on the right)
Image

To install, peel the first 5cm as this makes application much easier
Image

Then apply from the back to the front moulding the matting to the shape of the shelf.
Image

Rinse and repeat for the right and centre. Once done, have another drink.
Image

Clip the looms back in, cut in the require holes for the wiring and you are almost done.
Image

Install the subwoofer, making sure you check the depth of the woofer. For the MM840 I used the provided 3mm spacer to ensure clearance (see below pics).
Image

Now replace everything in the reverse order as above.

As the woofer is substantially larger, the clearance to the torsion beams for the boot is quite close, but enough.

Boot Open;
Image

Side On (~8mm clearance);
Image

Boot Closed (~3mm clearance);
Image

And you are done. Enjoy the remaining beer and revel in the fact you have done something on your car without getting too dirty or too many cuts on your hands.

On a side note, my opinions the Polk MM840;
-I'm currently driving it on +5/+6 Bass (old setting for stock was +4/+5)
-It is not as punchy as the stock woofer, obviously as it is under-driven (as this is quite noticeable)
-However there is more bass overall and in hard drum+bass is really comes into it's own
-Bass is much clearer and blends in nicely with the stock tweaters/speakers
-Overall I'm quite happy with the result and would recommend the upgrade

Enjoy!
VPR

-------------------------------------
Update 21/12/12

So, it seems with the default spacer provided with the Sub, there is abit of tightness with the boot torsion bars.
Image


So to help with data I quickly cadded up a 5.5mm spacer and printed it out with my 3D printer (on a side note I love these things).
The spacer is designed to sit the sub 5.5mm higher on the shelf and sit between the rubber/foam padding and the shelf itself.
Image

Image

Total additional spacing will be ~11.6mm, so around 10mm once tightened.
Image

Image

The sub sits obviously abit higher on the shelf, however doesn't interfere with the cover once placed ontop. (Note, I pulled off the padding around the sub on the cover and stuck it to rear shelf, but neglected to show it here).
Image

And finally, the important part;
Image

Much better :D
The additional 5.5mm really helps and give a good 4-5mm clearance from the bars, meaning no binding, cracking or random noises when opening the boot.
If people want I could probably print a few spacers out and send them for a small fee.

Anyway, now with the above mod, I heavily suggest having a read of this;
Last edited by Viper on Thu Jun 04, 2015 2:13 pm, edited 5 times in total.
Viper
 
Posts: 145
Joined: Thu Jan 21, 2010 10:39 am
Location: Melbourne
Car: MY06 Liberty Spec B

[How-To] Subwoofer Install

Postby HoFF » Mon Jun 11, 2012 8:54 am

Nice write up mate
User avatar
HoFF
-stickered-
 
Posts: 1447
Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 11:39 am
Location: Southern Highlands NSW
Car: MY06 3RB Liberty Wagon 6MT MY09 Foz
Real name: Tom
Profile URL: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=13577&start=255

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install

Postby bosc0 » Tue Jun 12, 2012 8:31 am

Nice work! :clapping:
User avatar
bosc0
 
Posts: 2637
Joined: Thu May 08, 2008 8:22 am
Location: Melbourne
Car: GT SpecB wagon
Real name: Jake

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install

Postby Tim_ » Tue Jun 12, 2012 2:04 pm

Very helpful, Thanks mate
User avatar
Tim_
 
Posts: 257
Joined: Tue May 08, 2012 7:39 pm
Location: Gold Coast QLD
Car: my06 liberty 3.0r
Profile URL: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=17247

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install

Postby chanham » Wed Jun 27, 2012 11:09 pm

great guide!
User avatar
chanham
formerly ciand06
 
Posts: 593
Joined: Mon May 28, 2012 12:18 am
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Car: Subaru Liberty 3.0R 2004
Profile URL: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=18831

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install

Postby clancey » Sat Jun 30, 2012 9:48 pm

Thanks for this, it was a great help to me today as I replaced the foam surround on my Mac Sub.

Cheers

Jeff
User avatar
clancey
 
Posts: 92
Joined: Thu May 31, 2012 1:49 am
Location: Brisbane North
Car: MY05 Liberty GT 5MT
Real name: Jeff
Profile URL: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=17137

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install

Postby legacydan » Sun Jul 01, 2012 12:30 am

great write up, looking to add one of thee to my non macintosh system so ill probably need to add an amp under the passenger seat. To mount the sub in the hole,did you use the spacer provided and it lined up with mounting holes that were already there? or was there any modification needed to the hole to make it fit properly? ill also need to cut a hole in my parcel shelf for speaker cover
User avatar
legacydan
 
Posts: 504
Joined: Tue May 18, 2010 9:48 am
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Car: Legacy b4 jdm import
Real name: Dan

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install

Postby mihai » Sun Jul 01, 2012 4:02 am

legacydan wrote:great write up, looking to add one of thee to my non macintosh system so ill probably need to add an amp under the passenger seat. To mount the sub in the hole,did you use the spacer provided and it lined up with mounting holes that were already there? or was there any modification needed to the hole to make it fit properly? ill also need to cut a hole in my parcel shelf for speaker cover


viewtopic.php?f=12&t=8395

The above walkthrough should help paired with this one.

I installed a vibe space 8 in the stock position with the non mac headunit. Was pretty straight forward. Once you take the parcel shelf off you will find a blanking plate held in by 4 screws where the stock sub is meant to sit. You will have to make a mdf spacer for the sub too and cut out the parcel shelf. On the underside of the carpet trim there is a circle engraved so cutting out is simple. When i get on a computer tomorrow ill link you the finidhed product.
[New: MY11 FPV F6 | Winter White | Pioneer DEX-P99RS | Alpine PDX-F6 | Alpine PDX-M12 | JL Audio 12W7-AE ]
[Old: MY07 2.0R | Urban Grey | 5 MT | 6000k HID | LED | Alpine IVA-W502E | Alpine PDX1.1000 | Alpine PDX4.150 | JL Audio 12W7v3 | Focal KRX2 ]
User avatar
mihai
 
Posts: 1641
Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2009 10:27 pm
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Car: MY07 Liberty 2.0R + MY11 FPV F6
Real name: Michael

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install

Postby legacydan » Sun Jul 01, 2012 7:00 am

thanks for the info, i saw the hole in the parcel shelf on the one im dismantling which got me thinking, ill have a spare parcel shelf there too just incase i mess up! i already have a pioneer double din so should make wiring a bit easier
User avatar
legacydan
 
Posts: 504
Joined: Tue May 18, 2010 9:48 am
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Car: Legacy b4 jdm import
Real name: Dan

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install

Postby Tim_ » Sat Jul 14, 2012 10:21 am

Hey mate,
Did the same thing the other day but when I close the boot the tortion bars stick to the the magnet of the sub. I used the provided spacer but it still makes a loud click when I open the boot when the tortion bar unsticks from the magnet.

How did you get round this?
Thanks
Tim
User avatar
Tim_
 
Posts: 257
Joined: Tue May 08, 2012 7:39 pm
Location: Gold Coast QLD
Car: my06 liberty 3.0r
Profile URL: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=17247

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install

Postby Viper » Sat Jul 14, 2012 10:40 am

Hey mate,

The only adjustment I made was with the plastic/metal clip in the centre, to rotate it around slightly.
Seemed to make more clearance for the rear-most bar.
Other than, that was it.

So yeah.. try that, otherwise... perhaps put some electrical tape around the speaker area?
Viper
 
Posts: 145
Joined: Thu Jan 21, 2010 10:39 am
Location: Melbourne
Car: MY06 Liberty Spec B

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install

Postby Tim_ » Sun Jul 15, 2012 10:16 pm

I think I know what u mean, the clip that you can move/take off? Not the metal clip that is bolted to the parcel shelf?

I had a play around and got rid of the loud click but now I can hear the tortion bars flexing In the boot when driving. It still sticks to the magnet when the boot is closed. When you replaced the stock sub did you only use the foam spacer provided or did you use the metal spacer that was around the stock sub aswell?
User avatar
Tim_
 
Posts: 257
Joined: Tue May 08, 2012 7:39 pm
Location: Gold Coast QLD
Car: my06 liberty 3.0r
Profile URL: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=17247

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install

Postby Tim_ » Thu Jul 26, 2012 10:09 am

Viper???

This sqeaking/ flexing noise is really giving me the sh!ts. Would be good to know if you only used the foam spacer or used the metal spacer around the stock sub aswell?
User avatar
Tim_
 
Posts: 257
Joined: Tue May 08, 2012 7:39 pm
Location: Gold Coast QLD
Car: my06 liberty 3.0r
Profile URL: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=17247

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install

Postby Viper » Thu Jul 26, 2012 11:22 am

Sorry, I don't get a PM when someone replys on this thread for some reason.

I only used the foam spacer. The metal spacer was tossed along with the stock sub.
If I get time on the weekend I'll take a few more shots in the boot to show how it all sits/aligns.
Viper
 
Posts: 145
Joined: Thu Jan 21, 2010 10:39 am
Location: Melbourne
Car: MY06 Liberty Spec B

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install

Postby Tim_ » Thu Jul 26, 2012 11:29 am

No worries, Thanks for the reply. I have seen the pics in the boot, they are really good. If your going to take a pic, could you please snap a pic of where you moved the little plastic clip to? Also can you confirm that 1) there is no flexing noise from your boot and 2) When the boot is closed is the magnet in the sub causing the tortion bar to stick to the sub? You mentioned you have about 3mm gap when boot is closed, i would of thought the power of the magnet would pull the bar into it?

Also i only used the foam spacer but for some reason i am getting this issue, maybe the guy who installed the sub installed it on a angle. Which would cause the bars to be closer to the magnet which would make it stick (which would then create the flexing noise).

Cheers
Tim
User avatar
Tim_
 
Posts: 257
Joined: Tue May 08, 2012 7:39 pm
Location: Gold Coast QLD
Car: my06 liberty 3.0r
Profile URL: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=17247

Next

Return to Reference material & Walkthroughs

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests