Member Profile - Manaz

[shav]

Wow, thats a long time. I change mine out every 20,000km regardless. But thats me. haha.

The service interval on it is 100,000km I believe. It's something I was planning on doing shortly anyway (I've got a set of bearings to go in as well), but this has sealed the deal on it getting done - probably one day next week. I might get the rear diff fluid replaced at the same time with something nice and thick (to help it work properly).

Given the length of the standard service interval, I'm not sure I'd do it every 20,000kms, but I will probably do it every 50,000km from now on. I change engine oil every 5,000km, so that's every 10 changes, or every four factory service intervals (it's due every eight).

I used to own a falcon before this car so I was used to regular service intervals on transmissions. I also want to get an external trans cooler fitted as added insurance come next service. I had no idea the trans would last THAT long between services though. That is phenomenal. I spose it's ok if the car remained completely stock, but considering its tuned/modified then yeah 50k service intervals would be better.

[Manaz]

I get mine done every 20k as well... but you're right Robert, not essential according to the manual.

Did you end up getting headers Robert? I remember you getting the dump ceramic coated, but can't remember if you got headers as well. The reason I ask is that without headers, and having the mods you do, I very much doubt you'll get to 200wkw, but time will tell I guess
Unfortunately autos like ours have a tough time cracking the 200 mark on 98.
How does Matt get these power figures for you? Simulated dyno?

Hmmm, maybe I will change it more often then. I'll see how I go.

No headers, just the stock ones (but I do have the VF52). Matt based that estimate on the airflow that the turbo is delivering.

Dyno Dynamics Dyno. I have a phone capture of the graphs from the series of runs that were done, I'll annotate it a little and get it online at some stage soon. I should have taken a video of a run or two - the gearbox holding the car back was quite obvious. When we realised a tail-light was out (Matt said that a failed tail-light is known to cause the ECU to pull power), that also explained some of the behaviour.

I'm going to come up with a solution for getting print-outs from the DOS-based system too.

[peadya100]

Wow thats really interesting re the brake light... ill be sure to stay on top of my brake light checks from now on hahaha

Yeah i knew you had the VF52. I'll still be amazed if it cracks 200 though. I'm pretty sure you will be the only auto liberty to crack 200 (on 98 octane) with those mods on a reputable dyno (that ive seen) if you do. Mine only made 193 with the same mods. And my engine made an above average figure for an auto on its previous tune when it only had the VF46 (see build thread if you want a read of the graphs). The only auto ive seen crack 200 was peter who has the exact same car, tuner and mods as mine but he has headers. He got 200 exactly.

Either way, ill be watching with great interest to see what it gets

**edit** i just realised you have the STI mufflers on, so that'll rob you of a touch of power too.

[Manaz]

Just because I want to collect the data here - can anyone confirm the diff ratio of an AUDM post-FL 5EAT GT Spec.B with R160 diff with viscous LSD centre?

I know the post-FL 6-speeds got the STI 6-speed gearbox and R180 with a different ratio. There's so much conflicting information out there...

[Manaz]

OK.

Confirmed (thanks to dr20t!):

Post-FL STI 6MT: R180 diff with 3.54 ratio and viscous LSD centre.
Post FL 5EAT: R160 diff with 3.08 ratio and viscous LSD centre.

[shav]

Ah, those gear ratios would make a difference off the lights thats for sure.

[dr20t]

Get some Motul ATF VI if you can.

Motul has already been mentioned.

I suspect the transmission fluid has never been changed in this car, and it's just done 100,000km. So well & truly due.

Rob I wouldn't put the motul in. I looked at this when I had my 5eat built. Stick to the penrite FS ATF

Also - and I know this sounds hard to believe - but changing fluid on the auto can be a very bad thing if not done properly

Reason is the drain point for the 5eat is through the pan directly beneath the valve body. Now remember the actual functional part of the valve body is facing upwards when looking at it from under the car. You won't see the solenoids albeit the various slots on the valve body to allow fluid to drain to the trans pan are visible.

This presents a risk that any debris, sludge, gunk etc (even minuscule) flows with the fluid when you're draining it, but gets caught in the valve body when fluid stops draining.

You then refill thinking all is good, and sludge / debris is stuck on your all important valve body

Correct way is to vacuum / power pump it, which unfortunately results in twice the fluid being used

And thus why should be done every 50/75,000 instead of 20,000kms

Just my view

Mick

[shav]

Thats interesting mick, I had no idea it was that complicated. I wanna fit a external tranny cooler to my car, should I get trans flushed at the same time or not worry about the trans cooler till the service is due?

[alexeiwoody]

Finally you've updated Rob!

Easy maths - 260g/s = 260whp = 193kwatw. An auto usually dynos at 20kw less than a manual (with your mods), so you've got yourself roughly 173kw. 6kw off your dyno.

Nothing wrong with your numbers, I've had a look at my old logs - my lib used to flow 250g/s on the vf46 and dynoed in at 162kw kido tuned.

I bet you $$money$$ that if you change your fluid and take it back to the same dyno on a similar condition day - it won't add 10kw, let alone 35. A brake light affects cruise control...not dynos??

We get pretty hung up on dyno numbers and BS like that. A vf52 isn't just about top end increase, it's more about the torque increase. If everything was set-up well - the car should be much 'torqyer' to drive?


Next up new suspension, then e85! Woo



And for god's sake, please post up some dyno graphs or some pics of your car or something!

[KiDo_Tuning]

Finally you've updated Rob!

Easy maths - 260g/s = 260whp = 193kwatw. An auto usually dynos at 20kw less than a manual (with your mods), so you've got yourself roughly 173kw. 6kw off your dyno.

Nothing wrong with your numbers, I've had a look at my old logs - my lib used to flow 250g/s on the vf46 and dynoed in at 162kw kido tuned.

I bet you $$money$$ that if you change your fluid and take it back to the same dyno on a similar condition day - it won't add 10kw, let alone 35. A brake light affects cruise control...not dynos??

We get pretty hung up on dyno numbers and BS like that. A vf52 isn't just about top end increase, it's more about the torque increase. If everything was set-up well - the car should be much 'torqyer' to drive?


Next up new suspension, then e85! Woo

And for god's sake, please post up some dyno graphs or some pics of your car or something!

Yeah only managed 260 with 13psi and we had over 280g/s on 15psi but obviously not keen on burning a box on the bad oil with the added torque so we checked AFR and then pulled it back to to 13psi tune for quoted power. It did actually make more on 15psi but RR was doing the trans speed alert I have setup.
It was a 40 odd degree day and trans temps were 110 degrees. How well does burnt fluid at elevated temps transfer power?

Also odd how we got 312whp from a VF52 08 LGT on 16psi early last year on a Perth hub dyno but who is counting?

[owen]

Did somebody ask for dyno graphs?

2012 WRX with VF52
Full exhaust
PW new Verticooler
DW65c
Cold air intake + turbo inlet pipe
3 port solenoid

Typically I see them make 205-215kw with those sorts of mods on my dyno. This is the first one I've done with PW's new huge cooler. Customer won't succumb to my pleas to go E85 though..

[<GB>]

Found out today that I have burned transmission fluid, which is causing transmission slip, and limiting power - so I'll be arranging to have the transmission flushed and new fluid installed.

With bad fluid, plus a failed brake light, 165kW ATW. The turbo is apparently flowing 260g/s (I'll have logs later to confirm this), which should get me to somewhere around 200kW ATW apparently once my gearbox stops slurring (well, it actually isn't, the ECU is pulling power to stop the gearbox from slipping, thanks to my tune).

id get the transmission flushed so you get fresh oil in the torque convertor as a normal trans oil just dosent do this

[Manaz]

id get the transmission flushed so you get fresh oil in the torque convertor as a normal trans oil just dosent do this

Yep, that's the plan.

[peadya100]

Was that liberty in Perth an auto or manual Matt?
Also, did it have the same mods as Robert? You'll note that I was referring to autos with the exact same mods.

[alexeiwoody]

id get the transmission flushed so you get fresh oil in the torque convertor as a normal trans oil just dosent do this

Yep, that's the plan.

If you take it to a good tranny specialist/builder they'll be able to tell you the condition of the oil (if it's actually burnt...) when they drain it. Along with how much debris is in your pan, what it all means etc. You should be able to gauge the condition of the box from that.

So Matt, the brake light didn't hold back any power as the engine flowed 280g/s? Why so many contradictions...