Member Profile - TomTom

[bigBADbenny]

Afaik what Mick is referring to is this:
The most reliable budget solution being a (eg RSS) stock short (or long) block.
Like Owen got and outputting 250atw with all the right supporting mods and tune
Fresh engine with reliable factory tolerances

[TomTom]

Regretting my decisions now, some damn good pricing with Deshele Performance.

ej25
forged pistons
forged rods
closed deck
race bearings
2014 sti crank (heat treated)
14mm head studs
high volume oil pump
all machining done to suit
assembled and all clearances checked/set
$6,960

EJ25
-EJ25 block
-2.5ltr crankshaft
-forged pistons
-forged rods
-race bearings
-all machining done and assembled/ready for heads
$4,191inc

Ej25 / 75mm DE-STROKER 2.356cc
fully forged short motor inc fully closed deck block. Light weight rotating assembly to suit high rpm power, 14mm head studs, high volume oil pump, all machining done and assembled.

great for people loving the 2ltr rev but with bigger cubes to help with torque and broader power delivery.

$7,309inc

[alexeiwoody]

Don't regret it. You've saved yourself from having to listen to forged pistons slapping around on cold starts and deshele is also a waste of money for your purposes.

And definitely don't need to downsize your engine volume, there's no substitute for cubes.

You need to read some 2.5 built engine threads A good place to start is brainy's. Do you log your car?

[dr20t]

Don't regret it. You've saved yourself from having to listen to forged pistons slapping around on cold starts and deshele is also a waste of money for your purposes.

And definitely don't need to downsize your engine volume, there's no substitute for cubes.

You need to read some 2.5 built engine threads A good place to start is brainy's. Do you log your car?

Alexei - you serious?

Sorry to say but pretty much everything you said up there is crap

I agree if OP only wants 200 awkw then a stock bottom end with head studs will be fine. But given he has just committed to over 12k (guaranteed - I know nori and the ads guys) then your comments don't make sense. He's already committed to forged pistons and rods (thus the "noisy" comment is irrelevant)

Machining and tolerances are the most important thing to get right in the EJ motors, and deschelle are one of few to have it down pat.

And I'd take a destroked and closed deckef 2.5 any day of the week.

[bigBADbenny]

This^ How else are you going to harness the range of the TS EFR you'll want to run one day
The one that spools better than stock and holds boost out to 8K+ rpm

[alexeiwoody]

Don't regret it. You've saved yourself from having to listen to forged pistons slapping around on cold starts and deshele is also a waste of money for your purposes.

And definitely don't need to downsize your engine volume, there's no substitute for cubes.

You need to read some 2.5 built engine threads A good place to start is brainy's. Do you log your car?

Alexei - you serious?

Sorry to say but pretty much everything you said up there is crap

I agree if OP only wants 200 awkw then a stock bottom end with head studs will be fine. But given he has just committed to over 12k (guaranteed - I know nori and the ads guys) then your comments don't make sense. He's already committed to forged pistons and rods (thus the "noisy" comment is irrelevant)

Machining and tolerances are the most important thing to get right in the EJ motors, and deschelle are one of few to have it down pat.

And I'd take a destroked and closed deckef 2.5 any day of the week.

I am dead serious.

Mick, with all due respect, you seem to want to be the guy who knows more than anyone else about engine building the EJs here. And yet - you mention clearances, but you don't mention materials used. And you miss why the Cosworth parts are quieter compared to the rest of the mobs (some good 'mobs' out there, just not as a street engine IMO:)). I've heard Deshele are a great bunch, but I know they don't use Cosworth. I was very close to buying one of their blocks after all

If you're simply defending Deshele - I am not having a go at them. Their engines look great. The OP, however wants 200kw. So you would recommend 14mm headstuds for that? What's the use of a 350kw block if he's only running it to 200-250. We both (hopefully) know, that the big secret to keeping the EJ engine alive, even with Subaru glass pistons and springs for headbolts - is a well maintained tune. Not by "building a 400kw block and only running it at 300kw" as some people seem to have been misled here. (oil and water system upgrades should definitely be done).

As for the de stroked engine....that's your opinion? I also think it would be better than the 2.0 you have. I'd rather have a 3.0/3.3 with a gt35/40 on it. Forget the peak power BS, it's about where that power is.

[dr20t]

Taken offline

[alexeiwoody]

Taken offline

Yes. It seems there was a misunderstanding

[dr20t]

Yes I would like to apologise for saying its all crap - its not.

We just have a difference on "value" especially with some prior knowledge of some of the things stated

Cosworth pistons are great and I wasn't having a dig at them. Its more the other things

[bigBADbenny]

If the OP really does want 200 then why the heavy investment?

A stock replacement block would fit the bill all the way to around 250 with the right supporting mods and a set of reco heads (with pocket port lol).
And be done and dusted for that built budget including the supporting mods (rough guess).

Once you have $5K in your rebuild shopping list its the "Midas touch" effect.

Because you "Midas well" spend a bit more incase you want to go really big one day.

To be referred to as a King Midas build herein.
Some of our more esteemed members have this Midas touch.

[TomTom]

I appreciate input from all, it's been a great way to learn over the 2 short years seeing everyone's thoughts and recommendations on mods and even general maintenance. When it comes down to it I'm no expert and they're plenty on here that may not agree with one another, it makes it difficult to come to a solid decision but has made for a lot more reading and learning for me. It definitely makes it even harder when the automotive industry is seen as a "buyer beware" area.

[owen]

The only opinion you should be listening to is whoever is building your car right now. If you're unsure, Michael May and Scott Kuhner will be the ones helping you out. Everybody else's input is useless. Are they going to build your engine for you?

[TomTom]

Engine is in! All I can say is it's damn good to be able to drive to work and not have to top the oil up every few days I do like a clear nice yellow oil over the black stuff I was getting. Actuator appears to be a bit laggy which lead to a brief discussion on turbo upgrade, fuel pump and injectors. My arse hole has never felt so sore from driving a car I think it'll be a few months before I can save to attempt any other mods.

[Newbie GT]

Good to hear Tom

Hope you enjoy

How bad was the knock I'm curious so only under boost not idel ?

[TomTom]

Good to hear Tom

Hope you enjoy

How bad was the knock I'm curious so only under boost not idel ?

Cheers, indeed I will. I've been keeping a close eye on all fluids and my gauges. With essentially a new engine I actually know the history of it and that it hasn't been flogged and will be serviced correctly. The knock was on idle and certainly became more apparent on boost. It started after a run on the dyno. I've got no vids unfortunately