Member Profile - Brainy

[Kekotic]

Okay cool. Wideband is next on my install list after my coils. Anyone know how easy they are to fit on to the PHAT DP?

[mynameisdaniel]

Okay cool. Wideband is next on my install list after my coils. Anyone know how easy they are to fit on to the PHAT DP?

You'll need to have a bung added (essentially a nut welded into a hole on the dump). I'm planning on installing one too, the bung is usually included with the sensor so you just take it to an exhaust shop and get them to weld it in. Having said that I'm not sure if the ceramic coating makes it harder to do this?... The rest is just a matter of wiring it up to a power source and gauge/logger.

[<GB>]

Dynos are good for finding issues with your engine that u can't find when driving unless u sat in the engine bay and drove down the rd lol

[Kekotic]

Okay cool. Wideband is next on my install list after my coils. Anyone know how easy they are to fit on to the PHAT DP?

You'll need to have a bung added (essentially a nut welded into a hole on the dump). I'm planning on installing one too, the bung is usually included with the sensor so you just take it to an exhaust shop and get them to weld it in. Having said that I'm not sure if the ceramic coating makes it harder to do this?... The rest is just a matter of wiring it up to a power source and gauge/logger.

Yeah I know what needs to be done just wondering if anyone with a PHAT DP has actually had one installed.

[3rspecb]

Congrats Brian and glad you had a great experience with Cihan.

[ndlibgt]

Good to hear Chihan has sorted those issues for ya bud

[bass_straitener]

Congrats Brainy on an excellent outcome.

[brainy]

So it all started here...



Oil seal on the turbo went...

How you ask?

Short answer, 24psi....

Long answer?

I was advised that my actuator was opening up too early. Had it tuned around the problem to run 20psi. This was great until i decided that i should upgrade the actuator to fix my problem.

New actuator went on and i noticed that boost was now going higher. I did have concerns about this, but i think there was some spirited driving on the cruise driving which made me forget about it and have some fun. Turns out the people on the net seem right about 20psi being the upper limit of a vf46. Car would idle rough, but once accelerated it was fine... I finally got around to getting my retune done (shouldn't have waited so long) and on the dyno there was a puff of black smoke and it threw a CEL. Cylinder 4 miss fire.

Got the car home okay and pulled the turbo off. That's when we found the oil. Turbo off the car and it would idle fine!

I thought, great easy fix! Being a fan of the vf46, i picked something that was very similar in character. I ended up getting the ebay cheapy TD05-18g. Stock location, bolt on and gets me going.

I did this, and noticed that i still had some issues... The engine code was still showing a cylinder 4 missfire.

So i did the compression test and saw that sure enough, cylinder 4 was down on pressure. All other cylinders were showing approx 140, but Cylinder 4 was showing a psi of 30...

Engine out time....

[brainy]

The strip down begins.



Pulled the heads apart and found this:



I thought great, burnt valve, get the heads machined, rebuilt and call it a day!

The following is a special thanks to Bruce, Gino and Justin (especially Justin).

Justin convinced me to speak to Phil Lowe and get him to reco my heads for me. Turns out it was the best thing that could happen.

Phil Lowe had advised that from the sounds of things, he was sure that the ringlands would be cracked on the piston. This meant that the pistons had to come out.

Here i was contemplating on what to do.

1. Do i do it myself with my dad (awesome mechanic btw)?
2. Just hand everything over to Phil and let him work his magic.

After much thought, i decided to go for option 2. As the recommended piston choice of Phil Lowe requires the block to be machined to match, i decided it was easier to just drop everything off at Phil's and watch the magic happen.

Phil went to work and kept me updated along the way.

First was the heads (Pretty sure these are my pics, but may have them mixed up with Justin's):





Phil Lowe did some magical work on porting my heads.

[brainy]

Then came the rest of the engine rebuild.

Cosworth Pistons and rings
Diamond honed block
ARP rod bolts
ARP2000 head studs
TGV Deletes
Cast iron water pump
Other items i've missed on the list which i'll add later

The engine back:

Added some kando UEL headers heat wrapped:


Engine back in car with bits and pieces to go:

[brainy]

While the engine was out, i figured i'd do a few things while i'm at it.

Tomioka Racing Throttle body hose:


FYI make sure the hose is facing the right way, or it can cause some grief.

I also got an Innovate LC-1 Wideband so dad welded in the bung on the phat dump for me.

[brainy]

Decided that my DIY air box wasn't cutting it anymore (had a crack in it), so i got a Cobb SF Intake.

I also had to re-route the waterspray bottle for the tmic. This now sits nicely under the stock scoop for the box.



Gino gave me some of his duct that he had left over (Thanks Gino!) so i routed that as well while i was there.

[brainy]

My air pump is very noisy and it's been noted that it sounds like it's on the way out. Figured while i was there, i'd help it.

Air pump deletes:

[brainy]

Got a few other bits and pieces which i'll update on page 1. (eg. turbosmart kompact bpv).

Anyway, without me stretching the thread out, here's how it looked once it was finished.

[jacks-GTB]

well done

very nice..... you must feel great for doing the hard yards