[How-To] Subwoofer Install - Updated

Detailed descriptions of how to do things to your Liberty.

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install - Updated

Postby shav » Tue Aug 27, 2013 11:47 am

BaSeLine wrote:
chanham wrote:
anyone use the DB840? feedback?


I am currently using DB840 with stock MacIntosh amp, and min.2 layers of mongoose vibration damper on the parcel shelf. I crank it up to bass +6 occassionally with no probs (only after it s warmed up_ this I mean not getting in the car on a cold morning and starting ignition then crank up sound!). Feedback is better than stock sub. I ve only put volume at max 26 and the bass kicks well however you wont get the feeling like a punch to the chest...if that's what you re after..


That's interesting. When I get the stock sub replaced with the DB840 I am hoping for better SQ in combination with dynamatting the rear parcel shelf like crazy. I have never put the sound past 20, so I reckon I'd be happy with that sub.
Cheers
Shav

MY07 Subaru Liberty GT Premium Sedan | HKS Panel filter | Pierburg 3 port | Whiteline adj sways F&R | Cusco HD mounts | Whiteline HD front sway links | Anycarlink AL-1080B | Ultrex s/s 3" CBE | Ultrex PU lip spoiler | Invidia s/s dump pipe and 100cel cat | KiDo tuned | DBA T2 rotors | Intima SS brake pads | Mishimoto TMIC | Koya ISR7 wheels | 265L Kobe fuel pump | Diamond Works SI Drive dial | Bilsteins

COSMETIC MODS ON THE WAY

My other toys:
2012 Focus Cayo 2.0 road bike
2015 Cervelo S5 VWD road bike
User avatar
shav
 
Posts: 3609
Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2012 12:01 pm
Location: Adelaide, Southern Suburbs
Car: MY07 Subaru Liberty GT Premium
Real name: Shav
Profile URL: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=18915&start=480

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install - Updated

Postby tony_m » Wed Aug 28, 2013 9:14 pm

Used this walkthrough today to install a Kenwood XW800F. Easy enough, but very awkward kneeling and squatting in the back of the car for a few hours! Will pay for that tomorrow haha.

On another note I read a while back that some others were wondering how the XW800F goes. Well it goes. Hard. It was noticeably under-powered initially, but this was just to confirm it was working. As soon as the interior was back together I did the amp mod, and now one very happy camper...

Except for one problem- the rattling is pretty annoying. Sub is 10 times better, and rattling is 100x more noticeable. The parcel shelf was dynamatted during the install, but about 5% of the rattle is coming from the middle seatbelt enclosure, which is a plastic box mounted under the parcel shelf, I've also noticed the rattling all but disappears when I push up on the sub from the bottom, or hold the parcel shelf down from the top. Pretty sure I'll have to take it apart again and get some foam in there..? Any other ideas welcomed.
User avatar
tony_m
 
Posts: 167
Joined: Wed May 15, 2013 10:30 pm
Location: North Brisbane
Car: 2008 Heritage Luxury Edition
Real name: Antony
Profile URL: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=23965

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install - Updated

Postby Surge » Wed Aug 28, 2013 11:40 pm

I put something similar to dynamat on the back of my number plates.
I think they rattle as well and it seemed to help.
User avatar
Surge
 
Posts: 820
Joined: Sat Dec 08, 2012 1:28 pm
Location: ACT
Car: 2010 lib GT 5eat

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install - Updated

Postby tony_m » Fri Aug 30, 2013 11:46 am

Thanks Surge, but wasn't my numberplate. (I double-sided that to the car weeks ago, flush & no mounting holes visible! :D )

Apart from the torsion bars, the only other source of major vibration noise was the middle seatbelt. The casing which houses the tensioner & lock must be full of intricate parts and was so unbelievably irritating. No longer an issue. Read into that however you choose haha.

Now 110% happy with the upgrade. New sub paired with the amp hack sh*ts all over the original setup- no surprises there. $130 for the sub delivered, and about $5 worth of parts from JayCar, money well spent imo! Subsides the desire to get a full stereo in- prefer the stock look of the piano black McIntosh h/u anyway, even though its such a basic unit.

***
Edit: Seatbelt now re-installed. Sub moved from parcel shelf to a DIY speaker box. Loved having it hidden up there but the rattling was continuing to annoy me. No amount of deadening was reducing the resonance of the parcel shelf. I think the shelf is just a little too thin for this speaker. lol. Plus the torsion bars, also I noticed a rattle outside, from the very bottom of the rear bar, near the exhaust. Made the car sound like a rattly POS commo. Seems to have stopped since I boxed the sub.
Last edited by tony_m on Sun Sep 15, 2013 10:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
tony_m
 
Posts: 167
Joined: Wed May 15, 2013 10:30 pm
Location: North Brisbane
Car: 2008 Heritage Luxury Edition
Real name: Antony
Profile URL: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=23965

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install - Updated

Postby muzzrx » Mon Sep 02, 2013 12:56 pm

Hi Viper -

Thanks so much for taking the time to write this walkthrough.

I used it to install a Polk Audio DB840 in place of the stock.
I've also put in Front Components (DB6501) and Rear Coaxials (DB651s)
Going to install the Amp (PA5000.5) tonight, Not sure If i can fit it under the seats without drunken girls kicking the crap out of it when I sober-drive, so may have to relocate it all to the boot...

I'll also start a thread with results etc... But thanks again !
User avatar
muzzrx
 
Posts: 41
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2013 5:59 pm
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Car: 04 Liberty GT 5PSD
Real name: Mike

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install - Updated

Postby scoobydoobydoo » Thu Aug 20, 2015 8:25 pm

Viper wrote:Sorry guys.

Please PM me if you want a spacer.


Anyone know if Viper is still making spacers? Struggling to find one!
scoobydoobydoo
 
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2015 8:12 pm
Car: Subaru Liberty 2009 3.0R

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install - Updated

Postby teK-- » Sun Jul 17, 2016 8:59 pm

Haven't posted in a while but just wanted to say thanks to Viper for sharing this info.

Installed an MM840 in my 2.5i which does not have a factory McIntosh system. I was previously running a 12" subby in a huge custom made vented box but got tired lately of having hardly any boot space. Have kept my Kenwood amp which puts out 1x160WRMS in bridged mode.

Here are some tips I wanted to add which I picked up on the way..

1. You don't need to dynamat the whole parcel shelf unless you have heaps of mat to use up. I found that one extreme wedge door kit (18x32") added enough mass to stop the shelf rattling. Just make sure you cover up all the bigger holes in the shelf and go all the way to the edge of the speaker hole in the shelf.

2 . Without the luxury of a 3D printer like Viper has, I used 3mm thick MDF. Used two layers laminated together with PVA glue and it was ready to jigsaw after an hour or so. Use the foam spacer that came with the subby as a template. Also I'm not sure why Viper cut off the rounds of the spacer on two sides; I replicated this when I made mine but found when installing that it was not necessary as a circular spacer wouldn't have fouled on anything. YMMV.

3. Even with 6mm of MDF and the foam spacer I found the torsion spring bars still clipped the corner of the subby. Not sure if the non-McIntosh cars have a different torsion bar. I fixed this by installing a tinnerman clip in the centre support for the torsion bar, which pushes the bar down and away from the subby to give 3-4mm more clearance.

4. However, the torsion bar would still be pulled by the magnet on the sub with a click sound as you close the boot. Fixed this by sticking a small piece of velcro tape onto the sub (the fluffy side) to silence the noise.


With 160WRMS cranking through the sub it does pretty damn well; good loudness and doesn't play as low as my old setup but very happy with having a much bigger boot to use now.

Thanks again.
Attachments
DSC_0095.jpg
DSC_0095.jpg (232.29 KiB) Viewed 4024 times
DSC_0101.JPG
DSC_0101.JPG (174.79 KiB) Viewed 4024 times
DSC_0094.JPG
DSC_0094.JPG (231.08 KiB) Viewed 4024 times
DSC_0093.JPG
DSC_0093.JPG (121.85 KiB) Viewed 4024 times
DSC_0089.JPG
DSC_0089.JPG (190.62 KiB) Viewed 4024 times
MY04 2.5i Safety 5MT Sedan "Project Locomotive"
..: JDM Subaru-AVO-Whiteline-Bilstein-Swift Springs-Cusco-Rallitek-GT Brakes-Remsa-K4RT30Y-Blitz-Philips-Défi-STI-Sabelt-Redline-Alpine-Polk Audio-Kenwood-Dynamat :..
User avatar
teK--
-stickered-
 
Posts: 4060
Joined: Thu Jun 11, 2009 5:02 pm
Location: Melbourne

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install - Updated

Postby shav » Mon Jul 18, 2016 10:16 am

Neat setup, Same sub as me. But Im running it off the stock amp which I think is a mistake as I can hardly hear it unless I crank the volume. Really need a monoblock amp for the sub alone.
Cheers
Shav

MY07 Subaru Liberty GT Premium Sedan | HKS Panel filter | Pierburg 3 port | Whiteline adj sways F&R | Cusco HD mounts | Whiteline HD front sway links | Anycarlink AL-1080B | Ultrex s/s 3" CBE | Ultrex PU lip spoiler | Invidia s/s dump pipe and 100cel cat | KiDo tuned | DBA T2 rotors | Intima SS brake pads | Mishimoto TMIC | Koya ISR7 wheels | 265L Kobe fuel pump | Diamond Works SI Drive dial | Bilsteins

COSMETIC MODS ON THE WAY

My other toys:
2012 Focus Cayo 2.0 road bike
2015 Cervelo S5 VWD road bike
User avatar
shav
 
Posts: 3609
Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2012 12:01 pm
Location: Adelaide, Southern Suburbs
Car: MY07 Subaru Liberty GT Premium
Real name: Shav
Profile URL: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=18915&start=480

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install - Updated

Postby Cougz » Sun Jul 31, 2016 4:52 pm

I did the same thing since my stock sub died (MM840 + dynamat). I ended up just using 12mm MDF as the spacer. More than necessary but no issues with clearance on the top side.

If you don't have a separate amp for the sub, make sure you do the stock amp sub mod to boost the output.
User avatar
Cougz
 
Posts: 9
Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 2:22 pm
Location: Brisbane
Car: 2007 GT-B
Real name: Dane

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install - Updated

Postby shav » Mon Aug 01, 2016 1:23 pm

Cougz wrote:I did the same thing since my stock sub died (MM840 + dynamat). I ended up just using 12mm MDF as the spacer. More than necessary but no issues with clearance on the top side.

If you don't have a separate amp for the sub, make sure you do the stock amp sub mod to boost the output.


Can you lead me to the thread for that please Dane?
Cheers
Shav

MY07 Subaru Liberty GT Premium Sedan | HKS Panel filter | Pierburg 3 port | Whiteline adj sways F&R | Cusco HD mounts | Whiteline HD front sway links | Anycarlink AL-1080B | Ultrex s/s 3" CBE | Ultrex PU lip spoiler | Invidia s/s dump pipe and 100cel cat | KiDo tuned | DBA T2 rotors | Intima SS brake pads | Mishimoto TMIC | Koya ISR7 wheels | 265L Kobe fuel pump | Diamond Works SI Drive dial | Bilsteins

COSMETIC MODS ON THE WAY

My other toys:
2012 Focus Cayo 2.0 road bike
2015 Cervelo S5 VWD road bike
User avatar
shav
 
Posts: 3609
Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2012 12:01 pm
Location: Adelaide, Southern Suburbs
Car: MY07 Subaru Liberty GT Premium
Real name: Shav
Profile URL: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=18915&start=480

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install - Updated

Postby kopper » Sun Jan 01, 2017 3:53 pm

Just wanted to say thanks to Viper for the detailed instructions.

Was driving along one day when suddenly it sounded like there was a jackhammer nearby. I realised the sub had blown the foam. I disconnected the connector to the sub in the boot so that I could still listen to the music without the distortion from the blown sub. My guess is its just the age combined with the heat that it would receive on the parcel shelf (plus the bassy song I was listening to at the time).

Slight variations in the instructions in my 2009 Liberty Premium, but thanks to the instructions and photos I was able to do the replacement quickly and easily without doing any damage (the instructions are similar enough that it still made sense).

I originally ordered a W200 from soundlabs, but on the suggestion of a friend I cancelled the order, as they had limited specs on the sub and didnt say if it was designed for a free-air install. The soundlabs guy said that it would work but only because he had read this forum with the other people saying that it worked (just because it fits and connects doesnt mean its working properly).

I ended up ordering the kicker instead as the specs say that it is suitable for a free-air install. No spacers required in mine as there are no obstructions in the boot.

To be honest I probably didnt need to replace it, with the 12 or so other speakers, I probably couldnt pick the difference anyway. Its only a small sub and its not working that hard. But for $100 or so its done and hopefully I wont have to worry about it again. An added bonus is that the new sub has a tougher frame that the original, so if things do bash into it in the boot (because there is no protection around it) its unlikely to damage it.
kopper
 
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2012 8:15 am

Re: [How-To] Subwoofer Install - Updated

Postby cgaz37 » Sun Jul 28, 2019 6:15 pm

Thank you viper. 7 years later this thread is still helping people.

There is so much info to digest and I had no idea on what I wanted to. I went to RYDA and the guys suggested a kenwood that was an open air sub. I questioned the low output of the amp but he said it would be just what I want without doing major mods. After reading some info here I figured I’d take a punt as anything would be better than the blown one and worst case scenario, I could do the Macintosh amp mod to drive the sub better if it needed it.

I didn’t bother with dynamat due to time constraints but the result is awesome. It doesn’t kick hard/at all but the bass is rich and definitely there. Plenty for what I need and not crazy to the point that you need to get the sub off the parcel tray.

Following this step by step was very straight forward and got me through any hiccups. Thanks again!
cgaz37
 
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Jul 28, 2019 6:04 pm
Car: 07 Silver TBSTI
Real name: Christos

Previous

Return to Reference material & Walkthroughs

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests