'08 BL9 2.5i. '91 BC6 awd and turbo conversion.

[rexhunta]

All my gen 1 updates went with the site crash, but done a mod to the gen 4 today.

Was down at the local audio shop and found a Kenwood reverse camera, so grabbed it, a single RCA with a fly lead moulded together. Grabbed the wiring and pin outs off here to ground the ecu for the reverse camera function. Run all the leads, and added the camera into the head unit. All works great, comes up even with the agree page up front or if i'm maps.

So far i've modded the stock unit for :

Aux input + the mod to trick deck into having it work
Sub control - out + remote
RCA input for both audio and video
Reverse camera
Maps updated as far as I could via files found on here.

just wish there was a mod for the enter key !

[bigBADbenny]

The above head unit mods on a stock clarion?

The server upgrade got me too.

Solution: join Waybackmachine site and archive your posts, one by one.

I didn’t lose too much I can’t easily rewrite, its just remembering the info!

[rexhunta]

The above head unit mods on a stock clarion?

The server upgrade got me too.

Solution: join Waybackmachine site and archive your posts, one by one.

I didn’t lose too much I can’t easily rewrite, its just remembering the info!

It's the stock Kenwood deck. I want to pull the speakers and see whats in the doors.

[rexhunta]

So going to try and add my Gen 1 back in here, so here goes.

I picked up this 1991 BC6 FWD 4 speed auto from a 1 owner in october last year and slowly been getting some stuff done. It's complete, rego'd, running, I cruised back from Perth ( about 200kms) with the cruise control and air con cranked. has a plush blue velour interior for now, and also has factory deck !



After a few DMs into Mechanical Stigs and Ichibans Instas, I chased down a rolling chassis GD Bugeye that was complete without a motor. I gutted the driveline, all the pedal boxes, all the brakes, fuel tank and a heap of spares.





Top is the gen 1, bottom is the bugeye.


So I have actually bolted everything in, the lot fits. The Gen 1 shell had the entire holes for the AWD system, including the centre bearing. I used the GD manual crossmember. I got the taps to suit all the threads, and tapped and cleaned every holes underneath so everything went in.

I've pulled the GD tank apart, have fitted a Walbro 255, changed the plastic lines to the metal lines from the BC tank, and have fitted the tank into the gen 1.

I have rear main and a rocker cover gaskets to put on, I am chasing a 5 speed flywheel and clutch soon. I fitted the GDs front brakes which were about 20-30mm larger but also 2 pots. I had to use the GD front axles, I just cut the abs tone rings off, the manual box is slightly skinnier.







I have also started the wiring, have to add things in for the inhibitor switch, the switches for the cruise, reverse lights and neutral position switch off the box. also need to sort out a speedo thing, i may just buy the electric to cable drive box.

Turbo kit has been bolted on, i do need to make a new dump pipe cause of the clutch slave, but i have a new shed tool coming so putting it off until start of April when it turns up. Sick of working on the ground so ordered a 2 post.

I may have missed bits and pieces, but it's getting there. Hopefully this break i'll be able to pull the motor out and change the seals over, replace any water hoses on the engine and tap the sump for the oil return.

Pete

[Yowie]

That's going to be quite a sleeper when you're done.

[rexhunta]

That's going to be quite a sleeper when you're done.

I just hope it'll be a nice cruiser, with a little bit of grunt, but 80s style. I'm still trying to decide the factory gunmetal or white. Leaning towards grey as they just look so good.

[rexhunta]

Yesterday got bored, finally got the rust cut out and new panels put in on the gen 1.

It was only skin related so was able to deskin the parts I had and put them in. underneath went through, rust proofed, galv spray then primed before I put the new skins on.

ATM it's just got primer sitting on it, but does look a lot better already. When I start doing the body work i'll filler and sand it properly.







Now when I looked at it this morning, im a lot happier there's no big holes sticking out. Was going to pull the motor today, but have not really got the motivation so another breaks problem.

[rexhunta]

Well. Wife rang me up and asked to see what I was upto today and started rambling off jobs around the house.

So anyway, motor is out.



Time to give it a clean up, do a few bits and pieces, clean the engine bay and paint it, then motor back in.

[Yowie]

May as well chuck a turbocharged LS in there.

I mean you have the old engine out, that's half the job done, right?

[rexhunta]

Definitely not, I'm more anti-ls then most anti-ls'ers.

( have already helped put an LS1 into a TJ Wrangler and a L98 into a JK Rubicon.)

Rather put a CA18DET in if anything non EJ

[rexhunta]

Spare time today, so done the cam and front crank seals which I used genuine, done the timing belt, idlers and acc drive belts.

Motor is now all back together with all the acc ons, got the turbo all bolted on, made a few supporting brackets for it to keep it off the heads. Still have to wrap all the headers as well, and then its back into the car.

Oil feed for the turbo plumbed in, got to add a few vacuum nipples in a couple of the spare parts on the intake manifold for wastegate and boost gauge.

[rexhunta]

Got a fair few things done this shift break which is good setup for the next one.

Most important. 16mm cable now complete from house box to shed box. 15amp, and now enough feed for any tool I want.

So now new tool is hooked up, and now I can see the benefits already.



I have done the oil return from the turbo. Had some 15mm Id 5mm wall thick mild steel pipe, I tapped the inside to 3/8" NPT, cut down to size, drilled the sump so it fit in ever so snug, and welded the bung in. Used 16mm steel pipe that had some good bends in it so snake in between the block and engine mount. 16mm OD to 3/8' npt fitting into the bung.



Today tackled getting the old towbar off, without wrecking too much of the interior. Successfully got the rear bar off, had a look around the rear sheet metal, it's all factory untouched. Pretty happy about that.





And then.. my favourite. I found the toolkit shoved right in the back of the wheel well. All the tools were in it, the factory jack, bar, and even the factory 4th week of 1990 spare tyre. Unfortunately i'll have to change the tyre at some point, but that's got to be some subaru archeology there lol.

[Yowie]

That ancient spare tyre is awesome. Makes my 2008 Geolandar look positively fresh.

[rexhunta]

That ancient spare tyre is awesome. Makes my 2008 Geolandar look positively fresh.

Dads Outback had the factory white walled geolanders. So ugly

Pity i'll have to ditch it, maybe i'll keep it on that spare and just get another wrx rim for the spare in the actual size i need.

[rexhunta]

box is now mounted to clutch which is now mounted to the engine for good ( hopefully ), and back in the car. Front rad support now cut out so I can get some pipes going through for the cooler. It will all eventually come out later on for the bay to be painted, but rather be scratching it all with the old paint.

Clutch is a complete Clutch Industries single mass kit for the bugeye 2.5RS.

Also added in a Tomei Rising rate FPR, Aeroflow rail adaptor.

cut out the least I could for the cooler to fit on the front bar. Tomorrow I'll massage the last part and see what of my piping fits and what i'll need to remake. Also still need to wrap the up pipe. Once I get that stuff all done i'll order some 3" and get the exhaust started.

If I get a chance next break i'll be starting to cut all the auto wiring out and the auto ecu. Not entirely looking forward to shoving my face in somewhere feet have been for 30 years.

Pete.