DIY: Swaybar Lateral locks

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DIY: Swaybar Lateral locks

Postby teK-- » Sun Nov 07, 2010 4:39 pm

I have a Whiteline rear swaybar, it didn't come with lateral locks even though I think they should. (For some period of time they did include them in the kits but for whatever reason mine didn't). On bumps whilst cornering I'd get a knock sometimes in the rear LHS.

The whiteline lateral locks kit isn't particularly good (they can move and since they are a crimp once design cannot be reset and recrimped).

Also I looked at stainless steel shaft collars (probably the best solution), but they were something like $20.00 each at the local nuts and bolt store???

After some googling many people have had good results simply using wormdrive clamps and rubber hose.

I bought a small length of heater hose (double wall with reinforcement so it's fairly thick), and cut to length. The swaybar is 20mm diameter but in actuality the diameter is more like 22mm due to thickness of the paint, so allow for this when you cut your hose. Get quality stainless steel clamps. Total cost $7.50 for hose, $3.50 for 2 x clamps.

Clean the swaybar on the inside (towards centre of car) side of the swaybar bushes then simply fit the rubber hose against it and clamp on tightly. Check after a few weeks to ensure it has not moved. Done, no more knocks.
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Last edited by teK-- on Thu Nov 11, 2010 9:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: DIY: Swaybar Lateral locks

Postby Kekotic » Sun Nov 07, 2010 5:08 pm

Alternatively, use Cusco swaybars as they won't knock.
I have spoken to PHAT GT about this, it's a common problem with whiteline sways, Cusco's won't do this.

And Jim if you try and post otherwise I'm sure PHAT will come in here and tell you why they don't, I can't begin to comprehend from what PHAT told me.
Notice how a few people have been selling their whiteline front and rear sways lately? It's because of this issue....and they all upgraded to Cusco.
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Re: DIY: Swaybar Lateral locks

Postby teK-- » Sun Nov 07, 2010 5:20 pm

If you can swap my swaybar for a Cusco for $11.00 then yeah sure go for it :roll:

The reason why Cusco don't knock (not speaking from first hand experience), is probably because they have a ridge designed into the bar which locates the bar against the bushes.

It is not just Whiteline bars which use this design. Rallitek, AVO, and many others do; they often include the lateral locks with their kits.
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Re: DIY: Swaybar Lateral locks

Postby Kekotic » Sun Nov 07, 2010 5:29 pm

Also the Cusco bars use a cold roller system to bend the bars so they maintain the rigidity across the entire bar, whiteline uses a hot roller so it's different strengths across the bar.

Also Cusco is the same price from PHAT as opposed to buying from Whiteline, just a thought.

Edit: and I have a rear whiteline bar, haven't heard the dreaded knocking yet though, but PHAT says it takes about 3 months of regular driving, and seeing as I drive my car very irregularly it's going to be a while.
Either way if I had known all of this, I would have gone Cusco.
Just trying to look out for other people who are interested in a swaybar.
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Re: DIY: Swaybar Lateral locks

Postby mihai » Sun Nov 07, 2010 6:19 pm

chaotic2050 wrote:Also the Cusco bars use a cold roller system to bend the bars so they maintain the rigidity across the entire bar, whiteline uses a hot roller so it's different strengths across the bar.

Also Cusco is the same price from PHAT as opposed to buying from Whiteline, just a thought.

Edit: and I have a rear whiteline bar, haven't heard the dreaded knocking yet though, but PHAT says it takes about 3 months of regular driving, and seeing as I drive my car very irregularly it's going to be a while.
Either way if I had known all of this, I would have gone Cusco.
Just trying to look out for other people who are interested in a swaybar.


The hot and cold rolling would have nothing to do with the knocking. It just means that the hot rolled has stronger areas than others and the cold rolled is the same strength throughout the bar.
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Re: DIY: Swaybar Lateral locks

Postby Kekotic » Sun Nov 07, 2010 6:29 pm

mihai wrote:The hot and cold rolling would have nothing to do with the knocking. It just means that the hot rolled has stronger areas than others and the cold rolled is the same strength throughout the bar.


Speak to Michael basically, he's the guru on it all.
Was a bit over my head, but he said it was the way whiteline bend their bars coupled with the bushes they use.

Once again I will refer to the 2 specific people (that I won't name) who have had full whiteline sways and just out of the blue sold them recently, this is due to the knocking noise they made, and they changed over to Cusco per PHAT's advice.
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Re: DIY: Swaybar Lateral locks

Postby teK-- » Sun Nov 07, 2010 6:51 pm

This thread isn't about spring steels.

Also if the solution was so easy/cheap as suggested, I would have simply posted "If your swaybar knocks then buy a Cusco"

For all other people who don't have money to burn, then try my solution.
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Re: DIY: Swaybar Lateral locks

Postby Kekotic » Sun Nov 07, 2010 7:14 pm

Okay sorry Jim.

For people who don't have aftermarket swaybars, buy Cusco.
if you bought Whiteline and have the knocking issue, buy these lateral locks.

Seriously have you ever seen anyone with Cusco bars ask about a knocking noise though?
I'm just throwing it out there, you shouldn't have to buy extra stuff to stop a knocking noise.
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Re: DIY: Swaybar Lateral locks

Postby Jtek » Thu Nov 11, 2010 1:38 am

Thanks Jim, will keep this in mind for when they DO knock. Any idea if I should expect the front to knock aswell?
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DIY: Swaybar Lateral locks

Postby Mr Cali » Thu Nov 11, 2010 7:56 am

I bought mine a few months ago with the clamps on it. Haven't heard a knock from them.
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Re: DIY: Swaybar Lateral locks

Postby teK-- » Thu Nov 11, 2010 9:16 am

Jtek wrote:Thanks Jim, will keep this in mind for when they DO knock. Any idea if I should expect the front to knock aswell?


If it's a bar which doesn't have ridges to locate against the bushes, or if it didn't come with lateral locks then yes it is possible. This is pretty much all Whiteline, Rallitek, AVO swaybars from what I have seen. Also another source of knocks is loose or worn/broken endlinks so check them too. If you buy the rose jointed endlinks ("race use only" etc), then they will knock no matter what and it is not the fault of the swaybar.

Mr Cali wrote:I bought mine a few months ago with the clamps on it. Haven't heard a knock from them.


Best think you can do is tighten the clamps a bit (they are crimp style you can use vice grip pliers). If they come loose they will move and then you have to cut them off and start again. You can use worm drive clamps on those Whiteline locks if you cut their crimped metal bands off, but I am skeptical as to how well they stay on anyway. Urethane once grease gets onto them becomes pretty slippery which is why I suggested using rubber hose as it forms a very tight seal so grease cannot get under it in the first place.

FWIW there is this annoying off camber corner on the way to work with a dip in the middle where a drain has collapsed. My rear left clunked every time I go over that corner. Since I've done this fix it is totally silent.
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