DIY / HOW TO - AVCS Banjo Filter and OCV Solenoid Removal

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DIY / HOW TO - AVCS Banjo Filter and OCV Solenoid Removal

Postby twisties » Thu May 14, 2015 4:11 pm

**Mods could you please move this to the how to section**

Hi All,

I spent a long time googling for a decent write up on how to do this but didn't find anything helpful.
With a bit of advice from Skyrex from Ozfoz via PM I had a go at it last weekend.

What are we doing? Removing the 2 intake banjo bolts from a 2.5L 2009 Forester XTP (manual) to remove the plastic oil filters - This is identical to the system on the Liberty but I'm not sure exactly what models, hopefully someone can fill that in for me. Also removing Oil Control Valves (OCV's) also known as AVCS solenoids to test and inspect.

Why would we be doing this? My car is suffering from intermittent hesitation between 1000-2000rpm and eventually threw a CEL code P0011: INTAKE CAMSHAFT POSITION - TIMING OVER-ADVANCED OR SYSTEM PERFORMANCE (BANK 1). From doing some research on the net these 2 symptoms were often attributed to blocked filters in the AVCS banjo bolts or failing OCV's in the AVCS system.

FYI: Bank 1 is the right hand side of the engine on the 2.5L (Bank 1 relates to the side which the number 1 cylinder is on).
If you got a CEL code P0021 this is exactly the same as P0011 however it relates to the left hand side of the system (bank 2).

Time and difficulty: 3 hours for me doing it the first time. Not overly difficult but the first time around it will take a bit of time to find what you're looking for and work out what tools you have that will actually fit.

Process for Right Hand Side

Step 1: Remove the intake shroud that leads into the airbox and the Short Fat Bit (SFB) running form your airbox.

Image

Step 2: Undo the bolt holding the coolant tank in place and gently lift the tank out of the way (leave hoses attached).

Image

Step 3: (If removing OCV continue reading, if only removing banjo bolts skip to Step 6)
Pull the pictured tube off the engine to give yourself clearance when removing the OCV.
If you're clumsy maybe place something over the hole so that nothing falls down there.

Image

Step 4: Unplug the blue clip from the OCV and undo the 1 bolt on top of the OCV that's holding it in place. Now you just need to widdle and pry the OCV backwards (towards the firewall) and it should slide out. I just a screwdriver for leverage, be gentle.
It will slide most of the way out and then you'll have to rotate it about 90 degrees for it to come the whole way.

Step 5: Testing the OCV with a 9v battery and 2 wires. This is very simple. 1 wire on each battery terminal and touch them on the terminals of the OCV. If it moves about 5mm then it is working. As you can see I did this on my green work bench which the council provided.
I then cleaned this part with Subaru's Upper Engine Cleaner (UEC) before dipping it in fresh oil and re-installing. Others have used WD40 for cleaning. Mine seemed fine so it was probably unnecessary but I did it anyway.
Note - Even though both of my OCV's passed this test it is apparent that the drivers side is still failing intermittently hence I am replacing it. Details regarding ordering new parts will be in the notes at the end of this post.

Image

Step 6: Removing the RHS banjo bolt. This is tricky only because of the bracket that covers up the top of the banjo bolt. Some have suggested removing the bracket but the bolts are in very awkward locations and I gave up trying to get them out.
My method involved bending the bracket as much as I could with a pair of pliers and using a dremel to grind out a bit more room for a 17mm socket.
If you have a 17mm spanner it may fit and negate the need to modify the bracket however I only had sockets so this is what I did.
I marked the top of the banjo bolt so I new roughly how tight to do it back up.
I reused the 2 copper crush washers that were in there and so far it hasn't leaked, I just tightened it up a little more than what it was originally. See notes at the bottom for details regarding crush washers.

Image

Step 7: Inspect the banjo bolt for the plastic filter. If it is not in the banjo bolt it may have stayed behind in the void that the bolt came from so check in there too. If you're like me then the filter has already been removed and you just wasted about an hour trying to get to it.

Image

Step 8: Re-install banjo bolt tightening it to just beyond where it was originally to ensure a seal with your re-used crush washers (you tightarse).
Try and bend the bracket back in place, ensuring it's clear of anything it may rub on.
Put your OCV back in including the bolt to hold it there. Clip it in place (if you don't this will throw another code as I realised later that afternoon) and plug in that hose you pulled out of the engine.
Bolt the coolant tank back in place and ensure that the airways are clean before reinstalling the SFB.
RHS is complete.

Step 4: Remove the 3 bolts holding the air pump in place. Now squeeze the hose clamp that holds the pump to the bit of plastic we undid in step 2 with a pair of pliers and pry them apart to create some room for yourself. There's also a big grey plug in this area but I couldn't get mine undone so I left it where it was.

Image

Step 5: Now you can see the banjo bolt and OCV, remove the tube on the engine closest to the OCV plug (same as the Step 4 for RHS). Undo the bolt holding the OCV in place and wiggle it free, same as RHS. Now test it just like in Step 5 for RHS.

Image

Step 6: Once again mark the location of the banjo bolt and remove. This time I didn't need to modify any brackets but the socket I used did have to sit on a slight angle. If you had a 17mm spanner it would probably make life easier. Following Step 6 for RHS check for the plastic filter. Once again mine was gone already.

Step 7: Put everything back together and hope that you haven't created any new problems while trying to conquer this.

For what it's worth this is what the banjo filter would look like if you had one:
Image

Notes:
- As mentioned testing the OCV with a 9v battery will only show if the part is 100% dead. In my case is operated normally however it still fails intermittently hence I am replacing it anyway.
- Refer to this thread for more information and for details regarding logging AVCS to determine if it is definitely failing (tactrix required)
http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=20233
- OCV part number for 2009 Foz XT: 10921AA080 ($57.03US each (OEM) from Partsouq)
- Crush washer part number for 2009 Foz XT: 803912040 ($0.40US each (OEM) from Partsouq)
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Re: DIY / HOW TO - AVCS Banjo Filter and OCV Solenoid Remova

Postby bigBADbenny » Thu May 14, 2015 4:43 pm

Nice one :)
In a 2.5T Liberty the RHS fuel rail guard can simply be bent by hand about 30 degrees to the RHS.
The RHS OCV will rifle bolt action to slide out, eg pull, twist, pull a bit more to release.
The guard can be bent back to its original position with an adjustable wrench once done.

For 2.5T lib, the air pump can stay in place, but its handy to disconnect the harness and push it out of the way.

IIRC the RHS banjo filter might be at the oil gallery point under the turbo inlet pipe on top of the block (2.5T)
IIRC the LHS banjo might be at the front of the block on the inside RHS of the LHS inlet cam gear (2.5T)
That's according to info from LGT.
Liberty club members with 2.0T dual avcs engines have found banjo filters in the exhaust cam OCV manifolds under the heads.

I'll have to ask eg Mr Bird or Mr South etc for the exact info - people who regularly stip EJ's.
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Re: DIY / HOW TO - AVCS Banjo Filter and OCV Solenoid Remova

Postby EVL20T » Thu May 14, 2015 6:20 pm

Awesome write up

I'm actually doing this tomorrow, I've already pulled them out and cleaned them but my left bank was still playing up

Also I was sure the post f/l didn't have the filters
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Re: DIY / HOW TO - AVCS Banjo Filter and OCV Solenoid Remova

Postby EVL20T » Thu May 14, 2015 7:59 pm

Also be a good help to write up the part numbers of the OCV soilenoids so that people only need to view this thread :D
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Re: DIY / HOW TO - AVCS Banjo Filter and OCV Solenoid Remova

Postby twisties » Fri May 15, 2015 9:05 am

I've mentioned the part numbers at the end of the post in the notes but I've only got the #'s for my car. I know these will fit many other models but I was a bit concerned about giving people the wrong numbers so I've left others out :)
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Re: DIY / HOW TO - AVCS Banjo Filter and OCV Solenoid Remova

Postby bigBADbenny » Fri May 15, 2015 9:18 am

Easy enough to check via the opposed forces link in my sig.
Here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/e ... tration_1/
Part 6 in the diagram :)
http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/10921AA080/
If you're not a lib 2.5t just backtrack through the site till you find your car, eg EDM rhd 2.0t etc...
Here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/e ... tration_1/


.
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Re: DIY / HOW TO - AVCS Banjo Filter and OCV Solenoid Remova

Postby EVL20T » Sat May 16, 2015 2:21 am

My Lib 07 GT Spec B uses the 10921AA080 also

Changed both of mine today with brand new items and now idles much smoother and no stutter when i take off :)

1 of my old ones are still fine, was just my left bank that was having issues, i changed both just for piece of mind
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Re: DIY / HOW TO - AVCS Banjo Filter and OCV Solenoid Remova

Postby twisties » Thu May 21, 2015 7:32 am

Update: I got my OVC's in the mail from Partsouq in about a week. Put the RHS in after work yesterday because that is the one I suspected was failing and I didn't have time to do the passenger side. So far there's a 99% improvement. The major hesitation/stutter is gone. I can't tell if there's still a slight bit of hesitation or if I'm just being hyper-sensitive because I'm looking for it. Either way I'm going to change the passenger side on the weekend.
Something else to note, and I don't know if this is just a coincidence or what, but having driven it for 1 day since putting the new part in my average fuel consumption has gone from 10.4L/100k down to 9.0L/100km. Come to think of it, I used to get in the 9's and it went up into the mid 10's ever since I started noticing this problem about 2 months ago.

Good luck to anyone else who's chasing this problem!
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Re: DIY / HOW TO - AVCS Banjo Filter and OCV Solenoid Remova

Postby crazyricochet » Thu Oct 29, 2015 8:00 pm

Just want to say thanks for the write up, used as a reference as I just finished replacing the OCVs on both sides!

One side was lagging behind the other so I just replaced both - they had done about 118,000km

The instant readout of degrees is now same on both sides as well as the logs, seems to have fixed some stuttering I had noticed on take off as well. :D
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Re: DIY / HOW TO - AVCS Banjo Filter and OCV Solenoid Remova

Postby HighTech RedNeck » Thu Oct 29, 2015 8:21 pm

After doing my rebuild i found another 2 on the oppisite ends of the 2 mentioned but 1 is on the front behind the timing cover and the other on the drivers side back
Speed doesn't kill its the sudden stop that does.
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Re: DIY / HOW TO - AVCS Banjo Filter and OCV Solenoid Remova

Postby phatmonk » Mon Jan 09, 2017 3:10 pm

Great write up. At step 5/6 I removed the oil filler, plugged the filler hole and had easy access to everything on the LHS.

My fuel consumption has gone up! The RHS was failing, replaced this first and tested. Went from 8/9 ltrs/100km to 10-13 ltrs/100km. Performance has increased dramatically so I'm not concerned. Stutter, hesitation and generally laggyness has gone.

Replaced the LHS for good measure.

Thanks for the great post.
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Re: DIY / HOW TO - AVCS Banjo Filter and OCV Solenoid Remova

Postby Shaheenis » Tue Jan 10, 2017 9:47 am

Very helpful thread twisties.

Couple of questions:

1) How much roughly are the solenoids each?
2) Was this obvious to see on AVCS logging graphs?

I have done 140K, don't have hesitation issues but have a slightly lumpy idle at a certain rev range (just off idle to maybe 2500rpm). I have been told that this is normal and to do with the cams or similar.
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Re: DIY / HOW TO - AVCS Banjo Filter and OCV Solenoid Remova

Postby skyrex » Thu Jan 12, 2017 7:36 am

Solenoids usually go for $60-70USD via partsouq.

It should be obvious, essentially you're looking for non-symmetrical graph between the two OCV's.
This is my original log from the old SH, you can see one is oscillating correctly where the other doesn't get all the way to peak timing advance with each "pulse" for the lack of a better term:
AVCS-log.PNG
AVCS-log.PNG (30.4 KiB) Viewed 18597 times


The issue described is usually at it's worst around 1300-1500rpm, we also experienced a bit of a twitch of sorts at idle.
Our current SH was bad to the point it would induce somewhat violent jerking/kangarooing of the car through car parks at low rpm/crawling pace.
First thought it was stuffed clutch/DMF flywheel it was that bad.

Took the OCV's out, cleaned them with WD40, swapped out one of them with a spare I had from the old SH and made a night and day difference, but is still not 100% fixed yet.

There are also more filters in the oil feed lines, the banjo's I first thought had the filters apparently don't... :oops:

Engine right side (your left when looking at the engine), tracing the oil feed line rearward toward the turbo, there is a banjo bolt right in front/below the turbo intake on top of the engine. You'll notice the head of the banjo bolt is not flat like the one near the OCV.
The proud cap on the bolt head indicates there is a filter inside.

Engine left side (passenger side in 'straya) the oil feed goes forward and tucks down behind the timing cam cover... which means the only way to get to it is via removing everything as you would a timing belt job, then removing the intake cam gear (possibly the exhaust gear also) to access the bolts holding the rear cam cover on to then get access to fully remove said banjo bolt.

There is another thread on here I believe someone created specific to the AVCS issue bigbadbenny username rings a bell...
Also has some other great info to ancillary issues which can affect the AVCS fuctioning correctly, etc. I actually googled looking for that and found this thread instead. :lol:

EDIT: Thread is this one viewtopic.php?f=18&t=20233
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Re: DIY / HOW TO - AVCS Banjo Filter and OCV Solenoid Remova

Postby Tommyt1 » Sat Sep 09, 2017 1:44 am

just wondering if this is same issue with my 2004/2005 liberty 2.0 gt? having same issues as posted here. is there 2 of these acvs valves or just the one? thanks
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Re: DIY / HOW TO - AVCS Banjo Filter and OCV Solenoid Remova

Postby bigBADbenny » Sat Sep 09, 2017 8:25 am

Four total on the dual avcs 2.0t prefl, 2 inlet, 2 exhaust.
You'll need to log the car to confirm inactivity (ocv etc fail) or oscillation/vvt angles delta (ocv etc failing).
Parts n diagnostic info here:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=34980
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