**Mods could you please move this to the how to section**
Hi All,
I spent a long time googling for a decent write up on how to do this but didn't find anything helpful.
With a bit of advice from Skyrex from Ozfoz via PM I had a go at it last weekend.
What are we doing? Removing the 2 intake banjo bolts from a 2.5L 2009 Forester XTP (manual) to remove the plastic oil filters - This is identical to the system on the Liberty but I'm not sure exactly what models, hopefully someone can fill that in for me. Also removing Oil Control Valves (OCV's) also known as AVCS solenoids to test and inspect.
Why would we be doing this? My car is suffering from intermittent hesitation between 1000-2000rpm and eventually threw a CEL code P0011: INTAKE CAMSHAFT POSITION - TIMING OVER-ADVANCED OR SYSTEM PERFORMANCE (BANK 1). From doing some research on the net these 2 symptoms were often attributed to blocked filters in the AVCS banjo bolts or failing OCV's in the AVCS system.
FYI: Bank 1 is the right hand side of the engine on the 2.5L (Bank 1 relates to the side which the number 1 cylinder is on).
If you got a CEL code P0021 this is exactly the same as P0011 however it relates to the left hand side of the system (bank 2).
Time and difficulty: 3 hours for me doing it the first time. Not overly difficult but the first time around it will take a bit of time to find what you're looking for and work out what tools you have that will actually fit.
Process for Right Hand Side
Step 1: Remove the intake shroud that leads into the airbox and the Short Fat Bit (SFB) running form your airbox.
Step 2: Undo the bolt holding the coolant tank in place and gently lift the tank out of the way (leave hoses attached).
Step 3: (If removing OCV continue reading, if only removing banjo bolts skip to Step 6)
Pull the pictured tube off the engine to give yourself clearance when removing the OCV.
If you're clumsy maybe place something over the hole so that nothing falls down there.
Step 4: Unplug the blue clip from the OCV and undo the 1 bolt on top of the OCV that's holding it in place. Now you just need to widdle and pry the OCV backwards (towards the firewall) and it should slide out. I just a screwdriver for leverage, be gentle.
It will slide most of the way out and then you'll have to rotate it about 90 degrees for it to come the whole way.
Step 5: Testing the OCV with a 9v battery and 2 wires. This is very simple. 1 wire on each battery terminal and touch them on the terminals of the OCV. If it moves about 5mm then it is working. As you can see I did this on my green work bench which the council provided.
I then cleaned this part with Subaru's Upper Engine Cleaner (UEC) before dipping it in fresh oil and re-installing. Others have used WD40 for cleaning. Mine seemed fine so it was probably unnecessary but I did it anyway.
Note - Even though both of my OCV's passed this test it is apparent that the drivers side is still failing intermittently hence I am replacing it. Details regarding ordering new parts will be in the notes at the end of this post.
Step 6: Removing the RHS banjo bolt. This is tricky only because of the bracket that covers up the top of the banjo bolt. Some have suggested removing the bracket but the bolts are in very awkward locations and I gave up trying to get them out.
My method involved bending the bracket as much as I could with a pair of pliers and using a dremel to grind out a bit more room for a 17mm socket.
If you have a 17mm spanner it may fit and negate the need to modify the bracket however I only had sockets so this is what I did.
I marked the top of the banjo bolt so I new roughly how tight to do it back up.
I reused the 2 copper crush washers that were in there and so far it hasn't leaked, I just tightened it up a little more than what it was originally. See notes at the bottom for details regarding crush washers.
Step 7: Inspect the banjo bolt for the plastic filter. If it is not in the banjo bolt it may have stayed behind in the void that the bolt came from so check in there too. If you're like me then the filter has already been removed and you just wasted about an hour trying to get to it.
Step 8: Re-install banjo bolt tightening it to just beyond where it was originally to ensure a seal with your re-used crush washers (you tightarse).
Try and bend the bracket back in place, ensuring it's clear of anything it may rub on.
Put your OCV back in including the bolt to hold it there. Clip it in place (if you don't this will throw another code as I realised later that afternoon) and plug in that hose you pulled out of the engine.
Bolt the coolant tank back in place and ensure that the airways are clean before reinstalling the SFB.
RHS is complete.
Step 4: Remove the 3 bolts holding the air pump in place. Now squeeze the hose clamp that holds the pump to the bit of plastic we undid in step 2 with a pair of pliers and pry them apart to create some room for yourself. There's also a big grey plug in this area but I couldn't get mine undone so I left it where it was.
Step 5: Now you can see the banjo bolt and OCV, remove the tube on the engine closest to the OCV plug (same as the Step 4 for RHS). Undo the bolt holding the OCV in place and wiggle it free, same as RHS. Now test it just like in Step 5 for RHS.
Step 6: Once again mark the location of the banjo bolt and remove. This time I didn't need to modify any brackets but the socket I used did have to sit on a slight angle. If you had a 17mm spanner it would probably make life easier. Following Step 6 for RHS check for the plastic filter. Once again mine was gone already.
Step 7: Put everything back together and hope that you haven't created any new problems while trying to conquer this.
For what it's worth this is what the banjo filter would look like if you had one:
Notes:
- As mentioned testing the OCV with a 9v battery will only show if the part is 100% dead. In my case is operated normally however it still fails intermittently hence I am replacing it anyway.
- Refer to this thread for more information and for details regarding logging AVCS to determine if it is definitely failing (tactrix required)
http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=20233
- OCV part number for 2009 Foz XT: 10921AA080 ($57.03US each (OEM) from Partsouq)
- Crush washer part number for 2009 Foz XT: 803912040 ($0.40US each (OEM) from Partsouq)