club.liberty.asn.au

jslayz wrote:What is the part number for the Whiteline ones please ?

Need to redo mine as the Ikeya formula got split when an idiot at Beau...... did an alignment

KTA124 - You might also want KCA307 The toe lock bolt kit. What a pain in the butt. The kit is about $430

Thanks got the kca307 in already

Time for an update!
Few bits and pieces:


Cracked a rim - sadly they don't make 18x8.5 Koya Drift Tek anymore


So I picked up a cheap set of rashed rota gravels


AVCS oil leak -


UV petrol/oil dye for finding leaks!


Sadly there was a mistake made and the splitter I had on the car died, so I replaced it with a genuine STi lip, and I got some spats too.


Picked up a JDM coin box!


Refurbished the rotas, heaps of work, but they look *so* much better.


Looks good!


Got some goodies for later - haven't fitted these yet.


Finally replaced the other AVCS cam gears.


.... but then I still had an oil leak!? Turns out the oil galley plug adapter had spring a serious leak.


Teflon tape and a copper O ring should sort it out. haven't had a problem since, FINALLY oil leak free.


Just today, my aluminium rear trailing arms arrived - I also have fronts to go on.



Bonus round - STi badging on my car -


Oh, also added some sideskirt extensions

Progress!!
Glad your oil leaks are under control!

Twins! So good
How are the instruments hacks going?

jslayz wrote:Progress!!
Glad your oil leaks are under control!

oh, I'm so glad to be making forward progress instead of fixing issues.

bigBADbenny wrote:Twins! So good
How are the instruments hacks going?

I thought I had my power supply box fixed, but it turns out that the supply for the arduino dropped to 3V under load (from 5V) so I need to find out what's going on there.

Finally getting through some improvements - I did a whole bunch of rear interior work over the weekend.

Pulled it apart


Had to cut the end off the wire for the reverse camera to get it through onto the tailgate.


In order to install the Reversing camera you need to remove the whole rear fascia which has about 20 stupid nuts. Then needed to solder the power for the LEDs.


Then needed to cut and solder the power and video lines so they were long enough to go through the rear fascia into the tailgate


Had to quite significantly cut the grommet to get all the wires through - I needed to trim most of the centre out


Solder up the connectors, harness tape on the wires, and cable tie it all in place, excellent!


And it actually works! (although the reversing lights aren't coming on consistently - so it's likely my gearbox reverse switch is NQR)


BC coilover extensions on my shockworks allows me to easily adjust the shocks from inside the car without having to remove any trim! Here's the inside/bottom


And the top - sits perfectly, drilled a hole JUST big enough for the extenders and pushed them through, and they're held in place.


Added some sound deadening on the tailgate, all over it.


Sound deadener on the sides


Sound deadener everywhere! I ended up using an entire box in the boot alone (1.8 sq m)


The sound deadener makes a HUGE difference to exhaust noise in the cabin, bass, and general road noise from the rear. I can't wait to do the doors.

I also finally installed my rear cusco strut brace


The tailgate now doesn't go up by itself entirely, but it does stay up at least.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OKvyi-uA4vo - It makes a very satisfying noise, but I need to go back and add deadening to the back of the numberplate.

Bonus video - 2minutes of glorious exhaust noise and up to 8500RPM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xY92F-Ua8DM&t=9s

ohh, nice.

When are the twin gates going on?

Was mildly disappointed when I did the boot in mine. Still aiming to do closed cell foam or something like that to further reduce the noise.

craig_ wrote:ohh, nice.

When are the twin gates going on?

That's probably a little while off realistically, I still have a mechanical rear diff center, F+R aluminium arms, 2x rear trailing arm bushes, positive shift bushes, steering rack bushes to go on, and I'm currently working on finishing up the gauge system power, and then there's a fair bit of futzing and coding to make it work. I've also just stupidly bid on some cusco braces, which would go on with all the other suspension stuff. In between all that (after getting the gauge system finished) I need to finally get to the bottom of this fuel pressure issue so I can get it retuned and actually make stupid power (not that it's slow now, but I have all the lag and none of the top end to go with it).

.. Some people don't buy more parts before they've fitted the parts they have. Those people are not me.

andy_mac wrote:Was mildly disappointed when I did the boot in mine. Still aiming to do closed cell foam or something like that to further reduce the noise.

It could probably reduce a lot more, but it's stopped the 'booming' which it was doing, which made it somewhat painful over hours. This is a huge difference.

I did this job and straight after had to replace the reverse switch too. Bought the part and ended up getting a subaru workshop to fit it for $80. Well worth the new found reliability.

Shaheenis wrote:I did this job and straight after had to replace the reverse switch too. Bought the part and ended up getting a subaru workshop to fit it for $80. Well worth the new found reliability.

It's actually weird.. I put it in reverse, and the head unit switches to reverse camera every time, but the lights generally don't come on (and therefore the camera). It's weird, it's clearly getting a signal it's in reverse, it's just not connecting properly. I might try and investigate further. I do have a spare brand new switch though.

Any chance of getting a small write-up on what was involved to modify your instrument cluster? It looks really good!

AndySTi wrote:Any chance of getting a small write-up on what was involved to modify your instrument cluster? It looks really good!

the short version:

• Take it all apart, high res scan it.
• Open it up as a background image in a vector drawing program (I used inkscape) draw the basic shape. Design whatever dash you want. (This will take about a million hours)
• Print it out on some transparency
• Print out some darkening bits on a seperate bit of paper - you may want something less than 80gsm so it doesn't make it too dark cut them out and glue them together
• alternatively have it printed onto plastic and laser cut
• Remove steppers from board.
• Glue on GM steppers that can be easily driven from arduino. Make adapters to fit the needles to them.
• Wire them all up, write a bunch of code to control them and get the data from the canbus

Pretty simple right?


Meanwhile...

Yeee haaa!

Time for an update!

Got the dash screen going:




and I have a three stage plan for my dash/gauge improvements with my skills and knowledge increasing, as well as different hardware availability. This should improve the noise and smoothness of the gauges, it will mean the in-dash display will be instant, and will mean parts of the system are much more independant and easier to test.


Fitted my wastegate lockout - way easier than welding it, and reversible, for $70.


Got all the parts for my FINAL fuel changes - Walbro 460, with intank hose, wiring upgrade, fittings, Radium fuel pressure dampner, ethanol content sensor, new 10micron fuel filter.



Traded my aluminium rear arms for bonnet dent repair - got this lovely blue one on in the meantime


Walbro 460 install - I got all this in, but it turns out that the full size submersible hose gets too squashed and doesn't flow for shit once you install it.


Full install album at https://imgur.com/a/9p3DmBn

Under bonnet fittings/filter/etc install. Got pipe fittings to make it 100% AN fittings, just needed to cut off the lips on the nipple.


Close up of FPD-XR and filter under the bonnet - pretty happy with how they fit and where they are, even though it wasn't the original design.


Full album at https://imgur.com/a/jAK00gD

Just ordered the fittings I need to install the ethanol sensor, as well as flexible hose for the pump. The good news is that despite the lack of flow, the pressure is excellent, and the pressure holds from the pump (which it wasn't before.

Using my test rig: