Bank1 cam position sensor RnR:
Not too hard, the o-ring on this sensor hardens and shrinks with miles and heat from the turbo.
If you’re not inlet pressure testing, evidence of the leak is accumulated blow-by fallout in the pocket on the head where the sensor is seated.
The only things that might require removal to make access possible are the rear bolt on the injector guard and the turbo coolant tank.
The former needs to be cracked loose with a ring spanner, then undone with a ratchet spanner. Its useful to jamb a finger in to hold the bolt head when undoing or doing up. The sole reason for removing this bolt is simply to get a straight shot at the 10mm bolt holding the cam sensor on.
If you can do it with out that extra clearance, go for it.
Same for the turbo coolant tank, iirc I had to get this out of the way as I was also doing the cyl3 injector seat seal and the pcv head breather and balance pipe on bank1.
The turbo coolant tank, beware it’s very easy to snap off the hose ports, there’s 4 total so go easy. I use hose nippers to seal off as many of the hoses as possible but will invest in a fluid vacuum syringe as I hate dropping coolant all over the block and exhaust manifolds.
Anyway just move the tank out of the way for easier access.
A good 1/4” socket set with very long extensions is important, as is a strong magnetic base torch to illuminate the area.
The cam sensor o-rings are 15x1.5mm or very close to that. A 4x claw parts grabber would be handy for reinserting the sensor (see below).
Bank2 cam position sensor R&R without removing inlet manifold completely.
So on an 07 2.5t I can say to do bank2 cam sensor can be really “quick” lol.
Remove tmic (could be optional), undo 8 bolts holding down the tgvs, lift intake against the AC line (edit: please just temporarily undo the AC compressor to allow for clearance, every time I’ve tried lifting the intake manifold, I’ve lost AC gas) approx 1” up using engine crane on the FPR bracket, drop a 1/4” drive 10mm socket with extension and uni joint at the socket, down past the loom and it might drop onto the sensor bolt with looks and guidance.
Getting the sensor back in is a bigger challenge, I used a very strong magnetic torch to illuminate the area from the firewall side. A 4x claw part grabber is used with one claw through the bolt hole on the sensor, then you jusf need to offer it up, let the pickup into the hole and let it drop in. “Easy” lol.
Having the sensor unplugged and on the part grabber allows the correct insertion orientation: bolt hole towards guard, and allows the sensor to rotate and drop into place but without loosing the sensor on top of the head.
I also removed the main loom (rhd) and fuel line brackets on the guard and firewall for easier access.
On that model there’s no room to flip the sensor out due to the tgv motor.