Jack_Keaka wrote:So 4k just for the motor? Needs everything else to go with it to make it worth your while. Otherwise what's the point? This will blow over 5k so fkn quickly.
rooby wrote:I'm sure that monitoring your car to the most minute detail would provide good information to help you keep your car in tip top shape, however I think the monitoring obsession gets a bit excessive at times.
There is a factor that no one ever seems to mention in these types of discussions...
Motors, like pretty much everything else in the world, don't all come out of the factory the same.
Some motors will be weaker than others from the factory, which can lead to failure regardless of how you baby it.
It sometimes just comes down to the luck of the draw, like if I buy a new mobile phone and it stops working after a month.
Look at how most people on here look after their cars, doing maintenance constantly, changing oil every 5k, etc., yet sometimes they still break.
Then think about how many people buy a car and don't give a shit about it and don't ever get a service, or buy only the cheapest of everything they put into it, and the car does hundreds of thousands of kms with no issues.
Even in tuned cars this kind of thing happens.
Sure monitoring things can a good thing but it won't necessarily stop your engine from braking.
Also, when you start monitoring there is also a small chance that you will turn into a crazy obsessive, constantly worrying that there is something wrong with your car
Flame me all you like but it's true.
rooby wrote:I'm sure that monitoring your car to the most minute detail would provide good information to help you keep your car in tip top shape, however I think the monitoring obsession gets a bit excessive at times.
There is a factor that no one ever seems to mention in these types of discussions...
Motors, like pretty much everything else in the world, don't all come out of the factory the same.
Some motors will be weaker than others from the factory, which can lead to failure regardless of how you baby it.
It sometimes just comes down to the luck of the draw, like if I buy a new mobile phone and it stops working after a month.
Look at how most people on here look after their cars, doing maintenance constantly, changing oil every 5k, etc., yet sometimes they still break.
Then think about how many people buy a car and don't give a shit about it and don't ever get a service, or buy only the cheapest of everything they put into it, and the car does hundreds of thousands of kms with no issues.
Even in tuned cars this kind of thing happens.
Sure monitoring things can a good thing but it won't necessarily stop your engine from braking.
Also, when you start monitoring there is also a small chance that you will turn into a crazy obsessive, constantly worrying that there is something wrong with your car
Flame me all you like but it's true.
dr20t wrote:Subaru Horizontally opposed engines, whether we like it or not, are more fragile generally that their inline counterparts
That's the reality. Subaru also built most motors to handle a set limit of power.
I have been one to mention that stock bottom end on a ej255 (all post facelift Gt's) is good for up to 220-230atw for some sort of reliability. But I would cap that realistically at no more than 50,000kms with a sliding scale depending on the type of driving.
The order of driving style that reduces engine life is : circuit racing, drag racing, hard street driving, poorly maintainer short trips. In that order in my opinion. However underpinning all of those driving styles are luck, fuel type, minor and major mechanical failures
It could really come down to one bad batch of fuel and a wot pull that causes knock and pits the bearing or blows a headgasket.
So as Rooby said it is luck of the draw sometimes. However there is no disputing monitoring being an effective "eye" over your setup. At minimum, you should run a boost gauge and wideband once you have ANY engine / exhaust mods / tune. You could then supplement that with oil pressure, oil temp, fuel pressure and egt gauges to watch it all
Dan - you won't get much change from 3k for standard head rebuild and new gaskets with maybe some arp headstuds.
And if changing to an 08 onward Sti motor (dual avcs ej257), then you can pretty much double the cost of the motor alone for the total job to do it right
That's with stock turbo and bolt ons. More if you want to change these
And then you will still have the cast pistons with (imho) incorrectly placed wrist pins that make them susceptible to breaking. It will handle more than an ej255 but not much more
Look for cheap second hand ej255 with low kms and then fix your tune
Mick
dr20t wrote:Subaru Horizontally opposed engines, whether we like it or not, are more fragile generally that their inline counterparts
That's the reality. Subaru also built most motors to handle a set limit of power.
I have been one to mention that stock bottom end on a ej255 (all post facelift Gt's) is good for up to 220-230atw for some sort of reliability. But I would cap that realistically at no more than 50,000kms with a sliding scale depending on the type of driving.
The order of driving style that reduces engine life is : circuit racing, drag racing, hard street driving, poorly maintainer short trips. In that order in my opinion. However underpinning all of those driving styles are luck, fuel type, minor and major mechanical failures
It could really come down to one bad batch of fuel and a wot pull that causes knock and pits the bearing or blows a headgasket.
So as Rooby said it is luck of the draw sometimes. However there is no disputing monitoring being an effective "eye" over your setup. At minimum, you should run a boost gauge and wideband once you have ANY engine / exhaust mods / tune. You could then supplement that with oil pressure, oil temp, fuel pressure and egt gauges to watch it all
Dan - you won't get much change from 3k for standard head rebuild and new gaskets with maybe some arp headstuds.
And if changing to an 08 onward Sti motor (dual avcs ej257), then you can pretty much double the cost of the motor alone for the total job to do it right
That's with stock turbo and bolt ons. More if you want to change these
And then you will still have the cast pistons with (imho) incorrectly placed wrist pins that make them susceptible to breaking. It will handle more than an ej255 but not much more
Look for cheap second hand ej255 with low kms and then fix your tune
Mick
rooby wrote:I'm sure that monitoring your car to the most minute detail would provide good information to help you keep your car in tip top shape, however I think the monitoring obsession gets a bit excessive at times.
There is a factor that no one ever seems to mention in these types of discussions...
Motors, like pretty much everything else in the world, don't all come out of the factory the same.
Some motors will be weaker than others from the factory, which can lead to failure regardless of how you baby it.
It sometimes just comes down to the luck of the draw, like if I buy a new mobile phone and it stops working after a month.
Look at how most people on here look after their cars, doing maintenance constantly, changing oil every 5k, etc., yet sometimes they still break.
Then think about how many people buy a car and don't give a shit about it and don't ever get a service, or buy only the cheapest of everything they put into it, and the car does hundreds of thousands of kms with no issues.
Even in tuned cars this kind of thing happens.
Sure monitoring things can a good thing but it won't necessarily stop your engine from braking.
Also, when you start monitoring there is also a small chance that you will turn into a crazy obsessive, constantly worrying that there is something wrong with your car
Flame me all you like but it's true.
dr20t wrote:Subaru Horizontally opposed engines, whether we like it or not, are more fragile generally that their inline counterparts
That's the reality. Subaru also built most motors to handle a set limit of power.
I have been one to mention that stock bottom end on a ej255 (all post facelift Gt's) is good for up to 220-230atw for some sort of reliability. But I would cap that realistically at no more than 50,000kms with a sliding scale depending on the type of driving.
The order of driving style that reduces engine life is : circuit racing, drag racing, hard street driving, poorly maintainer short trips. In that order in my opinion. However underpinning all of those driving styles are luck, fuel type, minor and major mechanical failures
It could really come down to one bad batch of fuel and a wot pull that causes knock and pits the bearing or blows a headgasket.
So as Rooby said it is luck of the draw sometimes. However there is no disputing monitoring being an effective "eye" over your setup. At minimum, you should run a boost gauge and wideband once you have ANY engine / exhaust mods / tune. You could then supplement that with oil pressure, oil temp, fuel pressure and egt gauges to watch it all
Dan - you won't get much change from 3k for standard head rebuild and new gaskets with maybe some arp headstuds.
And if changing to an 08 onward Sti motor (dual avcs ej257), then you can pretty much double the cost of the motor alone for the total job to do it right
That's with stock turbo and bolt ons. More if you want to change these
And then you will still have the cast pistons with (imho) incorrectly placed wrist pins that make them susceptible to breaking. It will handle more than an ej255 but not much more
Look for cheap second hand ej255 with low kms and then fix your tune
Mick
bigBADbenny wrote:And the OP should just do HG and studs for 3k and either learn to care for the car properly or part & sell up the repaired car and move on.
IMHO
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