Member Profile - Yowie's SH Forester XT

[Yowie]

Hello

I joined the Club Liberty Forum back in 2015 when I was hunting for a suitable Liberty GT Wagon. As scarcity and desperation took hold I ended up getting an SH Forester, lurking here and mainly posting on Ozfoz. With Ozfoz now up in smoke and bigBADbenny's encouragement I'm setting up a build thread here.

I bought this car mid 2015 for a great price with nearly 200,000km on the clock but an engine only 60,000km old (replaced by Subaru under dodgy-bearing warranty for the previous owner).

Intentions were/are to boost the performance but keep it subtle/practical.



(photo taken pre-lowering at a WRX Club of Qld dirt day)

Details
2008 SH9 XT Premium - Maroon
4EAT (Auto)
Black Leather

Mods List

Brakes
Gen V Liberty GT front brakes
Gen V Liberty GT [or Toyota 86 GTS] rear brakes (incl vented rotors)
CUSCO Brake Cylinder Brace stopper (painted black)

Suspension
WHITELINE Adj Rear Swaybar 22mm (middle setting)
Superpro 24mm front swaybar (soft setting)
Pedder Sportsryder lowered springs with KYB dampers
Superpro alloy front lower control arms (more caster)
Replacement of various bushes, slices of pineapple, etc. with Superpro polyurethane items

Engine
New OEM EJ257 bottom-end (Nov 2022)
ARP 2000 head studs (Nov 2022)
Reconditioned & mildly ported heads (Nov 2022)
Engine mounts - Hardrace "hardened - street use" (Jan 2023)
K-type temp probes in stock intercooler
GRIMMSPEED 3 Port boost controller
PERRIN Silicone Inlet Pipe
Throttle body coolant bypass (though custom temp sensor enclosure)
ported throttle body

Oiling
11mm oil pump (Nov 2022)
Killer B oil pickup (Nov 2022)
Killer B windage tray (Nov 2022)
Penrite "Ten Tenths" 10W40 oil
FB25 oil filter (longer - more filtration media)
Fumoto oil drain tap

Fuel Delivery
Full-time E85
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Xspurt 1000cc injectors
E85-friendly rubber fuel lines

Turbo
VF46 (ported on inlet and far side of wastegate exit for efficiency)
VF52 (Nov 2022)
Studs to replace OEM turbo-to-intercooler bolts
Perrin turbo blanket

Exhaust
port-matched OEM manifolds & up-pipe (Nov 2022)
XForce dump pipe with catalytic converter
Perrin dump pipe blanket
AEM wideband sensor (for gauge only)
Custom mild steel mid pipe (2x louvered 2.5" resonators) and 2x 2.5" mild steel tri-flow mufflers with stainless tips (quiet exhaust with subtle boxer rumble).

Engine Bay
solid/forged battery terminals (bad experiences with "thin strap" style coming loose)
Kobe Motorsports silicone throttle body hose
Kobe Motorsports silicone radiator hoses
"power bulge" engine cover lift to fit inlet pipe
57mm secondary feed (cold air intake) to stock airbox
Lip-removal on OEM over-the-radiator snorkel rest
internal ribs removal from clean side of stock airbox
Kobe Motorsport Silicone MAF pipe (trimmed to fit between standard airbox and Perrin turbo pipe)
two catch cans in series on cam cover breather circuit - Golbys catch can under airbox then Kap Industries catch can next to radiator
catch can - Mishimoto "compact XL" on passenger side strut tower for crank case vent circuit. Internally modified.
Koyorad radiator (all alloy, 2 rows, 35mm core thickness)

Driveline
Rebuilt 4-speed auto gearbox
new factory gearbox mount (Jan 2023)
Whiteline pitch-stop mount (March 2023)
Fluid-to-air ATF cooler (radiator bypassed)
rebuilt starter motor (Nov 2022)

Exterior
LED reversing lights
LED front parking lights
Reversing camera
Bridgestone RE003 tyres
UHF antenna
OEM window shades
OEM bonnet protector (yes they are fine with a bonnet scoop & intercooler)
Rallyarmor mudflaps

Interior
Autometer mechanical boost gauge
AEM AFR gauge
AEM oil pressure gauge
SPA Design dual digital temp gauge (reading oil and water temps)
UHF radio
Air temp gauge - pre & post intercooler
Parrot Android Smart headunit with Torque App
Bluetooth OBD port sender
Fire Extinguisher with Kap Industries bracket (passenger side)

Tune
Full-time E85
Approx 180kw at the wheels by Coyote Tuning with VF46 turbo
Touch-up tune by Matt/Kido (incl gearbox pressure mod)



Ignore the torque dip - this tune was pre gearbox rebuild and it was slipping.

---

January 2023 "VF52 and new engine" E85 tune:



214.6 kilowatts (288hp) on the 16psi "high boost" tune.
186.1kw (250hp) on the 13psi "low boost" tune.

Printed air-fuel ratios are not representative. See notes in post on page 7.

[Yowie]

Worn clutch packs from the auto transmission rebuild. Apparently they should all be that golden colour, but are grey when worn.

[Yowie]

With the amount the intercooler was being taken on and off, i wasn't happy with the amount of wear & tear on the alloy turbo flange threads, so I replaced the OEM bolts with off-the-shelf Supercheap Auto steel studs.

[Yowie]

After the switch to E85, the rubber vacuum hoses attached to the turbo swelled and leaked air (causing a pretty wild ride with no boost control for a few days until diagnosed), necessitating replacement silicone vacuum lines. I recommend checking boost control vacuum line condition as part of regular maintenance!



(it's compulsory for Qld Subarus to use a maroon boost rag)

[Yowie]

For the crank case gasses I've mounted a Mishimoto "compact" catch can on the passenger-side strut tower.






I've milled out some of the thick base to save weight:-



...and modified the internals for better filtration by adding threads to the "dirty air entry hole", then a barbed fitting, then some steel wool for the return leg:-






The valve cover breathers' catch can lives next to the radiator, under the air intake snorkel:-

[Yowie]

Current gauge setup is the AEM air-fuel ratio gauge, the Autometer mechanical boost gauge and the SPA Designs dual digital temp gauge (oil and water):-



The AEM "X-series" gauge is very flat, so it mounts "piggyback style" on the boost gauge mount on this figure-8 bracket my wife and I designed (her manipulating the computer, me giving annoying directions over her shoulder) which I then got water-jet-cut out of 2mm alloy sheet then powder-coated:-



I'll probably run a second figure-8 bracket on the right to mount an AEM oil pressure gauge when funds permit.

If the Figure-8 bracket design is of use to you I can probably assist.





The "high-mount" and "low mount" positions are shown. "High mount" stays out of the air vent stream on the right, but either position is fine on the left. I also have a "mid mount" version.

[Yowie]

In stock form the forester doesn't have a water temperature gauge - it just has a light that is blue below 50 degrees and red when you're overheated. There is no oil temp sensing.

I went with a Spa Design dual digital temperature gauge ( https://www.spa-uk.co.uk/Products/ViewProds/100 ) for maximum readable info in the one gauge.

The oil temp sender is screwed into the rear gallery plug location near the turbo (which is a **** to get to).

I'm quite pleased with my solution to monitoring coolant temperature. You've heard of the throttle body coolant bypass mod. This is a variation that re-routes the coolant through a mini-manifold:-



The "Cusco blue" fitting is an off-the-shelf Repco air tools item with five BSP-threaded holes in it (deepened with a BSP tap). In the above pic you can see (clockwise from 9 o'clock):-

- the coolant inlet (?) barb
- the temp sensor screwed into an NPT to BSP adapter screwed into the blue housing
- the coolant outlet (?) barb with a piece of hose on it
- a BSP plug with a hole tapped in it to accept a small screw and ring-crimp fitting for the earth wire connection
- a BSP plug



Here is the coolant sensor assembly mounted on the gearbox housing near the starter motor.

I preferred this approach to cutting a radiator hose and adding an adapter. When you add up the cost of brass fittings etc, my solution isn't cheaper, but it is invisible.

[Yowie]

As noted in the list in the first post, the exhaust is:-

- an XForce dump pipe with catalytic converter;
- a Custom mild steel mid pipe (2x louvered 2.5" resonators); and
- 2x 2.5" mild steel tri-flow mufflers with stainless tips.

I'm very happy with the "subtle but sporty" sound. I'm not so happy with the quality of welding from the shop that did the work. Also, stainless would be better for corrosion-resistance (if louder due to thinner walls). It still works however.





The X-force dump pipe has a handy bung that can be replaced with an 02 sensor. I've cut a hole in the Perrin blanket to fit it.

[Yowie]

A common issue with aftermarket turbo inlet pipes is that the OEM plastic engine cover wont fit properly anymore.

Here I've done a "power bulge" by raising the black steel bracket that supports the engine cover:-
- via bolt/nut extender on the right; and
- moving the bracket up via the slotted hole where it mounts to the alternator.





When you're finished the engine cover fits neatly, albeit slightly higher at the front for clearance.

[Yowie]

As mentioned in post 1, i use an FB25 oil filter for more filter media compared to the stubby EJ25 oil filter.

For those interested, see the cut-open oil filters below:-



L-R that's a stock (used) OEM EJ25 oil filter, the Ryco equivalent (note less media) and the Ryco equivalent FB25 oil filter.




I only use the OEM oil filters now because both Ryco filters' bypass valve (indicated by the screwdriver) are much weaker than OEM - i.e. they will let accumulated rubbish from the dome-end of the filter straight into your engine at much lower oil pressure (eg high revs and/or cold oil) than OEM.

[Yowie]

Before installation, I got the VF46 mildly opened up on the intake side:-



...and got some die grinding done to put a bit of a ramp on the far side of the turbine housing after the wastegate turn-off. The theory being that the gasses race across the wastegate hole and hit a smooth ramp rather than a right-angle. Who knows if there is a meaningful difference from it.

[Yowie]

With all the horror-stories about E85 floating around, I got my fuel filter changed n000 kms after the switch to E85. The old filter is cut open in the pic below:-



Apart from some minor staining, there is nothing to report. Hardly the handfuls of goop from the rest of the fuel system that E85 was rumoured to dislodge after the switch.

[Yowie]

OEM Intake Snorkel-Rest lip removal

I'm not sure if this is similar on a Liberty - someone please let me know.

On the forester there is a plastic rest/insert that snaps into the metal bodywork above the radiator. The intake snorkel rests on it.

Incoming air has to get past this nasty 5mm lip:-



Why is the lip there? Take your pick from "part rigidity", "noise attenuation" or "molding limits" I suppose.


The plastic lip seemed to be a good candidate for some attention from a carbide bur. The part is sold as a Dremel accessory, but I used it in a cordless drill.




Here are some pictures showing the extent of the restriction with half removed and half in place:-





(apologies for the focus issues in that one)


Here are some pics with the full lip removal completed and the part reinstalled:-








Will it make a difference to efficiency & airflow? I would think so on basic principles. Would that be measurable on a dyno? probably not, but few "1%" efficiency improvements would be.

It is free and only took me about an hour, including some incidental de-burring and right-angle blending with a hobby knife.

[bigBADbenny]

Bring it ON!
So much thoughtful commentary and so comforting to see the fierce yowie profile pic again!

[bigBADbenny]

Coupla things:
Are you using BtSSM yet?
Its great to have full ssm logging via rear defrost button, and LV, whenever you like!

Have you tried facelift Mazda rx8 Tokyo Roki oil filters?

The KAP catch can has a barely sealed plate between left & right sides, from your pic it looks like you might be filtering the heads through this plate (diametrically opposed ports).

Obviously the best way to confirm if your catch can systems are working properly is to put a vacuum/boost gauge on an oil cap modified with a fitting for vacuum hose, or into tees on the inlet returns. (As per FlatIrons again https://www.flatironstuning.com/blog/an ... aru-engine)

I have one of those Perrin inlets to install, I prefer it over the AVO inlet I also have, because it retains the crank case breather return next to the compressor inlet, which according to FlatIrons, provides maximum vaccum on that return port.