AVO HD RSB mounts and rear subframe braces install

[bigBADbenny]

This DIY is for anyone new to doing suspension mods.
I didn't have a clue how to get started, so I researched the forum, asked lots of n00b Q's and eventually manned up!
I got comfortable with jacking the car onto stands, whilst doing exhaust bits (center and muffs) and a WL RSB install.


Here's the AVO parts, available from Tuspeed.com.
I reckon the HD RSB mounts are essential, the braces... I just like them and had always planned doing them regardless.

Pt1: AVO HD RSB mounts...

I used basic tools to install the Cusco mounts, but the AVO mounts require at least a breaker bar (aka flex bar) for the subframe bolts.
Being on a limited budget, I bought a 2ft 1/2"drive breaker bar and the required 19 & 17mm 1/2" drive sockets from the local budget hardware shop for around $40. The 17mm is required for the braces install... If you require a better socket set I'd consider the 43pce Stanley kit...



Take care chocking, jacking and putting the car on stands!



Removing the Cusco mounts with 12mm ring spanner, 3 bolts: done!
Top bolt was trickier for me as it was a nyloc nut on a stack of washers (as mine were missing the supplied upper nut).



The Cusco mounts are great, easy to install, but if I ever use the WL RSB on the hard setting I'd prefer the AVO mounts with the extra reinforcing point on the subframe.



Go the subframe bolt with the breaker bar and the 19mm socket!
Brace your foot against the wheel so you don't rock the car on the stands



Spin the subframe bolt out with your ratchet...



It's a rather large bolt... maybe 2"of thread?



Check alignment...




Start bolting up...




Heaps of room on the bolt holes to get it aligned... Meaning do up the subframe bolt tightish first, then the swaybar bush bolts.
Tighten it all up and you're done!


Pt:2 AVO rear subframe braces... TBC...

[bigBADbenny]

PT2: AVO Rear Subframe Braces install.
Out with the tools!
17mm & 19mm 1/2"dr sockets and a 2ft flex bar are key here, as is the 12" extension and the torque wrench... make sure there is enough clearance to get the 17mm camber bolt off (see below).


Ok first up get the 4 pieces and bolts out of the packet and read the instructions a few times.
The Lib should already be safely supported on jack stands to the rear and with your spare tyre also under the chassis adjacent where you are working.
Start by working out what goes where: this piece wound up on the other side so the open side of the boxed end faced down:


Then grab a paint pen or liquid paper and mark the position of the camber bolts:


Out with the breaker bar and start undoing!


Once again brace your foot on the rear wheel to get these subframe bolts going.


All of the bolts are pretty easy to budge... except this one! Its the nut on the camber bolt.
Once I finally got it going it gave two deep creaks before loosening
The issue is clearance, mainly... there is barely any room between the driveshaft cup and the bolt, I had to disassemble the breaker bar end to get the socket out. If I had a workshop, I'd have grinded down a socket a little to suit. May be the whole camber nut comes out easily but I never found out lol.
I had a go at cracking it with a cheapo ring spanner... Bad move - dont bother! That started to round out the bolt meaning I had to sand it down to get the 17mm socket on, which took ages. With patience I got it done!


Removing the bolt on the forward lateral link. This one comes out and is replaced by a longer one supplied in the kit.


Which requires a little commonsense juggling of bolts...
So as you wind out the OEM bolt, start putting any extra bolt in from the other side:
Also see the forward brace standing by on the subframe bolt...


I then used a ring spanner to keep everything straight and then threaded in the new bolt:


It was a little tough to get home so I used the breaker bar, 17mm socket and some gentle persuasion from the dead blow hammer lol.


Forward to a week later and I rechecked everything with the welcome addition of a torque wrench.
The instructions mentioned moving the location of a washer: from the camber bolt nut:


To this location on the forward lateral arm inner bolt:


I did that on both sides, torqued every thing to factory spec and thats it!


I view the addition of braces as a good way to stiffen the chassis response up a little with out going all out on replacing bushes.
Indeed I'm experiencing slightly more NVH with the braces. Frankly, having a wagon, I thought it would be worse...
Both mods passed her Ladyship's testing: these rated a solid zero (not noticed at all).

It could be my imagination but the wag seems slighly less bum saggy too. Moot point since the c/o's are going on sooon!
I can imagine upgrade diff mounts would really add to the effect of a more connected rear end.
How do they feel? If you could imagine rather solid bracing going back from the rear subframe bolt to the forward lateral link inner mount to the rear lateral link inner mount/camber adjuster.... Thats exactly how it feels!

[Bond]

they look the goods but geez they'd be easy enough to make. How much are they worth if you don't mind me asking?

[bosc0]

That's a good grease monkey. Props for giving it a go in the first place.

Next time throw your GTB wheels under the sills also.... can't be too safe..... cos nek minnit......

[cruisn]

Top shelf work Benny.

[bigBADbenny]

they look the goods but geez they'd be easy enough to make. How much are they worth if you don't mind me asking?

$100-200 range per set from memory .

Great tip with using rims for safety, Jake! I'd forgot that one - I could have at least pulled out the spare and used that.
Next mods, the wheels will be off, in order to remove a driveshaft (new cv boot) and the lower control arms for rear LCA bushes, RCA kit & BC's . More DIY install guide goodness on the way... You can do eeet!

Cheers Mark! It was your example & advice that got me going!!!

[<GB>]

looks good ben!!

[Bond]

they look the goods but geez they'd be easy enough to make. How much are they worth if you don't mind me asking?

$100-200 range per set from memory .

Great tip with using rims for safety, Jake! I'd forgot that one - I could have at least pulled out the spare and used that.
Next mods, the wheels will be off, in order to remove a driveshaft (new cv boot) and the lower control arms for rear LCA bushes, RCA kit & BC's . More DIY install guide goodness on the way... You can do eeet!

Cheers Mark! It was your example & advice that got me going!!!

Nice work buddy. I think when I get my sway bars I might just make a set like those at work

[bigBADbenny]

I'd like to see that! ^^^
Thanks for all of your advice along the way, Brandon...

[Bond]

I'd like to see that! ^^^
Thanks for all of your advice along the way, Brandon...

I'll post pics when I do.

[Bond]

Just had a quick look at the mounts under the back of my wagon. I'd say some re-enforcement of that sway bar mount would be crucial because the weld the holds it on is pretty piss small. Any decent amount of twist on that from a larger sway bar could definitely have the potential to break it.

Great mod

[Kekotic]

Just had a quick look at the mounts under the back of my wagon. I'd say some re-enforcement of that sway bar mount would be crucial because the weld the holds it on is pretty piss small. Any decent amount of twist on that from a larger sway bar could definitely have the potential to break it.

Great mod

Hamish_023 had his rear break because he upgraded the swaybar but not mounts.

[Bond]

Just had a quick look at the mounts under the back of my wagon. I'd say some re-enforcement of that sway bar mount would be crucial because the weld the holds it on is pretty piss small. Any decent amount of twist on that from a larger sway bar could definitely have the potential to break it.

Great mod

Hamish_023 had his rear break because he upgraded the swaybar but not mounts.

Could see that happening for sure. Especially if you had it on a hard setting.

If you really wanted to do the job properly though, you could always pull off the entire mount assembly and make a newer, HD version instead of adding re-enforcement. But that would be moving into dedicated race car territory.

[Corsair]

Great write up Benny. Might want to PM Ric and ask to put it in the Reference section also.

[bigBADbenny]

Cheers! Pt2 soon - pics already on my flickr