Member Profile - James' GT spec B Wagon - GTB013

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Re: Member Profile - James' GT spec B Wagon - GTB013

Postby BMCracer » Wed Mar 18, 2020 9:16 pm

Can you give us a run-through of how you did the light strips inside the front headlights please? Are they used as DRL's?
2007 NZ new 3.0 Spec B 5EAT wagon in Brilliant Silver 39D
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Re: Member Profile - James' GT spec B Wagon - GTB013

Postby jamescd » Wed Mar 18, 2020 9:50 pm

Page 3 has a decent run through, but if you have a specific question let me know.
I use them as DRLs, and they are also switchback sequential indicators.

EDIT: I forgot to add that my indicators aren't as bright as I would like, so I'll probably be taking my lights apart and making some custom LED boards for in the indicator section of the light.
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Re: Member Profile - James' GT spec B Wagon - GTB013

Postby jamescd » Mon May 11, 2020 12:37 pm

Another update, I've slowly had parts arriving (that won't be going on for a while)

TGV deletes
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Fuel rails
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Injectors
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Just fuel lines/fpr to get and my new fueling system will be ready.

Something that I actually did fit, is a fuel pump wiring harness from Ryder Racing
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All the usual fuel pump removal stuff
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Holes drilled in the cover for wire grommets
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Holes drilled in the fuel pump cover (don't drill where I did, one of the holes is right in the way of the cover bracket)
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Bulkheads and wires connected. The bulkheads are a bit different on the Liberty compared to the wrx as the Libertys have plastic covers with reinforcement pieces but it still works
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Grounds connected
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Find the fuel pump power wire to use as the trigger (I used a multimeter, the power wire is the Green with a yellow stripe)
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Power and ground connected to the bulkheads
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Pump assembly back in (you can see where I had to cut the bracket). At this point I also checked to make sure that my wiring was correct by checking to make sure the pump started when the ignition was on.
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Cover back on
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Tidy the wiring and run power to the battery, I ran mine down the side of the car with the rest of the loom.
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Finally put the seat back and make sure your car starts
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I did forget to delete the code for the stock fuel pump, so I got a CEL because the ECU isn't getting the correct voltage (no surprises there)
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I was also having a stumble, from about 2-3krpm the car would fall on its face.

After some diagnostics, I thought it was one of the AVCS solenoids, luckily I had a spare which I could swap over.

While a bit of a pain, it wasn't too awful to swap, just had to remove one section of fmic piping and pull off a breather line on each side.
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What is annoying is that it hasn't fixed the problem. I've cleaned the maf, put a can of uec through, and reset the ECU. I'll check all the grounds and probably end up changing plugs and coils.



I also fixed and fit my LED tail lights, I like how they tie into the rest of the car's look.
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I am also DAMDless at the moment, but hopefully that will be remedied as soon as my wheel gets back... Here's a sneak peek:
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I bought an auto dimming mirror.
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Upon going to fit it I found that AUDM cars don't seem to have the convenient plug for the mirror to clip straight into like their USDM counterparts. I initially had some trouble finding a wiring diagram, but I found a forum post which said that in their car
Blue=switched +12
Green=+12 when in reverse
Black=ground

I didn't realise the mirror came with an inbuilt compass, but I was only able to find a compass zone map from Subaru for North America (Given the mirror seems to have been a Subaru of America option, not hugely surprising).
After a bit of searching I found a Hyundai map list which included Australia, I double checked that the US zones were the same for Hyundai and Subaru to make sure the Australian zones would also work out. For ease (hopefully) of people who may be doing this in the future I have included the map for Australia below.
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Before going too far (running wires etc) I decided to see if the mirror actually mounted to the windscreen button... No luck.
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It seems that other Subarus and the USDM Legacys use a different mounting type which have adapters which are easy to find. After a fair bit of sleuthing online I found that a lot of Audis and VW seem to use a very similar system to attach the mirror, using that I could find an adapter for the mirror itself. AMB1 is an adapter for Gator dashcam mirrors to Audi, but the mounting style looks the same as the dimming mirror so I ordered one to see if it would work or could be made to work. The adapter arrived and it needed some modification to fit, with a bit of dremeling it slipped over the windscreen mount. Unfortunately it seems that on the cars with these mirrors the windscreen mount is lower down than on cars without them so I was unable to put the mirror into an appropriate position.
Not sure what I'll do there, but I'll figure something out eventually.



Still no further progress on the turbo oil issue, I completely re-routed the catch cans, this made no difference. I double checked the oil turbo feed and the banjo hole looks to be 1mm (I figured this wouldn't be the issue as it used to be fine and is what came with the turbo).
It definitely seems like a crankcase pressure problem. I have borrowed a boost gauge and made a crankcase pressure tester, but so far I haven't had any conclusive results.
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I really hope it is a plumbing issue, and not a bad piston rings problem.
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Re: Member Profile - James' GT spec B Wagon - GTB013

Postby Yowie » Mon May 11, 2020 9:30 pm

Cool car and build thread.

How much of an embuggerance was replacing the valve cover gaskets?
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Re: Member Profile - James' GT spec B Wagon - GTB013

Postby jamescd » Mon May 11, 2020 10:41 pm

It was enough of a pain that I only did the leaking side at the time.

It's doable, but it is a definite embuggerance. Just not much room to do anything.
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Re: Member Profile - James' GT spec B Wagon - GTB013

Postby bigBADbenny » Sat May 16, 2020 8:09 am

Great update!
Love it :)

I did my drivers side rocker cover gasket a few years ago and my passenger side just recently, twice!
Yes I pinched the gasket on the first attempt.

Quite the odyssey, I’ll have to write it up on my own member profile :P

Can you make a diagram of your catch can routings?
It turns out that the stock system is more complex than I’d thought possible :shock:
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Re: Member Profile - James' GT spec B Wagon - GTB013

Postby jamescd » Sun May 17, 2020 2:45 pm

Yeah, I have made a bit of a diagram for how the catch cans run
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Re: Member Profile - James' GT spec B Wagon - GTB013

Postby Yowie » Sun May 17, 2020 9:33 pm

Interesting. My 2 catch can setup is similar, except for my right-hand catch being "full time crank breather" and having its own path to the pre-turbo pipe or PCV (via a T-piece going from the catch can to either the PVC valve or the pre-turbo pipe depending on vacuum/boost conditions) - see pic below.

For your setup:-

(a) under vacuum conditions your right-hand catch can filters crank gas and returns cleaner air to the manifold via the PVC. Your valve breathers vent through the left-hand can then into the pre-turbo pipe. ;

(b) under boost conditions your crank case venting avoids the right-hand can altogether and goes through the left-hand catch can to get to the pre-turbo pipe (sharing the left-hand catch can with the valve cover breathers).

I've never properly understood what occurs if the two systems (crank gas & valve cover gas) cross-pollinate prior to the pre-turbo pipe.


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My crank breather (only) catch can routing. Picture taken years ago.
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Re: Member Profile - James' GT spec B Wagon - GTB013

Postby bigBADbenny » Sun May 17, 2020 11:28 pm

On an ej255, there’s the head to crankcase balance pipes which should equalise pressure between those vents.

Ultimately imho, effective blow-by scavenging is attained by the venturi effect on the blow-by return at the turbo inlet pipe, and by reducing the breather hose restrictions, length and bends. Perhaps it’s less of a venturi effect and just the vacuum created between the air filter and the compressor.

It follows that checking crankcase vacuum at the oil cap versus vacuum at the return to inlet would be one approach to confirming the effectiveness of any closed pcv system.
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Re: Member Profile - James' GT spec B Wagon - GTB013

Postby jamescd » Mon May 18, 2020 9:03 am

Tell you what Benny, great information as always!

I have pinched my routing from looking at how radium and mishimoto recommend running their dual catch can setups. Your T piece deals with clean air, while mine is the dirty air, otherwise they're very similar setups.

I have got the head/crankcase crossover in place, but it could probably do with a revamp.

I also only have a single spot on the inlet to run a breather hose to, so they would need to be combined at some point before this anyway. I have also wondered whether the venturi effect would be greater if the inlet port was closer to the turbo.

I have probably missed some details as I have quickly typed this up on my phone at work
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Re: Member Profile - James' GT spec B Wagon - GTB013

Postby Yowie » Mon May 18, 2020 10:47 am

I also only have a single spot on the inlet to run a breather hose to, so they would need to be combined at some point before this anyway.


That makes a lot of sense - necessity through lack of pre-turbo pipe spigots overruling everything else.


I have also wondered whether the venturi effect would be greater if the inlet port was closer to the turbo.


I assume you are referencing that comment in the Flatirons video? A mate's project involved such considerations. Each of us separately spoke to different engineers who both said that the amount of vacuum in the pre-turbo pipe should be the same over its length (subject to disturbance caused by pipe irregularities).

As such, Flatirons' conclusion that there is more vacuum close to the compressor wheel and less vacuum further away doesn't seem to be supported by engineering theory. If Flatirons achieved better results moving the point-of-join closer, there may be other reasons for that.

If you only have the one pre-turbo pipe spigot it's all theoretical anyway.

Likewise, if both cans are draining fluid and your intact tract is cleaner than "without catch cans" then it must be working well enough for your application.
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Re: Member Profile - James' GT spec B Wagon - GTB013

Postby jamescd » Mon May 18, 2020 12:07 pm

Yowie wrote: I assume you are referencing that comment in the Flatirons video? A mate's project involved such considerations. Each of us separately spoke to different engineers who both said that the amount of vacuum in the pre-turbo pipe should be the same over its length (subject to disturbance caused by pipe irregularities).

As such, Flatirons' conclusion that there is more vacuum close to the compressor wheel and less vacuum further away doesn't seem to be supported by engineering theory. If Flatirons achieved better results moving the point-of-join closer, there may be other reasons for that.


You're spot on that that is why I was thinking that. It does make sense that the whole length of pipe would see the same vacuum.


Likewise, if both cans are draining fluid and your intact tract is cleaner than "without catch cans" then it must be working well enough for your application.


They are cleaning the air, my concern with them is that it's causing a crankcase pressure issue which is leading to my turbo oil drain/smoke problem. I basically just need to pull my finger out and take it for a drive with the crankcase pressure tester hooked up.
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Re: Member Profile - James' GT spec B Wagon - GTB013

Postby Yowie » Mon May 18, 2020 12:22 pm

One would think that (under boost conditions) the vaccuum from the pre-turbo pipe would be strong enough to draw both types of venting - as opposed to one type of vented gas reverting back down into the engine via the left hand catch can as a crossover point or something. Hard to be sure.


Probably after you test crankcase pressure (to the extent that reliable results can be discovered from road driving), another experiment could be to:-

(a) create an extra spigot fitting on your post-maf pipe (or buy a silicone replacement for this experiment) - eg with "screw down" fittings and/or the right sort of goo this should be airtight enough;

(b) route your right-hand can directly to the sole spigot on the pre-turbo pipe (bypassing the left-hand catch can entirely);

(c) route the "clean air" hose from the left-hand can to the new spigot in the post-maf pipe.


(I believe the factory setup has the valve cover breather plugging in to the pre-turbo pipe further back anyway.)

The experiment might show a difference (or no difference) between a "cross-pollinating" setup versus a setup where each source of vented gas has an independent path to the pre-turbo pipe.

Obviously this is just a 5-minute thought bubble from me - totally up to you what windmills you want to charge at with experimentation. :P
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Re: Member Profile - James' GT spec B Wagon - GTB013

Postby bigBADbenny » Mon May 18, 2020 12:36 pm

Its a consideration, as I mentioned, that the length of the pipes, any bends, tee’s, reductions etc will increase drag or restriction on the system as a whole.

Eg a bend or tee can double the effective hose length.

That’s why teeing a vac ref hose in, close to the inlet return, might yield clues, along with the oil cap test.
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Re: Member Profile - James' GT spec B Wagon - GTB013

Postby jamescd » Mon May 18, 2020 1:45 pm

Yeah, there is definitely a lot of trouble shooting to be done. It'll get there, just need to go over everything with a fine-toothed comb essentially.

I also forgot to mention that my bulkhead fittings are leaking, but a quick message to Ryder and he has let me know what I need to do (basically machine down a section of the underside of the fuel pump assembly) which I'll do once I pickup the right bit.

I also fit another exterior part, my K2Gear wing extension.
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