club.liberty.asn.au

bluedoors wrote:How easy was the grill work? I've wanted to do that for a while, but don't have the balls in case i stuff it up.

To put it plainly, I'm useless with cars and I found it pretty easy.

Getting the grille out is a few plastic pop-pins and 4 (from memory) screws on the back of the grille holding it to the front bumper. The hardest part is separating the chrome surrounds from the main body of the grille. The surrounds are held on with a heap of small screws (easy) and then clips which you have to use a small flathead screwdriver to try pry them away from the body without snapping them (not so easy). It's easy once you unclip a couple because the rest follow once there is some play.

Looks good Josh! I like what you did with the grille – makes the car look better already.

Thanks mate, I'm really happy with how it turned out. I couldn't really justify the $$ for an STi/Corazon grille!

Replacement GFB BOV installed today. Made a huge difference considering my factory one wasn't holding boost, now I can properly appreciate Matt's great work

If anyone was wondering, the replacement bolts up exactly in the stock location, my mechanic had no problems at all.

Part number is GFB T9033, universal 33mm inlet and outlet.

superjoshism wrote:Quick couple of pictures of the ride height with Eibach's incase anyone was curious (excuse the dirty car!). Personally I like the slight drop, as I'd still like to be able to cart around full boot loads of stuff/have passengers without bottoming out or crawling sideways over speed humps. Its enough to be noticeable and seeing as it was a toss up between these and STi pinks, I'm glad I chose these as I don't think the pinks would have been low enough.

Where did you get the springs from?

I got the springs from Amazon and then used a US parcel forwarder to get them back to Australia. You can get them here in Aus too, it was just cheaper at the time to get them from the states, even with the shipping. I don't know what the prices are like now though, with the Aussie dollar being down a fair bit

Any chance of getting a centre of wheel to bottom of guard measurement? They sit 390mm front and rear standard which is the same as my 3.6R 2010. I've received mixed info on actual drop.
Cheers

Artichoke wrote:Any chance of getting a centre of wheel to bottom of guard measurement? They sit 390mm front and rear standard which is the same as my 3.6R 2010. I've received mixed info on actual drop.
Cheers

Just went and had a quick measure in the garage then:

Rear 370mm
Front 390mm

Not sure where you got your standard figures from, but the drop on mine was definitely noticeable

Mind you, I also may not have been dead centre on the hub to get an accurate measurement...

Hi Josh:

nice work, I did plastic paint my grill too

with your planned combo of brake
DBA T2 front rotors - 2650S-10 - [Not yet purchased]
DBA T2 rear rotors - 2663S - [Not yet purchased]
QFM HPX pads - [Not yet purchased]
Braided brake lines - [Not yet purchased]

how good your recommend it will be, OEM subaru brake is so weak.
and also, is there big different with those strut bar, swaybar upgraded? i also heard Whiteline swaybar will make knocking noise, is it true?
also you mentioned GFB BOV, will it enhance a lot power?

sorry for so many Questions


Thx

sprite798 wrote:Hi Josh:

nice work, I did plastic paint my grill too

with your planned combo of brake
DBA T2 front rotors - 2650S-10 - [Not yet purchased]
DBA T2 rear rotors - 2663S - [Not yet purchased]
QFM HPX pads - [Not yet purchased]
Braided brake lines - [Not yet purchased]

how good your recommend it will be, OEM subaru brake is so weak.
and also, is there big different with those strut bar, swaybar upgraded? i also heard Whiteline swaybar will make knocking noise, is it true?
also you mentioned GFB BOV, will it enhance a lot power?

sorry for so many Questions


Thx

Thanks, good job mate!

I'm no expert on brakes, but the T2's, better pads, and braided lines should provide a noticeable upgrade in stopping power, and more importantly (for me anyway) pedal feel. I certainly won't be tracking my car, but even enough spirited driving can make me lose confidence in the factory setup.

The strut bars aren't a big difference, but I noticed the car did tighten up slightly once I installed them. It's stiff enough now that I get some creaking from the rear when I slowly pull into my driveway because of the bar in the boot. Don't know where you heard about the Whiteline bars knocking, but mine haven't at all. The end links in the front have knocked once or twice (this may be what you're referring to), but I haven't really noticed it any other time. I'd be worried if the bar itself started knocking...

The BOV/BPV does nothing for power. I only replaced it because my factory one was stuffed and wouldn't hold boost. The upgraded GFB unit does hold some boost in the system during gear changes, so the turbo spools up slightly faster when you get back on the accelerator, but that's it.

superjoshism wrote:

sprite798 wrote:Hi Josh:

nice work, I did plastic paint my grill too

with your planned combo of brake
DBA T2 front rotors - 2650S-10 - [Not yet purchased]
DBA T2 rear rotors - 2663S - [Not yet purchased]
QFM HPX pads - [Not yet purchased]
Braided brake lines - [Not yet purchased]

how good your recommend it will be, OEM subaru brake is so weak.
and also, is there big different with those strut bar, swaybar upgraded? i also heard Whiteline swaybar will make knocking noise, is it true?
also you mentioned GFB BOV, will it enhance a lot power?

sorry for so many Questions


Thx

Thanks, good job mate!

I'm no expert on brakes, but the T2's, better pads, and braided lines should provide a noticeable upgrade in stopping power, and more importantly (for me anyway) pedal feel. I certainly won't be tracking my car, but even enough spirited driving can make me lose confidence in the factory setup.

The strut bars aren't a big difference, but I noticed the car did tighten up slightly once I installed them. It's stiff enough now that I get some creaking from the rear when I slowly pull into my driveway because of the bar in the boot. Don't know where you heard about the Whiteline bars knocking, but mine haven't at all. The end links in the front have knocked once or twice (this may be what you're referring to), but I haven't really noticed it any other time. I'd be worried if the bar itself started knocking...

The BOV/BPV does nothing for power. I only replaced it because my factory one was stuffed and wouldn't hold boost. The upgraded GFB unit does hold some boost in the system during gear changes, so the turbo spools up slightly faster when you get back on the accelerator, but that's it.

Thank you for your answers, help me a lot

superjoshism wrote:Quick update!

S&J added spacers for the front end links this morning and the car feels a lot better now, although I haven't got under the car for a look yet. I also discovered that they didn't install the lateral locks which came with my rear sway bar, so they chucked them on for me too. Finally I can go for a spirited drive without worrying that the bushes are going to chew out

Edit: Just got under the car before heading out to lunch, and they look worse with the spacers!

Raced down to a local Pedders near my place and had a chat to them about the end links. They agreed its either more spacers to even the links out or go back to stock links because of the spherical bearings. I've ordered a set of spacers from Kartboy to hopefully resolve the problem. I also grabbed 2 new sets of bushes for the tops of the links, as the ones in there now are getting pinched like hell with the angle they're at.

Edit 4/3/15: Had my mechanic install a set of Kartboy spacers and new top bushes for the endlinks. Much better now, the angle of the endlinks was so severe that 2 bushes had already split

Hi Josh,

I'm thinking of going to S&J to get a Whiteline rear sway bar installed on my GT wagon but this post seems a bit concerning. Would you still recommend them for this job? They've got a pretty good rep but seems like this was a bit of a balls up!

Owey wrote:

superjoshism wrote:Quick update!

S&J added spacers for the front end links this morning and the car feels a lot better now, although I haven't got under the car for a look yet. I also discovered that they didn't install the lateral locks which came with my rear sway bar, so they chucked them on for me too. Finally I can go for a spirited drive without worrying that the bushes are going to chew out

Edit: Just got under the car before heading out to lunch, and they look worse with the spacers!

Raced down to a local Pedders near my place and had a chat to them about the end links. They agreed its either more spacers to even the links out or go back to stock links because of the spherical bearings. I've ordered a set of spacers from Kartboy to hopefully resolve the problem. I also grabbed 2 new sets of bushes for the tops of the links, as the ones in there now are getting pinched like hell with the angle they're at.

Edit 4/3/15: Had my mechanic install a set of Kartboy spacers and new top bushes for the endlinks. Much better now, the angle of the endlinks was so severe that 2 bushes had already split

Hi Josh,

I'm thinking of going to S&J to get a Whiteline rear sway bar installed on my GT wagon but this post seems a bit concerning. Would you still recommend them for this job? They've got a pretty good rep but seems like this was a bit of a balls up!

Personally, I won't be going back there. They are extremely pricey, and something I didn't mention is that when I got all of my suspension parts put in they didn't even give me the option of keeping all the stock parts, they just took them...

For a rear sway bar, I'd do it yourself if you have tools/room. In hindsight I would have done the rear myself, it really doesn't look hard.

Others may have different personal experiences with S&J, but mine hasn't been good at all so needless to say I will just be taking my parts into my regular mechanic from now on.

Caught up with Matt on Friday night for a quick retune. I was having a few issues with the DBW maps (S# was set to 100% throttle when the pedal was only 60% etc). Matt smoothed out the DBW for all 3 modes and they are all pretty much the same now. Everything is much more predictable when I mash the go pedal now.

Can't recommend him highly enough

Quick update,

I let temptation get the better of me after browsing around the LegacyGT site and ended up making a little purchase...

Perrin Brass Shifter Bushing - PSP-INR-016 (also requires 2015 WRX transmission washer, Subaru P/N 031208006)
Whiteline Positive Shift Kit - KDT901
Whiteline Rear Crossmember Inserts - KDT902
Whiteline Rear Diff Inserts - KDT903
STI Group N Transmission Mount (5mt) - D1010FE020
Perrin Shifter Stop - PSP-INR-018
Clutch Damper Delete (replaces damper in driver’s foot well with union join) – Subaru P/N 37255AJ000
Perrin Short Shifter Adapter - PSP-INR-201

I've updated the first post of this thread for easy reference. Hopefully getting this all put in soon, just waiting on the parts to arrive from Car Mods Australia and the Subaru parts to get here from the USA.

This serves as a bit of an FYI for everyone, it turns out that the STI 5spd Group-N trans mount fits the GenV with the 6spd box. It's quite a common mod over on LegacyGT.

Stay tuned...