VIP GT-BBB

Show off what mods you've done to your car.

Re: VIP GT-BBB

Postby bigBADbenny » Thu Dec 24, 2020 8:13 pm

Subaru health check day in Collingwood this Boxing Day and NYE arvo.

Little Sams service station Wellington & Sackville Sts: 1200-1600.

Hoping to do more of these casual meetups, I’ll bring my tools, inlet & crankcase pressure test kit, Btssm & Romraider.
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Re: VIP GT-BBB

Postby Turbo Lag » Tue Dec 29, 2020 10:45 am

Will be there NYE. :good: Looking forward to it.
'04 Subaru Liberty 2.5i Safety Pack Sedan 5MT & '08 Subaru Liberty GT-B Tuned by STI Wagon 6MT & '00 Toyota Altezza RS200-Z 6MT & '16 Honda CB500F
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Re: VIP GT-BBB

Postby bigBADbenny » Tue Dec 29, 2020 4:08 pm

Awesome! Hopefully another small turnout.

Due to a very comfortable 3 cars attending BD, I was able to easily summarise each car and attach LV’s & logs, here:

viewtopic.php?f=34&t=36661#p449873
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Re: VIP GT-BBB

Postby jdmsubielover » Wed Dec 30, 2020 3:47 pm

I will be joining you guys there. Same chassis no turbo :D
07 Gen 4-BL 2.5i -5 spd man
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Re: VIP GT-BBB

Postby bigBADbenny » Sun Jul 04, 2021 9:16 pm

Couldn’t attend the Vic GnG meetup due to work commitments, the GT making a snack of the trip up to Bendigo and back.

I was looking around for a black postfl 2.5i auto for her ladyship’s personal use, and stumbled on a promising candidate!
Until I read the fine print and the model was a 2.0r!

That’s an na 2 litre with maf and dual avcs!

Would you or wouldn’t you?

The spec was premium but it seems to be putting a lotta eggs towards a cul de sac type engine?

Especially when the 2.5i is the essence of simplicity…
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Re: VIP GT-BBB

Postby bigBADbenny » Wed Jul 07, 2021 5:43 pm

Forgot to mention I’m celebrating 10 years of GT ownership!

And 150k km in that 10 years!!

And the GT has crossed 300k km!!!

Aaaaannnndddd… Im still on the original engine, head gaskets and turbo!!!!

Hang on! And I still love the car to bits!

And the best is certainly still to come :good:
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Re: VIP GT-BBB

Postby rexhunta » Thu Jul 08, 2021 7:02 am

bigBADbenny wrote:Couldn’t attend the Vic GnG meetup due to work commitments, the GT making a snack of the trip up to Bendigo and back.

I was looking around for a black postfl 2.5i auto for her ladyship’s personal use, and stumbled on a promising candidate!
Until I read the fine print and the model was a 2.0r!

That’s an na 2 litre with maf and dual avcs!

Would you or wouldn’t you?

The spec was premium but it seems to be putting a lotta eggs towards a cul de sac type engine?

Especially when the 2.5i is the essence of simplicity…


Is the NA 2.0 big enough to nicely haul these around or does it need the extra 0.5l for the weight ?
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Re: VIP GT-BBB

Postby Turbo Lag » Thu Jul 08, 2021 5:11 pm

bigBADbenny wrote:Couldn’t attend the Vic GnG meetup due to work commitments, the GT making a snack of the trip up to Bendigo and back.

I was looking around for a black postfl 2.5i auto for her ladyship’s personal use, and stumbled on a promising candidate!
Until I read the fine print and the model was a 2.0r!

That’s an na 2 litre with maf and dual avcs!

Would you or wouldn’t you?

The spec was premium but it seems to be putting a lotta eggs towards a cul de sac type engine?

Especially when the 2.5i is the essence of simplicity…


After driving a 2.0i and 2.0r... Good god I cannot imagine living with one. The 2.5i is sluggish enough, and without the added power in the lower rev range, the 2.0i/R feel incredibly asthmatic and lackluster.

IMO the 2.5i is perfect for a daily driver, and doesn't need to be revved out as much to get moving. I'd avoid any 2.0 models.
'04 Subaru Liberty 2.5i Safety Pack Sedan 5MT & '08 Subaru Liberty GT-B Tuned by STI Wagon 6MT & '00 Toyota Altezza RS200-Z 6MT & '16 Honda CB500F
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Re: VIP GT-BBB

Postby Turbo Lag » Thu Jul 08, 2021 5:11 pm

bigBADbenny wrote:Forgot to mention I’m celebrating 10 years of GT ownership!

And 150k km in that 10 years!!

And the GT has crossed 300k km!!!

Aaaaannnndddd… Im still on the original engine, head gaskets and turbo!!!!

Hang on! And I still love the car to bits!

And the best is certainly still to come :good:


Don't jinx it mate. :lol: That's a big milestone to hit!
'04 Subaru Liberty 2.5i Safety Pack Sedan 5MT & '08 Subaru Liberty GT-B Tuned by STI Wagon 6MT & '00 Toyota Altezza RS200-Z 6MT & '16 Honda CB500F
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Re: VIP GT-BBB

Postby bigBADbenny » Fri Jul 09, 2021 6:22 am

Jinx it? I’m well aware that was the previous owners privilege, they put 150k on it in the previous 5 years!
Plus dealership service abuse… not the dealers fault either.

bigBADbenny wrote:
I was looking around for a black postfl 2.5i auto for her ladyship’s personal use, and stumbled on a promising candidate!
Until I read the fine print and the model was a 2.0r!

That’s an na 2 litre with maf and dual avcs!

Would you or wouldn’t you?

The spec was premium but it seems to be putting a lotta eggs towards a cul de sac type engine?

Especially when the 2.5i is the essence of simplicity…


I’m sure my tuner could get the best from one, assuming they’re denso maf & ecu.

But is the exhaust avcs and resulting complication really worth it over the trusty 2.5i?

Anyhow she’s shelved her plans for now.

But I’m watching and waiting anyway.

The spec has to be sedan, auto and black. Probably a gen4 because of the pretty face, and from my pov, a postfl sat nav model.

It would be a great excuse to get a new set of Shockworks for my car ;) Already got a spare set of GT brakes too. ;)

What amazes me is the very close market pricing between 2.5i, 2.5t and h6.

Eg there’s only a few grand in it if that.

I’d take a nice example of any of those models.
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Re: VIP GT-BBB

Postby bigBADbenny » Fri Jul 16, 2021 10:43 am

I’m probably due for another fuel pump based on KM…

One of our members is doing the same upgrade so I dug up the install guide I used:

Nasioc GR fuel pump install:
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showth ... ?t=2303133

Here we discuss the pump sock:
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=21040&start=840&fbclid=IwAR1yS47HkG--Y9I6tg09m6KIyD8CT2xShXWRifPgayyr91x5QNBFMMqhwA4

Info on the orings, pump outlet and bucket legs:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=24840

Ryco bucket filter: Ryco Fuel Filter Z717 around $65 on eBay.
Oem is around $100…
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Re: VIP GT-BBB

Postby bigBADbenny » Sat Sep 04, 2021 4:34 pm

This was going to be a bumper year for racking up the km but of course the suburban and country AFL seasons are more or less over already: mpfnl just called it at least, and no CE POS installs happening right now either.

77FF5332-9036-41E5-9200-D4159DBFF45F.jpeg
77FF5332-9036-41E5-9200-D4159DBFF45F.jpeg (117.14 KiB) Viewed 3842 times


Thankfully I still have work in the factory prepping for “when we’re back”…

So spring maintenance season is here regardless and I have some want to do’s and now some must do’s.

My IAM issue has largely been resolved simply by injecting a little dielectric grease into the head unit body side plugs, no more cutting out stock nav & McIntosh.

The car now uses Penrite diesel oil: 20w60, and in turn avcs issues are less apparent.

I check my oil so frequently, I broke the dipstick! Luckily almost any H4 dipstick is the same part, so that will be easy to find.

And then the a/c simply stopped working.
Of course I’m looking at the FSM, plan is to test fuses and relay before looking for a s/h a/c compressor if required.

And I modded the car (again!) with a new indicator flasher from Kane Hilmer on the FB group…
This replaced the tap-turn that I’ve have since forever, and it adds a few fancy features like courtesy illumination.
The tap-turn will go into the 2.5i, the flasher relay in that car is inaudible…

I’m on the hunt for some head unit and nav plugs from a wreck that had either McIntosh or Kenwood HU and stock nav.
Plan is to retrofit nav in our 2.5i.
I have the nav kit, DVD and din & GPS aerial, but not the DVD & head unit plugs. Hmu if youse gots!
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Re: VIP GT-BBB

Postby bigBADbenny » Sat Oct 09, 2021 6:24 am

As we know, maintaining any car with lots of KM becomes a exercise in eventually fixing everything and doing some things over and over again.

Sometimes it’s going to be a system that’s generally way over ones head, a cul de sac of automotive knowledge, somewhere you’d rather not go, into the unknown.

Well one fine day recently, my AC stopped working as I started the car on my way home from work.
Instead of blowing cold air, it blew at ambient temperature, as if the AC was off. There was also a distinct hissing sound under the drivers dash when the AC switch was on…

Generally you might feel fairly confident about maintaining your car, but all of a sudden you find yourself at the edge of a precipice staring into the unknown and with all the associated peril of potentially getting rail roaded by your formerly benign mechanic, now immediately turned evil, who has now locked onto your merest suggestion that diagnosing and definitely fixing the issue was well beyond the scope of your comprehension, tools and care.

Of course that’s ridiculous, but an uncertain and giddy feeling regardless, standing precipitously on the edge, staring into the unknown.

So what to do?

The bare minimum of self education is a start, a google site search of the forum didn’t reveal any similar symptom, or I just wasn’t searching smart enough.
Ok, we have the FSM at least, it’s great bedtime reading as it’s sure to put you to sleep, and fast.

The FSM workshop manual has a huge section on the hvac. I dug into it before taking my car to an ac specialist…

I reverted to simply using a multimeter at the compressor plug to confirm the click I could hear turning a/c on was indeed the clutch engaging.

Specialist diagnosis: no compression.

As such I supplied a s/h compressor and it was installed & gassed for a coupla benjis.

:29:
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Re: VIP GT-BBB

Postby bigBADbenny » Sun Mar 20, 2022 4:52 pm

DCE139BC-9C5A-4C60-AC98-24AF693A1561.jpeg
DCE139BC-9C5A-4C60-AC98-24AF693A1561.jpeg (36.43 KiB) Viewed 2686 times


Ever notice how around full moon…
Social media goes from being fairly crap to 100% dumbos?

Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Scroll>Fucksake>Repeat…

Anyhow the lib is already at c330k and absolutely needs every major system replaced or upgraded, some things for the third time!

Luckily, becoming an arch hoarder due to minor/major personal traumas around the I got the car, I already have most of the required parts, hoarded.

I really thought I’d killed it properly, weird fuel trims, smelling blowby when cruising, masses of smoke on boost with the replacement turbo…

Engine cannae take it captain! :shock:

Inlet pressure tested, for the billionth time…

Hears leak hissing, not near any hoses, but the acoustics can be deceiving…

Not picked up with soapy water spray… oh dear.

So I finally upgrade my smoke generator from a disgusting sooty rag in a can, to a nice 12v soldering iron in a pickle jar!

Still smells disgusting, even with aloe baby oil as the media.

Respo essential.

Baby oil everywhere on the driveway…

Result!

Yes captain dumbo the drongo lost the oil cap oring about the same time as 6+ months of topped off oil no filter changes killed the turbo via the still extant avcs banjo filters :P

And I found another tiny, tiny leak too on a silicone inlet return: easy ziptie fix. Yes Virgonia, the inlet is only under vaccum…

So the smole generator is extremely effective at just 1psi, hmu if you need a test in melbs.

Libs tune was adjusted for the new inlet, but probably with that crankcase leak, so probably time to person-up and diy rescale the maf.

Meanwhile the lib continues to smash out 500-1000km per week for work, just a pity I can’t use all the boost due to a failing clutch yet again.

Simply an incredibly reliable car, as long as one keeps an eye on the basics, and don’t ignore any issues like fuel trims being out of whack.

The point? Yes I forgot to mention the point.

There’s no FSM for human nature alas, I guess I’m talking about human fallibility specifically.

Here I am biatching about Dumb-Book and I can’t even get my shit straight with my car, the car that I know like the back of both my hands, probably better in fact.

I just gotta laugh and thank goodness I got to something like a positive outcome, eventually.

So much more to say but another day.
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Re: VIP GT-BBB

Postby bigBADbenny » Tue Oct 25, 2022 8:29 am

Ok so a quick update so I don’t forget the details:

Turbo blown, replaced.
Late 2021 iirc I service abused the original vf46 to death by topping off the oil for an unknown amount of Km/months.
Failure mode was soot and varnish in the banjo bolt filters, filters removed from the stock locations.
Turbo was replaced with a used vf46 and the inlet pipe upgraded to Perrin with the stock location pcv system returns.


Misfires fiasco:
Around this time the engine started loosing power briefly, luckily I was datalogging the issue, so at least I knew the engine was mostly running properly. No DTC’s!

The miss would come and go, but at last on a 1000k plus weekend work mission the engine started missing a few times per minute, on the freeway with 500km to the next gig!

I put some octane booster in the fuel and kept going.
Then on the final leg, the ecu finally threw multiple DTC’s and went into limp mode.
All cylinder misfires…

So whilst I’d been peeping the logs, I had very mild smoothing set on the AVCS VVT angle traces (stock setting in MLVHD).
The smoothing masked momentary dropouts in the VVT traces.
I added per cylinder misfire parameters around this time iirc.

Then the penny dropped: spark plugs 20kkm overdue!
And that’s by the very optimistic factory interval spec which is around 100kkm.
Some say 60kkm is better even for platinum or iridium plugs.

Oil leaks:
Around this time the throw out bearing got really noisy, and stayed noisy until…

Oil leak from turbo area, pouring, did I mess up the oil drain gasket???
Pull the turbo again and redo the drain fitting, linished the mating face, oem gasket…

Oil leak continues but seems to lubricate/quieten the throw out bearing: win lol.

Checks upper rear right of block looking for oil leak: it’s the sump breather hose, one of the two primary *block* pcv hoses.
Replaced the cracked pcv pipe with a diy suction hose made from heater hose with a stretched compression spring inside.

Intriguingly this pipe does not appear on partsouq, opposed forces diagrams.
I did find it in the Baja diagrams, in the FSM, and in dealership diagrams that use Subaru FAST EPC. Weird.


Oil leak continues and gets worse, still negative fuel trims, blowing smoke after startup, on boost, high rpm, still driving the car huge km every week for work.
Can’t use fresh air because of the stank.

Still inlet pressure testing, click click click from centre rear of block.
Take a peek with the tmic off, oil on top of rear block.

Find the vacuum leak and source of the oil leak: it’s the crankcase vent, this joins the heads balance pipes.
Instead of using the oem hose, I made my own again from heater hose and right angle joiners.
This allows the pipe to flex eg when lifting the intake manifold slightly to float in gaskets…

Bingo!
Finally fuel trims started trending around 0% instead of -5-10%.
The engine stopped idling rich.
The oil leaks stopped, however the affected area around the right and left bellhousing and rack subframe area required multiple cleaning sessions with degreaser and brake cleaner.

There’s still a slight drip coming from the bell housing area, so I suspect a new rear main seal and re-sealing the rear AOS plate is in order when the stuffed clutch is replaced.

AVCS fail again ad nauseum.
Then the engine went rough again, AVCS sync fail!
Hmmm, what’s the fault mode, since the filters were recently pulled.

Vvt angle oscillation, as we’ve seen from Jezza’s research, the solenoids do get falling on the pistons, making sync impossible and the affected bank goes from zero to max angle and back repeatedly. Easy to spot when logging.

I went through my collection of used solenoids and got one that worked on the second try.
However sync was a bit iffy, and then I remembered advice from the legend Simon at my local dealership parts counter: an experienced tech mentioned the filters are also called baffles in the literature, and may be considered to work as dampers to smooth out the AVCS oil pressure.

I had a spare set of banjo filters in my spare reco block, so I cleaned these up and installed them in the ocv manifolds, not at the heads supply ends as per stock.
Works great, I now have really good sync once the oil is up to temperature.

The car ran beautifully for a month, it was amazing to finally look at more “normal” logs.
FLKC aka fine knock learning started to clear up, and fully went away after a UEC treatment.
I added the UEC at the BPV reference hose for the idle and soak stages, but also added it via the map sensor hose to get to cylinders 1 & 2.

I’d been messing about with the knock sum parameter in MLVHD, and worked out how to turn it into a useful parameter:
The raw data increments & resets at a certain count eg 60 hits.
The count might go up in one increment or more per data hit.

So initially I used difference over time filter to turn a knock sum event into a data point, not an increment.
But I wanted the severity of each increment to be revealed as well.

After much experimentation, *totally heuristic* since I’m no maths genius, I got to a working knock sum per second positive parameter and it’s quite interesting, being potentially the data the ecu uses to determine FBKC, feedback knock count which might be referred to as mechanical knock learning.

You can find more info on Subaru knock control strategy on the Cobb and RomRaider sites...

This is the formula math, if you're interested in the schema. Knock Sum parameter is "*Knocks" in the formula

round((([*Knocks]-[*Knocks-3])/([Time]-[Time-9]))> 0 ? (([*Knocks]-[*Knocks-3])/([Time]-[Time-9])) : 0)

A filter can be applied to show data corresponding to these knock events: [Knock sum per sec positive] =0

Or show these knock events over a severity threshold: [Knock sum per sec positive] <3

If you get to use it, please share your results!

Inlet pressure test smoke generator upgrade V3:
TBC… almost there ;)

So the LV’s looked great for around a month, then the rich idle returned, and fuel learning went -5% but in the two upper airflow ranges.
Time to inlet pressure test, this time using just my breath to pressurise the inlet tract, from the bpv reference hose to have silence during the test, and to be closer to the intake manifold.

Tang tang tang noise as I pushed over 1psi in the inlet tract…
Hmmm what could it be? Adding soapy water spray got it making a weeee squirrely noise decreasing as the pressure very slowly dropped.

I had found some resistive wire, a 240V replacement radiant heater element at a garage sale, so why not ditch the hard to seal 12V soldering iron, and use some resistive wire crimped to heavier gauge wire to a 12v battery?

And it works great with the element in baby oil, just gets hot enough to heat the oil but not burn it.

So with the smoke in the inlet, bicycle floor pump for silence, I found the leak below the passenger tgv: lower intake manifold gasket.
These have really low torque spec due to the need for thermal expansion & contraction and I guess at some point I messed this up?

They’re kind of a 100kkm service item and mine weren’t far off that so I put in a new oem gasket with the air pump removed and the inlet lifted slightly with a crane.

However the old gasket was difficult to remove and when I inspected the pieces…
One section was missing! About an inch of one of the thinner sections in the middle.
Concerning surely, so I broke out the inspection mirrors, inspection camera and very bright led torch and had a thorough look in the ports and mating faces… nothing.

Hmm I really should have bit the bullet and fully pulled the intake manifold, but I’m always looking for a hard excuse to retire my not quite dead 340kkm long block, so I buttoned it up, tested inlet pressure again (all good) and fired it up.

Tap tap tap, clank clank clank and the offending piece was munched up! :shock:

And that’s where it’s at, ready for a test drive after another idle relearn following another UEC treatment yesterday.

Amazingly the gasket piece munch did not register at all in the logs I made at the time.

If I get another intake manifold gasket failure, I might try an aftermarket gasket, the type that appears in photos to have a raised seal around the ports as opposed to the oem flat graphite/fibre on a thin ally core type.

New “eyes”!
Todays mission: time to do the 2k clear headlight refurb on some spare headlights in the stash.

My rhs stock HID low beam was flickering and then died.

IME this might be the bulb, the igniter (bulb socket) or the ballast, luckily I have multiple spares to get up & running with fully refurbed “eyes” much needed!
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