Member Profile - Craig's '08 Spc.B wagon

[BMCracer]

Great build.

Regarding the 91 degree thermostat, that link you posted doesn't work, is it still active? Wondering ( hoping ) if a lower water temp will help my IAM problems?

[nvmylh]

Try this link:

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.ph ... ount=14760

Also the I am going to try the 21200AA230 thermostate next, I reckon the one I put in (21200AA072) is too cold. Engine barely ever runs above 85! 21200AA230, Opens: 82-86C, full open: 91C

[BMCracer]

Try this link:

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.ph ... ount=14760

Also the I am going to try the 21200AA230 thermostate next, I reckon the one I put in (21200AA072) is too cold. Engine barely ever runs above 85! 21200AA230, Opens: 82-86C, full open: 91C

Thanks for that link. Yes the 21200AA230 looks to be the pick of the bunch from that list. But I just looked it up ( the kit part number - thermostat and gasket ) and it says only suitable for 5MT and 4AT, need 21210AA030 for 5AT. This 21210AA030 ( kit ) thermostat is the 78 degree one that you said is too cold ( but it's cheaper!?! )

Why would the gearbox make a difference to the engine thermostat?

https://parts.citysubaru.com.au/product ... 21210aa160

[nvmylh]

Haha no idea why the gearbox would make a difference.

The thermostats and gasket are pretty cheap from partsouq though.

Also what radiator are you running?

[BMCracer]

Also what radiator are you running?

As far as I know it's the original standard radiator. I bought the car at 139,000km. Now at 183,000. Never a problem per se, but the IAM is terrible and it seems to run around 95-96 water temp, and wondering if that is making it ping? I run it on 98, but even with octane booster it still isn't very happy. Wondering if ( hoping ) lower temps will reduce / stop the pinging ( if that is actually what is causing the problem ) and consequently stop the ECU from pulling all the timing out of it and making it feel like a NA 1300?

[Yowie]

As far as I know it's the original standard radiator. I bought the car at 139,000km. Now at 183,000. Never a problem per se, but the IAM is terrible and it seems to run around 95-96 water temp, and wondering if that is making it ping? I run it on 98, but even with octane booster it still isn't very happy. Wondering if ( hoping ) lower temps will reduce / stop the pinging ( if that is actually what is causing the problem ) and consequently stop the ECU from pulling all the timing out of it and making it feel like a NA 1300?

Do you still have stock headers on your 3 litre? There is a Skid Factory video where Turbo Yoda / Alan comments to the effect that the stock headers (designed to heat cats for emissions) cause a lot of pinging.

In terms of your main question - in theory lower coolant temps should give you more headroom before knock sets in.

[nvmylh]

Whats your IAM BMRacer? Mine used to jump around a fair bit but has settled over last few months at 0.281. I haven't checked the LV for a while.

It'll will be interesting to see how new a/f sensors go in the exhaust (whenever I can be bothered spending the money on them..), then the rebuilt motor with new tensioners.

[BMCracer]

As far as I know it's the original standard radiator. I bought the car at 139,000km. Now at 183,000. Never a problem per se, but the IAM is terrible and it seems to run around 95-96 water temp, and wondering if that is making it ping? I run it on 98, but even with octane booster it still isn't very happy. Wondering if ( hoping ) lower temps will reduce / stop the pinging ( if that is actually what is causing the problem ) and consequently stop the ECU from pulling all the timing out of it and making it feel like a NA 1300?

Do you still have stock headers on your 3 litre? There is a Skid Factory video where Turbo Yoda / Alan comments to the effect that the stock headers (designed to heat cats for emissions) cause a lot of pinging.

In terms of your main question - in theory lower coolant temps should give you more headroom before knock sets in.

Yes I still have the stock headers. I would like to get theRaptor ones as they look very well designed and made, but the fact that they are not a straight bolt on and need some adaptation ( so that it's a one way modification ) at the exhaust shop is putting me off. It never fails to amaze me when people take a lot of time to design something, but miss the last 2% that would make a good product great.

[BMCracer]

Whats your IAM BMRacer? Mine used to jump around a fair bit but has settled over last few months at 0.281. I haven't checked the LV for a while.

It'll will be interesting to see how new a/f sensors go in the exhaust (whenever I can be bothered spending the money on them..), then the rebuilt motor with new tensioners.

Anywhere between 0.000 and maybe 0.250? On the very odd occasion for no reason at all it'll go up to 0.7 or even 1, but pretty well straight away drop back again. I can't figure out why it does that when my driving style and the load on the engine very rarely ever changes

[SuperS0nic]

Hey dude, I finished my swap on the 2.5. Went mint, have cruise control, boost, SI drive the lot. Thanks heaps for your help. I've linked this thread on mine and credited you.

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=36882

[nvmylh]

No stress at all, awesome work and write up!

Interesting about the adapter plate being inverted, I'll try get under my car and check that I haven't drawn the mirrored version or something silly there.

Also, I noticed you didn't change the ABS unit, have you tried locking up the wheels since the swap? I don't know why but there us a different part number for the ABS unit between manual and auto cars. I couldn't imagine it would be a big difference though?

[JezzaH6]

Typical, after I posted that to you, the next day it drained itself to about 6%! I don't think it went to sleep properly for some reason..

On another note, this is my latest impulse buy, JezzaH6: I blame you for this one! Probably not quite as easy to fit as the CTS-v cadillacs but I'll see how it looks after drawing them and the knuckle up in CAD.

20210325_21382 2.jpg

20210325_21382 5.jpg

I can't believe it's taken me this long to read your build thread- amazing work! I'm loving the influence! Have you had any luck getting these 6 pots mounted yet?

I had actually been eyeing those exact ones for a bit and then one day they were gone I'm just happy that they ended up at a good home!

If you are still running into battery drain issues with your nexus install I had good luck splicing into mine with a TP4056 lipo charging breakout board. Wired in parallel to the tablet (directly to the battery) and connected to 5V this can increase the charging current to 2A and means even on short trips there is normally ample charging after parking up for the night. I ran a setup like this for a good 12 months before I ended up replacing it with a full custom system running android on a SBC and hardwired in.

[JezzaH6]

No stress at all, awesome work and write up!

Interesting about the adapter plate being inverted, I'll try get under my car and check that I haven't drawn the mirrored version or something silly there.

Also, I noticed you didn't change the ABS unit, have you tried locking up the wheels since the swap? I don't know why but there us a different part number for the ABS unit between manual and auto cars. I couldn't imagine it would be a big difference though?

From my experience (after accidentally stripping one of the ABS pump fittings) the pumps are physically identical between manual and auto. The difference is in the programming- as far as I can tell they cannot be reprogrammed, and the ABS behaviour is different between the manual and auto versions- I assume the manual one is perhaps a bit more sport tuned, maybe take into account engine braking, or perhaps the auto one also allows for transmission control (but I don't actually know).

What I did find though is you need whatever programming the ECU is expecting to see- if it came from an auto vehicle you require the auto tuned ABS module to avoid a CEL, and the manual computer expects a manual-tuned module. The manual ones were more expensive when I had to buy one, so I bought an auto one and swapped over the computer module. This was a pretty straight forward process, but you do have to be careful.

'This was for my VSC equipped car- not sure if there is a difference for others!

[nvmylh]

Haha yea those 6 pots seem like pretty nice calipers! Haven't got them mounted yet, don't have rims that clear but some are on the way. I've drawn up some mounting adapters but they will require changing those calipers to a radial-bolt mounting style. There's a couple of places around the world that seem to do it already with success.
Plus the other delay is because I'm trying to build a mini CNC milling machine to make the adapters and other stuff. Slow project..

I haven't had any issues with the nexus in a LONG time now, its been awesome. Can't remember the last time I even had to restart it! The only thing I did was connect the power supply to the a different fuse which meant that it always has power during cranking and running. But it's off when the accessories are on, no big deal really. I only drive 3km to work and it still stays at 98+% battery all the time.

Interesting about the ABS unit's too. I'll keep the module swapping idea in case I ever need it, cheers!

[JezzaH6]

Fair enough! It definitely seems like a project to get those mounted that's for sure. A diy CNC milling machine has been on my wish list for a long time- there is only so much you can 3D print