Member Profile - 2008 tbSTI SWP Wagon + 2004 2.5i OBP Sedan

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Re: Member Profile - 2008 tbSTI SWP Wagon + 2004 2.5i OBP Se

Postby JezzaH6 » Wed Mar 10, 2021 7:11 pm

bigBADbenny wrote:Love it! Best content ever, you’re the guinea pig I could never be!
So surely SW brakes are used on track cars, eg 86, wrx etc.
What are they using?

Surely our talented buddies can make a GPS & thermocouple equipped arduino brake dribbler controller, so you can keep your brake temps in check on track?


Don't even get me started :lol: :lol: :lol:

Brake pad temperature sensors have been on my list of this to work out for a loooooong time!
2007 Subaru Liberty 3.0r-b 6MT
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Re: Member Profile - 2008 tbSTI SWP Wagon + 2004 2.5i OBP Se

Postby bigBADbenny » Thu Mar 11, 2021 9:16 pm

Monitoring brake temp trending is as easy as using thermocouples attached to eg the knuckles or brake shields...
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Re: Member Profile - 2008 tbSTI SWP Wagon + 2004 2.5i OBP Se

Postby Turbo Lag » Sun May 02, 2021 8:11 pm

Close enough to 2 months since last update and what an eventful 2 months it has been.

Since last track day, I came to the conclusion that the brake master cylinder was dead, and decided to go down the STI booster/MC path, because why not? Essentially this helps with brake pedal feel, particularly under heavy braking scenarios where our cars tend to have fairly spongey pedals regardless of hardware. Paired with the Shockworks brakes, this should be the be all and end all for brakes within reason. To add to my problems, the left front wheel was also incredibly wobly and felt like a front lower control arm bushing was completely destroyed - it also wouldn't hold an alignment at all.

Most relevant info can be found here as to how the swap works: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread. ... 81067.html

The main components necessary are the STI brake booster, and the Impreza MC. Both components are needed as the Impreza MC is a different mounting to our original ones. The Impreza MC is a little larger in bore, at 1 1/16 compared to the original 15/16 size. I'll update the thread at a later time with part numbers if anyone is interested in doing this themselves, but basically all info can be found on the above thread.

I won't go into huge detail on the effort necessary to do the swap, but it was around 3-4h effort for 2 of us to get the hardware installed. Much of the top section of the engine bay had to be removed to take the booster off as it's fairly tight at the firewall. Getting the booster installed was the most annoying part of this job as getting it fit on the firewall needed the right tools to thread the nuts on. The MC itself was quite easy to swap as it's 2 hardlines and 2 nuts holding it in place. Modifying the STI booster to fit also didn't prove to be that difficult if you had someone who knew what they were doing. The swap ultimately went well, and this part of the job wasn't proving to be that difficult. This is where everything decided to go downhill.

===

We had planned a trip to Alpine this same week and whilst I would've normally driven the wagon, it had been sitting on jack stands for a while after getting the swap done, and not having the bushings sorted either. On the way back from Alpine in the sedan, a front ball joint decided to pop out of the control arm, sending the lower assembly straight into the front bar, front guard and door, and destroying them. After some inspection it turns out the cotter pin was non existent - and of course it was the one job I decided to give to a shop as I was too time-poor to do this myself. Combined with the fact that I was about to start a new job where a car was *vital*, this was not a great beginning. After some roadside DIY we limped the car back home, but plenty of damage was done. Now I had 2 cars that were basically non driveable to top off all my other problems.

Knowing that this will be a pain to get fixed, I started to work further on the wagon to try and get that driveable - this meant getting the brakes bled and sorting out the suspension. Thankfully JezzaH6 actually pressed in my bushings which helped *a lot* in the grand scheme of things since it was tough to find a shop to do this so quickly. Putting the lower suspension back together on the wagon proved more difficult as it turns out third-party OEM replacement ball joints did not fit, and boss-transverse links were needed. After a week of trying different methods to get the ball joints seated, it turns out they simply did not fit properly at all. A different set of cheaper ball joints did the trick and slipped in with much more ease as they should. Regardless, suspension was now mostly back together and just needed to be tightened and torqued to completeness.

The final piece of the puzzle was to bleed the brakes and re-bed everything in. From past experience and reading online, this shouldn't prove to be too difficult a job. Firstly, began by 'bench bleeding' the MC on the car, and then 'bench bleeding' the MC + hard lines to the ABS pump, then bleeding at the calipers as per normal to relieve the system of any air that may be trapped. Upon the first turn of the key, the brake pedal was incredibly light and did not appear to engage that well. After re-bleeding all calipers again, there was no change to the feel, however I did notice the front left caliper was constantly bleeding tiny air bubbles when the nipples were left open. I attributed this to air left in the ABS pump and hard lines, and continued to flush fluid through the MC. Importantly, none of the other calipers had the same issue, and considering the MC works in a split diagonal setup, I started to think there was a problem with the FL line or caliper. I eventually ran maybe 10L of fluid through just to solve this one issue, but nothing appeared to resolve it.

Since the MC was brand new, I then considered the ABS pump being faulty. I replaced it with an identical unit from a manual car to no avail either. Next, the stock STI braided line from the hardline to the caliper was replaced, again to no avail. To also rule out the caliper, a known good caliper was fitted to bleed from, also leading to no result. At this point, perhaps another 15L had been run through, and the issue only appeared to be getting worse. From running this much fluid, I also learned that fluids have a very different viscosity - and thicker fluid can actually aid braking issues where a seal may be bad. In fact, comparing Repco generic DOT4 and ATE SuperBlue fluids, the ATE fluid was heavier and separated from a dumped tub of other generic fluids!

The last component left was the new MC - was it somehow faulty? After attempting to bench bleed it multiple times, I realised it would not bench bleed! Constant air was coming out of the MC1 line port, which is the higher of the two ports on the MC. When looking at the ABS pump from top down, it is also obvious enough that the FL line was clearly the highest point of the 4 - meaning that any air would likely end up in this port only. This led me to believe that it could be a bad MC that was DOA.

I eventually sourced yet another replacement MC, and managed to install that a few days ago. This one bench bleed very quickly, and proved very promising. Only using around 2L of fluid total, I was able to bleed the entire system out. Therefore, the problem was an MC that was DOA which is incredibly unlucky. Thankfully, after around 2 1/2 months the car is finally driveable - but the wheel wobbling still remains.

===

The worst part about this is that I barely had any control over how the events played out. I never would have expected a shop to not install a cotter pin, a ball joint that doesn't fit, or a DOA MC. Being absolutely sick of this and needing a car that was now critical for work, with my parents in hospital and myself nearly ending up there too along with life not going so well in other departments either, I decided it was time for another car.

After searching for around 2 months now, last week I pulled the trigger on a 2010 Lexus IS250 Prestige 6spd auto, in Molton Copper/Amber Pearl with an option beige interior (yes it is quite bright inside). Whilst watching the used car market, it was obvious enough that cars sell within a few hours of being listed if they're of decent value, so this one was bought within just 2 business hours of listing with no photos or details! It only has 66kkms on it, and 1 lady owner who treated it with care. It's in excellent condition and is by far the cleanest IS I've ever seen. It had most of the options I was after except the Mark Levinson audio system, but I was willing to overlook it for such a clean example. Hopefully, this car represents life getting a bit better again. My limited time with it has proved to be amazing and I see myself in another Lexus in the future.

Yesterday was the first day that both Libs were *functional*, so took the opportunity to take a few photos with the fleet before I decide what to do next.

Image

Image
'04 Subaru Liberty 2.5i Safety Pack Sedan 5MT & '08 Subaru Liberty GT-B Tuned by STI Wagon 6MT & '10 Lexus IS250 Prestige Sedan 6AT & '00 Toyota Altezza 6MT & '08 Subaru Liberty 2.5i Sedan 4EAT
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Re: Member Profile - 2008 tbSTI SWP Wagon + 2004 2.5i OBP Se

Postby nvmylh » Mon May 03, 2021 7:36 am

Geez mate thats rough, hope the folks are ok and the cars go easy on you from now on!

I went to change the oil in the wifes car on the weekend. Hyundai are the only guys to have done it in the past (so the book is stamped etc), crossthreaded sump plug, done up so tight the alloy washer is squished massively on 1 side. Now the thread is stuffed, oversize plug didnt work, new standard plug drips! Useless..
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Re: Member Profile - 2008 tbSTI SWP Wagon + 2004 2.5i OBP Se

Postby bigBADbenny » Fri May 07, 2021 6:28 am

I love your comment about Lex...

“I’ll NEVER open the bonnet”

Living the dream :good:
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Re: Member Profile - 2008 tbSTI SWP Wagon + 2004 2.5i OBP Se

Postby Turbo Lag » Thu Nov 24, 2022 3:56 pm

Can't believe it's been this long since my last update, 1 and a half years :shock:

The IS250 was gone at the start of the year, and somehow I broke even on owning that car considering the price I sold it for. Free car for nearly a year! Not complaining. What a great car it was.

As my luck would have it, the wagon ate up a couple of litres of oil in a week and it went through without me noticing... and of course that led to a spun bearing. It's off getting a new EJ257 at the moment along with some other small goodies to increase quality of life in its next phase. Anyone know of a quality VF52-like replacement that offers increased responsiveness but similar enough power compared to the standard units? :?

Since it will probably be gone for a few months, maybe even a year, that gave me an extra space in my garage that was asking to be filled. So I did what any reasonable person would do and buy yet another sh8tbox to fill the gap.

Image

Image

Image

It's a 2000 Toyota Altezza RS200 Z-Edition 6sp Manual in 3N3 Red Mica, imported a few years ago from Japan when SEVS first began. These cars have shot up in price lately, especially in Aus where currently the cheapest non-destroyed one is sitting at around 25k :shock: . I've always wanted to try one of these especially due to the lusted after 3SGE BEAMS engine, plus being a 6sp Manual RWD LSD-equipped 200hp~ sedan. I think of it as a more practical 86.

Pros:
- It is possibly the most fun I've had on the street in a straight line, mainly due to the screaming little 2.0 4 banger that revs all the way to an 8krpm redline.
- The sound is amazing, it's very reminiscent of the older 4AGE with a modern yet mechanical spin to it.
- RWD combined with an LSD is pretty great too.
- It came on some older Cusco coilovers, which offer surprisingly good ride quality.
- Interior is in great condition for a 23 year old.
- It's surprisingly rattle free inside and everything is incredibly solid, regardless of being a 23 year old car.
- It's in pretty good shape all around and has had a closed-door respray recently enough, there are almost no body defects.
- The headunit/soundsystem is pretty reasonable for an old car that's been updated.

Cons:
- The steering rack is incredibly slow, even compared to a Lib which itself, is very slow.
- The shifter is quite weird and offset, apparently that is normal. Who came up with this solution?
- The gearbox is way too long - you can reach nearly 110 in 2nd(!!). I can see why a shorter final drive might be very beneficial.
- The thermostat is absolutely knackered and it's hard to get the car up to temp, I've got one on the way though!
- The standard brakes are incredibly weak.
- It cost way too much for what is still a 23 year old economy car.
- The red is a bit yuck just as a paint colour.
- The wheels are somehow worse.

Coming from a Lib, this is a great option if you wanted an 86 but still want some back seats. The Lib, such as a 2.5i at 1/4 the price is definitely better value as an all rounded vehicle. Price wise, you can probably get a tbSTI in decent shape for the same price I paid for this - you will get a lot more value for money there as a complete package. I'd be amazed if any standard enough Lib is as fun as this though. The engine is so, so special. It puts a smile on my face upon every redline, even though the car is incredibly slow at typical driving speeds.
'04 Subaru Liberty 2.5i Safety Pack Sedan 5MT & '08 Subaru Liberty GT-B Tuned by STI Wagon 6MT & '10 Lexus IS250 Prestige Sedan 6AT & '00 Toyota Altezza 6MT & '08 Subaru Liberty 2.5i Sedan 4EAT
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Re: Member Profile - 2008 tbSTI SWP Wagon + 2004 2.5i OBP Se

Postby Yowie » Thu Nov 24, 2022 9:18 pm

Nice looking Toyota.


It's off getting a new EJ257 at the moment along with some other small goodies to increase quality of life in its next phase.


I've just been through something similar. What goodies did you go with out of interest? I went for an 11mm oil pump, Killer B oil pickup & windage tray, ARP2000 head studs plus mild porting in the heads and exhaust.


Anyone know of a quality VF52-like replacement that offers increased responsiveness but similar enough power compared to the standard units?


Keep the Vf52 and switch to E85 for more responsiveness?

If you want to decrease power but improve responsiveness - VF46? I have a spare ported one that will need a rebuild, but you probably have the time :p

That aside, some configuration of the TD05 that gives you the power vs responsiveness balance you seek?
Last edited by Yowie on Thu Nov 24, 2022 10:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Member Profile - 2008 tbSTI SWP Wagon + 2004 2.5i OBP Se

Postby bigBADbenny » Thu Nov 24, 2022 9:33 pm

I was hoping you’d post and you delivered!
What a goal kick, and if the red car is ever written off, put the driveline in… say an e30.

More response than a vf52? That might be a vf46 lol.

But seriously, I’d try a Pavel Engines G25-550 VF52 hybrid out of the USA or get eg Rose Rage to make you something special.

https://m.facebook.com/story/graphql_pe ... k1NDkzNDYx

Then there’s the turbo Marcus Hondros upgraded to that made around 230wkw… at 16psi…

The other options are probably all twin scroll.

Did the 2.5t die from just low oil or low oil and spirited driving? :evil:
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