Sean's MY04 LGT Slushwagon

[KiDo_Tuning]

Little more information now I'm not so tired

As you can see from the pics, the stock LGT plastic intake manifold is gone and an STi one is in its place. I've used the stock LGT throttle body as the STi one has an extra sensor in; I'm guessing this is the reason Mick tells me it won't 'talk' to the LGT ECU.

Stock STi throttle has a 3bar MAP sensor in it

[Sean82]

So I've had the engine in for about month now and I've got to admit, it hasn't been as easy as I thought (or rather, hoped).

I've had a couple of vac/boost leaks, exhaust leaks and manifold riser issues (TGV deletes to those with factory TGVs )

One of the first issues that I came across was a painfully rough idle and a weird tapping noise that was intermittent.



Turns out that I had the coolant temp sensor into the BCS and vice versa. Not recommended. Plugs in the right way, all things sweet.

A few days later, I munched the power steering/alternator belt. So not cool! I'd not put enough tension on the belt when I installed the engine by the looks of it.
Also found a probable leak in the stock PS pump but really can't be bothered fixing it yet as it's so minor and steering is fine (probably should before something breaks properly though)

New engine had been in with some home made TGV deletes that I got from Mi-key with 8mm phenolic spacers. These came out last weekend in favour of Zerolift composite risers (after they finally arrived).
I found out that when I installed the composite risers, they were for the pastil manifold and not the metal STi ones so I could only put the four "corner" bolts in holding the mani to the risers. Also crushed them a bit when torquing down the bolts. It might look like I've over tightened them, but I did the risers to the heads up to 25Nm; I couldn't find any instructions anyway on what to tighten them to so started off at 20Nm (WRM states 30Nm for stock risers) and went to 25Nm after there was still some play at 20Nm.
After a few days, I could hear a massive leak in the manifold to riser join on the RHS of the manifold. So annoying as it was causing AF learning to be +14% at idle and the AF correction to run anywhere from 15% to 20% (so effectively adding 30-35% fuel at idle).
So only a couple of days after installing the composite risers, they came out and the metal home made ones went back in (sans phenolic spacers because I really don't want to run 8mm ones as they made installing the TMIC a bit annoying; not hard, just annoying).
Here's the destructed Zerolift risers:









Now, for those with Zerolift (nee MAW) composite risers, or those contemplating buying some, I'm not having a go at the product. The fault is partly* mine for not ensuring I had ordered the correct ones (or actually that Rising Sun had as Kris ordered them ). I should have checked first and therefore my fk up. But, I probably won't be using them again. I'm investigating some Process West billet ones (because über sexy) with some 3 mm phenolic spacers.
*OK, so it's pretty much totally my fault...whatever

Other issues... two exhaust leaks.
I initially found a leak on the left bank header gasket that I patched up with Ultra Copper (incidentally, I bought a new tube for the install, and it's now almost empty )
Then another reared it's ugly head that I suspected to be at the header/up pipe join. I ordered a full gasket kit from Kinugawa and that arrived last week.
I found the leak (with a buddy's help) was actually at the turbo DP gasket...you could hear it blatantly, but also feel it. And see the results when I took the "gasket" out (special made gasket by Boxer4 when I put the VF49 on my stock engine)



Just a bit of a leak...

Went to install the new gaskets from Kinugawa and found out Subaru has not two, like I previously thought, but THREE header/up pipe flange designs for their twin scrolls
I'd ordered the VF36/37/42 ones because there was no 49/53/56 set thinking they'd work. Well, all but the header/up pipe one does

Here's the stock 49 one over laying the one I got from Kinu


The stock LGT twin scroll outline is the same shape as the 49/53/56 one, but the pipes are differently spaced so won't work either

In the end, I resorted to reusing the Grimmspeed header gaskets in their original place as they're only 3,000 km old (went in with the engine swap) and modding the header gaskets that came in the Kinu set:


Plenty of Ultra Copper all over and all exhaust leaks (forward of the mid/Y-pipe are fixed. Woo Hoo

Also, as I previously updated, I have ditched the stock STi BOV in favour of a TS Kompact, and here's why (last log done with the STi BOV, note the loss then re-build of boost at about the 6,000 - 7,000 RPM range):



No issues like that any more, but boost is a bit erratic so I'm going to replace the silicon BCS lines with stock rubber ones. If that fails, anyone got a spare 3 port I can borrow please???

Another big update, but thanks for reading

Sean..

[Sean82]

Little more information now I'm not so tired

As you can see from the pics, the stock LGT plastic intake manifold is gone and an STi one is in its place. I've used the stock LGT throttle body as the STi one has an extra sensor in; I'm guessing this is the reason Mick tells me it won't 'talk' to the LGT ECU.

Stock STi throttle has a 3bar MAP sensor in it

Will it work with stock loom? Can I just extend the stock wiring loom plug and use this STi MAP sensor??

[codylibertysti241]

You my friend have been a very busy man

[JT209]

Seems like Déjà vu reading this build thread.... you have wasted my lunch break Sean

Lib looks good through

[Sean82]

Seems like Déjà vu reading this build thread.... you have wasted my lunch break Sean

Lib looks good through

Deja vu? You did it? Or someone else other than Mick???
Glad I could help waste your time

So...I'm having boost issues. It's fluctuating like crazy and it's pissing me off because I can't find a reason. I've done leak tests and I have none, I've got a brand new TurboSmart Kompact in and tried another and it still behaves like a manic depressive on a combination of meth and crack.
I've made a plot from my latest tune revision's 3rd gear pull; it's full size here; but here's a glance at what I mean:



If anyone has any ideas, please let me know because it has my tuner and me stumped.

Cheers
Sean..

[dr20t]

Which boost control solenoid are you using?

Have you checked with Eric?

[jaydece]

Have you tried playing with the tune? 0 waste gate duty cycle? and run the car on just rated spring? I guess that way you could see if its mechanical or tune related? just a thought...may? may not point you in the right direction...

[Sean82]

Which boost control solenoid are you using?

Have you checked with Eric?

Yeah, been trying for the passed two weeks to identify it. He said to check the MAP sensor:
It is weird. I wonder if its something like a problem with the map sensor or the vacuum hose running to the map sensor is leaking slightly underboost. It's so erratic that it almost can't be truly bouncing around like that.
Going to try and plumb in the STi throttle body and use the MAP sensor in that and see if I can get it to work.
Oh and BCS is Grimmspeed

Have you tried playing with the tune? 0 waste gate duty cycle? and run the car on just rated spring? I guess that way you could see if its mechanical or tune related? just a thought...may? may not point you in the right direction...

Yes, it's only on this new engine. I used the turbo, heads and BCS on the stock and it was fine.


I'm thinking I might pinch another BCS to try after the MAP sensor. I think it might actually be the sensor because the gauge doesn't bounce around lie the logs show.
Thanks for the input guys

[dr20t]

My second suggestion was going to be map and purge control sensor (including vacuum hoses to these)

Failing that - check the wastegate actuator and then the tune

[Sean82]

You mean that fuel purge solenoid don't you Mick?

[KiDo_Tuning]

Little more information now I'm not so tired

As you can see from the pics, the stock LGT plastic intake manifold is gone and an STi one is in its place. I've used the stock LGT throttle body as the STi one has an extra sensor in; I'm guessing this is the reason Mick tells me it won't 'talk' to the LGT ECU.

Stock STi throttle has a 3bar MAP sensor in it

Will it work with stock loom? Can I just extend the stock wiring loom plug and use this STi MAP sensor??

Yes, wire it up and away you go. Stock MAP sensor scaling too so plug and play

[KiDo_Tuning]

Grab a boost T, see if it improves stability. If so, then boost solenoid. If not, wastegate creep

[bigBADbenny]

About the Zerolift TGV's, could:
the intake mani (to tgv) holes be slotted for fitment?
the same be done for the much longer TGV (to head) holes that distorted?

I had planned to get these in sidefeed for my T1 SFC rails project, but luckily scored JDM tgv-less items.
Having rails attached to those brass inserts in the composite just looks a bit scarey

[Sean82]

About the Zerolift TGV's, could:
the intake mani (to tgv) holes be slotted for fitment?
the same be done for the much longer TGV (to head) holes that distorted?

I had planned to get these in sidefeed for my T1 SFC rails project, but luckily scored JDM tgv-less items.
Having rails attached to those brass inserts in the composite just looks a bit scarey

- yes I could have slotted the manifold out, but I didn't want to; right product and it wouldn't be an issue

- I doubt it mate; the bolts holding TGVs/riser to the head don't like up with any holes on the mani

I wouldn't like to have a decent set of billet or other aftermarket rails attached to them either. And especially not side feeds
I'm going to run the deletes I have for a while until I decide what to do. I'm actually toying with running the stock manifold if I go FMIC set up so the heat soak won't be an issue...