I know I mentioned subframe bushes way back when, and I was unsure what I wanted to do. In the end I bit the bullet and got the Energy Suspension (194102G) from RockAuto. Fitment was the usual, I burned out the old bushes and then cut the old bush sleeves and chiseled them out. Push in the new ones, job done.
The rear end also got:
JDM alloy trailing arms
JDM upper alloy arms
Whiteline adjustable lower arms (KTA124, I got these second hand and bought the KSK124 kit to refresh them)
Cusco pillow ball endlinks (684 317 A)
Cusco endlink mount (684 316 S)
Cusco Rear Arm Bracing (680 478 A)
Fresh Whiteline bushes in every spot
-Trailing Arm Front Bush (W63398)
-Trailing Arm Rear Bush (W63394)
-Upper Control Arm Inner Bush (W63396)
-Upper Control Arm Outer Bush(+/- 1.25deg caster adjustment) (KCA399)
-Differential Subframe Bushes (KDT906)
-Differential Moustache Bar Bushes (KDT905)
-Toe Lock-out Bolts (KCA307)
I have also fit a VA quick rack (2.4 turns lock to lock). To go with the rack I installed a Cusco steering rack brace (692 026 A) along with a set of Whiteline rack bushes (KSR207).
In order to complete the upgrade I also installed the u-joint from a VA STI. These are just a straight piece compared to the factory Liberty u-joint which has a built-in rubber damper.
I trimmed the outer tie rods to allow for a better range of adjustment.
I also replaced the Whiteline bump steer correction kit with a new Hardrace kit (Q0796). I also installed Cusco endlinks (667 318 A).
In further suspension mods, I got the Caster top hats for the Shockworks. The new hats move the suspension top mount further towards the rear of the car giving more positive caster.
I also forgot to mention about the transmission mount stuff I added in the last post, but it also crosses over as I bought the Cusco kit which also includes the engine mounts (660-911-SET). I also fit the Whiteline Transmission Subframe Bushes (KDT901).
My old setup had some heat wrap around the wastegate piping where it ran over the C/V boot, I didn't love this, so I have added the Cusco Heat Shield (6A1 047 F)
I have also done some more engine work since the last post.
I didn't trust the AVCS sprockets that I had, so decided to rebuild them.
My top tip is to make sure you have the right tool. A lot of places sell the bit by itself, but the Toledo 301318 set comes with the correct bit and is only about $25 and available at a lot of local tool shops.
The ins and outs of cleaning them is to undo the bolts, take the gears apart (carefully), clean everything, and then put them back together in the reverse order.
The other tip when reassembling is to use a camshaft to line everything up when torquing down the bolts.
As you can see, even from a non-spun bearing engine, these weren't exactly clean
I used this guide, my only other thing to be aware of is that using a pick to split the gears can lead to you stabbing the gasket, and that is not a part that's available separately.
https://www.iwsti.com/threads/avcs-gear ... ng.279112/
The long block is mostly together, most bits are the same in terms of fuel bits and pieces (more is being updated, but I'll mention it when I do it). The main change at this point is that the injectors are ID1700XDS rather than the 1050s that were in there before.
With the timing belt on, it became pretty clear that the timing is a bit out due to changes in deck height and gasket thickness.
I made a degree wheel and piston stop
After taking some measurements on the RH bank, I found that both intake and exhaust were roughly 10 degrees retarded.
I then installed an eccentric idler and that has changed the intake to being 3 degrees retarded and the exhaust to 2 degrees advanced. I am happy enough with this result and at least know what the numbers are. I still need to take some measurements on the LH bank, but it should be close to the RH side.
I also painted my brakes which I have been meaning to do for ages.
Big thanks to Boxer Beauty for making some custom decals for the Alcons
The rear Brembos still need some work as the dogbones put the caliper mounting bolts in the same spot as the aluminium trailing arm.
Ideally I find a set of TbSTI backing plates, but I'm not holding my breath, the other option is custom dogbones that rotate the calipers down slightly to give the bolt enough clearance.
