MY04 Liberty GT - FrankenStien - EOI welcome / FS

[Boostaddict]

Then why dont you speed the dyno up to match so it shows an accurate or more accurate figure?? Or isnt that an easy thing?

[dr20t]

I think the point matt is trying to make is that the car wants to accelerate faster than what is being indicated on the dyno

Hence inability of the tcu to shift quick enough at redline and thus bouncing off the limiter first to second and second to third

I also think it's appropriate to point out the comparison on the first graph

The 98 tune where it made 217 also shows the base comparison run which was before any timing, avcs and boost changes were made by matt.

This shows 193kw atw which is slightly lower than the 196 it made on my previous tune by a different tuner in january - nothing has changed mechanically since then, therefore to me this indicates the dyno was pretty spot on, or if anything slightly lower reading. This was with more boost too (19.5 compared to 17 with matt's 98 tune)

As we all know, dyno is just a tuning tool and for slight bragging

And as I previously mentioned, I couldn't care if the dyno showed 150kw atw or 300 - if the car drives and goes the way it does now, I'd e happy regardless !

Mick

[KiDo_Tuning]

Then why dont you speed the dyno up to match so it shows an accurate or more accurate figure?? Or isnt that an easy thing?

Because I used a tune I have lived with in my STi, I knew what it was going to do in the real world Was not keen on wasting dyno time as we had a BR Liberty owner waiting patiently on his dyno run

[dr20t]

How did that go bythe way?

Was he happy?

[KiDo_Tuning]

How did that go bythe way?

Was he happy?

Yeah, made a solid power gain. Needs a dump and exhaust though!

[dr20t]

Good stuff

Glad youre making more lib owners happy !

[dr20t]

Bit of bad news

Switching ecus for different fuels is not an option

I was having a think about this on the weekend, and was concerned that syncing keys with different ecus may not work.

I tried flashing the 98 tune to my spare ecu and then spoke with someone at Subaru who confirmed my fears.

To successfully switch ecu's, you need to also change biu and keys.

Essentially the immobilizer signal comes fromthe ign barrell/ chip in the key, to the biu to the ecu.

Subaru are able to recode a key to suit a new / replacement ecu, but this will sync with the car's biu not the ecu, which then sends a signal to the new ecu

The ecu then stores a code for the next startup, and at next startup once the key is in the ignition, the signal stored by the ecu syncs with the immobilizer code and allows the car to fire up.

If you swap ecu's, the stored image memory code for the immobilizer sequence will not be there, and therefore the engine will not start

We even explored the option of using a spare key I have to suit that specific ecu.

But the problem is you will need to swap ecu, biu and keys at each occasion. The logic behind this is same as above

You setup the key to code with the biu and ecu, so the stored image code for each key / biu / ecu set is still there and undisrupted for the next time you fire that combo up. But all three must be changed for this to work and continue to work.

I have all the necessary bits (including a spare biu and key), but thought that for the headache involved of swapping biu, it's much easier to reflash the rom to the 98 tune

Let's just hope I never have to use the 98 tune again

Mick

[Rome_BRZ]

Bit of bad news

Switching ecus for different fuels is not an option

I was having a think about this on the weekend, and was concerned that syncing keys with different ecus may not work.

I tried flashing the 98 tune to my spare ecu and then spoke with someone at Subaru who confirmed my fears.

To successfully switch ecu's, you need to also change biu and keys.

Essentially the immobilizer signal comes fromthe ign barrell/ chip in the key, to the biu to the ecu.

Subaru are able to recode a key to suit a new / replacement ecu, but this will sync with the car's biu not the ecu, which then sends a signal to the new ecu

The ecu then stores a code for the next startup, and at next startup once the key is in the ignition, the signal stored by the ecu syncs with the immobilizer code and allows the car to fire up.

If you swap ecu's, the stored image memory code for the immobilizer sequence will not be there, and therefore the engine will not start

We even explored the option of using a spare key I have to suit that specific ecu.

But the problem is you will need to swap ecu, biu and keys at each occasion. The logic behind this is same as above

You setup the key to code with the biu and ecu, so the stored image code for each key / biu / ecu set is still there and undisrupted for the next time you fire that combo up. But all three must be changed for this to work and continue to work.

I have all the necessary bits (including a spare biu and key), but thought that for the headache involved of swapping biu, it's much easier to reflash the rom to the 98 tune

Let's just hope I never have to use the 98 tune again

Mick

Sorry to hear mick...but we both know you won't be going back to 98 unless an absolute emergency!!

[rooby]

There are other guys apparently doing it with one ecu and a net book in the glove box to switch tunes.

You might be able to go that route.

[Rome_BRZ]

There are other guys apparently doing it with one ecu and a net book in the glove box to switch tunes.

You might be able to go that route.

The reason he didn't go down this route initially is the time it takes to reload a tune, as well as the fact that every time you do it you are reducing the lifespan of the ecu...

[<GB>]

sounds too hard, how often do you want to be changing fuel types? if not often why not just reflash

[jaydece]

I heard that Kido Matt has a patch that could make you run E85 and with a press of a few buttons on your console/dash it would disable/enable certain tables/values to the other preselected tune and vice versa....and in real time as well? ....

I believe this method is being validated ATM.....

Mick? Have a chat with him and see what he says?

Good Luck

[dr20t]

Thanks Justin - I think it's only possible on the 2.5 ecu using s and s# modes

Gb - I don't envisage changing too often but I wanted to be able to in the event that I'm stuck somewhere running low on e85 with no outlet nearby.

Also in the event that a particular e85 outlet is out of order (given it's not the most popular fuel out there and it's likely to happen I think), and I don't have enough to get me to another one.

Having two separate ecus would as Rome said keep ecu life longer and prevent me having to carry around a laptop all the time

The other alternative is to keep a 20litre Jerry can with me at all times in the car but I didn't want to be hauling ethanol based fuel around in my boot all the time (more flammable than normal petrol I'm led to believe)

I guess now I'm going to have to carry my laptop with me everywhere

Mick

[rooby]

There are other guys apparently doing it with one ecu and a net book in the glove box to switch tunes.

You might be able to go that route.

as well as the fact that every time you do it you are reducing the lifespan of the ecu...

Really, what's the science behind that? What wears out?

[bass_straitener]

Really, what's the science behind that? What wears out?

Not sure if there's any science but the 16bit ECU flash counter has a max counter of 5000 and the 32bit 10000 from memory.

This is the theoretical point when the ECU will fail on a flash.

However you can brick your ECU in many ways. The most common being voltage fluctuations via the laptop battery or car battery not being well charged as well as dodgy connection.

Always do a test write to ECU prior to the actual flash for safety.