2007 3.0r-b JDM DCCD Swap

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2007 3.0r-b JDM DCCD Swap

Postby JezzaH6 » Sun Feb 14, 2021 8:19 pm

I was going to put this in my member profile, but after a bit of thought I figured it is a big enough of a project to warrant it's own thread!

After enjoying 4 track days and over 220k kms of less-than-gentle driving, the 6mt in my 2007 3.0r-b was showing signs of death. 4th gear, at least without double clutching, wasn't really a thing, and when cold 2nd and 6th weren't really possible even with double clutching. I was running Pentrite Pro Gear 75w90. My first thought was the Penrite fluid wasn't playing nicely with the 6mt (which is a common thing I found after running into issues ofc), so I swapped it out for some genuine squeezed dinosaur (Non-synthetic 75w90), which did make a big difference. The car was a lot more driveable, and it was only after the transmission fluid got really hot (ie. hard mountain driving/ track) that the 4th gear grind came back.

So, I did what any red blooded human being would do, and started looking for DCCD-equipped transmissions to swap into a liberty!
Nah not really. Initially I though I would just get mine rebuilt to factory specs. Until I got quotes back anyway. With quotes sitting around the 2-4k mark, I thought (for a few dumb moments anyway) that, a-la my DIY engine rebuild, I would attempt a transmission rebuild. This thought died quickly the first time I read through that part of the FSM.

I then looked into used transmissions, with the idea being to pay for the rebuild and then just install it myself. This is when I stumbled on the one- a 2003 DCCD equipped 6mt. It was a little out of my price range at the time, as I would require a new rear diff and front shafts, but I bookmarked the tab and kept looking. Every time I looked around though I kept going back to it. So I ordered it from an import shop in Sydney to get delivered to a depot in Melbourne. After waiting two weeks, bad news struck, and the gearbox never arrived. :angry2:

But every cloud has a silver lining, and I found the perfect gearbox for my swap. With the correct ratio for the stock R160 3.90 ratio rear diff, the correct front shaft connectors for the stock 3.0r-b front axles and the shorter 5th and 6th ratios, the TY856UB1KA came from a JDM 2009 GRB WRX STi, and included a helical front LSD. As an added bonus it only had (claimed anyway) 85k kms on it. So I arranged for that to get delivered to the closest depot, and when it arrived I hooked up the trailer and picked it up!

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First mistake was parking the trailer on a slope. I'm in a hilly area in the eastern suburbs, and not that skilled with reversing a heavy trailer (especially in a car with a lightened flywheel and a heavy duty clutch) up a steep hill, so parked where it was convenient. Turns out the gearbox was delivered with about 2 litres of gear oil in it, which proceeded to slowly leak out over the unsealed concrete driveway. FFS :x

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After a lot of elbow grease I could finally inspect my purchase! The box arrived on a half-pallet, and included all the 6MT gearbox crossmembers and shifter assembly (which wasn't necessary for my swap but nice to have to sell with my old one). There was a bit of a patina on the aluminium casing and corrosion on the steel parts, but given the price I paid and the kilometres it had it was more than perfect! I assume it came from somewhere in Japan where they salt the roads.

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Enough preamble!

The stock transmission wasn't that hard to remove all things considered, especially since the engine was out this time last year so there was minimal rust, stuck bolts or leaked oil. After disconnecting the battery, removing the intake plumbing and starter, everything else was done under the car. On jack stands as high as they go there was just enough room to access everything, and it took me about 2 hours to get the exhaust, drive shafts, shifter assembly and existing wiring out of the way. After looking closer at it and especially considering I was on my own, I decided to quickly fab up an adapter for my jack to allow it to safely hold onto the gearbox.

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This took a bit longer than I though, and when I was done I was lucky enough to be joined by a mate to give me hand for the hard part- actually dropping the old box! The jack adapter was secured to the gearbox with some straps to try and make it as safe as possible. Another jack under the front of the engine to help get the angle right, and the bell housing bolts removed, meant the gearbox came pretty much straight off the engine with a minimum of fuss!

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This whole assembly on the jack was still too tall to get out from under the car. Putting a piece of old MDF on the ground to protect it, the gearbox was (carefully) lifted off the jack and slid out from under the car. Even off the jack this was close- sliding under the front crossmember there was less than 5mm of free space! Trying to move the gearbox around while laying under the car was very challenging- its 85+kg so its definitely not worth attempting this on your own! This marked the end of day one of the DCCD swap project.

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Re: 2007 3.0r-b JDM DCCD Swap

Postby JezzaH6 » Sun Feb 14, 2021 9:15 pm

After a lot of effort getting the old gearbox out I was pretty sore! As I didn't have to work for a few more days I decided to take it a bit easier, so decided to spend the time getting the new box ready to go in. I had ordered new gearbox seals from partsouq over two weeks ago, but these hadn't arrived yet. Only mentioning this now so you can laugh at me later (foreshadowing......).

Since I didn't have these yet I did everything else. I swapped over everything else that I needed to get the new box into the car. I also took the time to swap over some of the parts that had a small amount of corrosion on them from the new gearbox with clean ones from the old one, as well as running the wiring that's required for the actual DCCD.

I started by swapping over the cabling for the reverse and neutral position switch. I had new ones of these ready to go, but I ordered these based off my VIN on partsouq. Turns out these Liberty ones are the correct size switch itself, but the wiring is different. Simple solution- I just swapped the loom from the old gearbox onto the new one. I had to cut off the actual DCCD wiring from the original WRX loom, but that wasn't an issue as I was planning on replacing that anyway.

I used a high quality twin-core cable, wrapped in proper cable sheathing and used a waterproof connector on the end for the DCCD wiring. Unfortunately I didn't take any photos during this process, but it is literally two wires.

The connectors for the O2 and AFR sensors was added next. I did run into a light issue here- the newer (08+) 6MT don't have a dipstick (or an oil pump), they have a plug where that normally is. This plug would be really challenging to get off when the box is in the car. To ensure you can still fill up the gearbox there is a port on the side. This ended up underneath the bracket for the passenger side O2 sensor, so I had to mount this at a funny angle to ensure access to that fill port.

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I also took the time to replace the shifter bushings. I replaced these about 18 months ago with CorgiWerx, but an inspection a few months ago showed some signs of wear. I ordered new ones, even though after actually removing them the wear was very minimal. As these are a bit annoying to do with the gearbox in the car I replaced them anyway, as well as the shifter mounting bushings.

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I also took the time to inspect and clean everything on the back of the engine. I was very pleased to see there was no massive oil leaks after a DIY engine rebuild 12 months ago. I did note a small leak from the power steering check valve, and another small leak from the rear drivers side VVl pressure switch. I cleaned this up and resealed it with some teflon tape. I was planning on getting the flywheel machined, but given that the clutch (a mantic stage 1 heavy duty) and flywheel (Exedy lightweight) are only 12 months, and 20k kms, old, I didn't bother removing it. Still had at least 75% clutch disk thickness left so that's a bonus- especially after 2 track days!

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The controller I got for the DCCD wanted a dedicated switched power line, and since I had to run a cable into the interior for the DCCD anyway I chose to run a dedicated, fused connection directly from the battery, and switched it with a relay under the dash. These were run through the passenger side grommet, and the controller will be mounted in the position previously occupied by the CD drive from the factory GPS unit (long since deleted).

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After the effort that was the previous day I spent the rest of the day letting my upper body muscles relax and prepare for the difficulty of getting the new gearbox in the car!
Last edited by JezzaH6 on Sun Feb 14, 2021 11:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 2007 3.0r-b JDM DCCD Swap

Postby JezzaH6 » Sun Feb 14, 2021 10:44 pm

After a much slower day doing the more fun stuff (mainly a lot of wiring!) it was time to get the new gearbox in the car! Starting bright and early I got everything ready while my cousin was driving to my place. Together we got the transmission in place using the same method we got the old one out from under the car- slowly sliding it over a piece of scrap MDF. Then came the hardest part of the whole swap- actually getting the transmission onto the jack plate that I had fabbed up. Turns out 'getting it off the jack was easy' didn't mean getting it on the jack would be! :roll:

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Turns out trying to deadlift an 85kg transmission onto a jacking plate, all while laying on your back underneath a car isn't as easy as I thought! :lol:

Using a combination of brute strength and a few different jacks we managed to convince the new transmission onto the gearbox adapter I made for my jack. This was by far the most challenging part of the whole swap. After securing the new transmission with some straps, it was time to lift it up into position!

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As my DIY adapter plate was not angle-adjustable, lining up the new gearbox and the engine was not the most straightforward process. I had a bottle jack under the front of the engine to control its angle, and another jack under the tail of the gearbox to adjust its angle. After a few attempts, and jiggling the crankshaft a bit to get everything to line up, it was in.

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After tightening down the bellhousing bolts and putting a jack under the tail of the gearbox to support it, the straps could be loosened and the trolley jack moved out of the way.

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From this point it was just a matter of reconnecting the shifter linkages, the transmission mounts, the axles and the exhaust. It was then time to fill the gearbox with fluid! This ended up being easier than I expected. First I drained all the old fluid as I couldn't access the drain bolts with the gearbox sitting on the pallet. There was a good litre of oil that came out- luckily that didn't end up on my driveway too! Then it was just a matter of removing the fill port and pumping in the new gearbox oil. I chose to use Motul Gear 300 75w90 to take no chances with the new box. The new gearbox seals finally arrived at about 5pm that day, right as we were finishing everything up.

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Theoretically, this was the gearbox swap finished, at least mechanically. Still on jack stands I started the car, which fired right up, and ran it through every gear. The shifts were nice and smooth and the gearbox turned the wheels nicely (and at the same speed front and rear, which was a bonus :lol: ). After this worked perfectly I went inside for dinner.

After coming outside after a bit of a relax, and going to finish everything up like installing the gearbox and engine undertrays, I noticed an issue. Namely, the drivers side front axle seal was leaking. Badly. Like in the hour it took to have dinner it leaked out over a litre of fluid. Luckily I had a tarp and drop cloth underneath still! hard to say whether the seal was worn or got torn installing the shafts, but either way that was my punishment for being too lazy to pull stuff apart after the new seals arrived! :x

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So, it was time to remove the front drivers side shaft and replace the seal! As my help had gone home for the day and it was getting later and later power tools were out of the question, so it was a bit of an annoying job getting the axle out. But after an hour or so it was done. Finishing up at about 11:30pm, the car was finally ready to go- just in time for an 8am start the next day! :D

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The mechanical part of the swap if finally done! Got a few days off now (thanks Melbourne Lockdown) so hopefully I can get a bit more work done on the electrical part of the swap!
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Re: 2007 3.0r-b JDM DCCD Swap

Postby Kimmo » Tue Feb 16, 2021 9:20 am

Mad. Want.
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Re: 2007 3.0r-b JDM DCCD Swap

Postby bigBADbenny » Thu Feb 18, 2021 6:32 am

Love it!
I got hurt enough pulling my my07 dccd: paid to have it installed along with a reco clutch & lwfw.

Still gotta do my dccd controller install so I’m hoping to learn some tips!

Also: what’s the gearbox code?
I want to check your transfer ratio vs final drive.

Eg my my07 box is 3.54 diff, 1.1:1 transfer ratio...
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Re: 2007 3.0r-b JDM DCCD Swap

Postby bigBADbenny » Fri Feb 19, 2021 12:44 pm

https://www.rallispec.com/downloads/Tra ... Public.pdf

Its defo a 3.54 rear diff required.
I’d have to check but that should match your car regardless.
Postfl spec b is defo 3.54 r180 torsen.
A quick search on opposed forces should confirm.
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Re: 2007 3.0r-b JDM DCCD Swap

Postby JezzaH6 » Fri Feb 19, 2021 5:22 pm

bigBADbenny wrote:Love it!
I got hurt enough pulling my my07 dccd: paid to have it installed along with a reco clutch & lwfw.

Still gotta do my dccd controller install so I’m hoping to learn some tips!

Also: what’s the gearbox code?
I want to check your transfer ratio vs final drive.

Eg my my07 box is 3.54 diff, 1.1:1 transfer ratio...


Yeah I could imagine it being expensive to pay someone to do it! It wasn't particularly hard to do DIY, just time consuming and there are some parts there is no way you can do on your own. The wiring has been a bit annoying but me being me has decided to make it more difficult that it needs to be :lol: :lol:

The box is a TY856UB1KA

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With a rear transfer case ratio of 1.100:1 and a 3.9:1 ratio front diff it has been working perfectly with my existing 3.545:1 H6 Spec-B R160 rear diff!
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Re: 2007 3.0r-b JDM DCCD Swap

Postby bigBADbenny » Sat Feb 20, 2021 9:33 am

What’s 100kph cruise rpm in 6th?
2700 or 2300?
Looks like it’s a long ratio box :good:
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Re: 2007 3.0r-b JDM DCCD Swap

Postby RX25SE » Sat Feb 20, 2021 3:28 pm

bigBADbenny wrote:https://www.rallispec.com/downloads/Transmission%20ID%20Chart_Public.pdf
Postfl spec b is defo 3.54 r180 torsen.


My post f/l MY07 30RB is running a TY856WVCAA with a 3.54 R160

The OP's TY856UB1KA box is running a closer ratio gear set than my TY856WVCAA so I'd be interested in how it drives. The H6 loves to rev, so I imagine a slightly closer set would be a bit crisper. Mine could do with a few more revs at 100kph as the lack of low end torque makes it wash off a bit of speed on hills when out on the highway.
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Re: 2007 3.0r-b JDM DCCD Swap

Postby JezzaH6 » Mon Feb 22, 2021 8:50 am

RX25SE wrote:
bigBADbenny wrote:https://www.rallispec.com/downloads/Transmission%20ID%20Chart_Public.pdf
Postfl spec b is defo 3.54 r180 torsen.


My post f/l MY07 30RB is running a TY856WVCAA with a 3.54 R160

The OP's TY856UB1KA box is running a closer ratio gear set than my TY856WVCAA so I'd be interested in how it drives. The H6 loves to rev, so I imagine a slightly closer set would be a bit crisper. Mine could do with a few more revs at 100kph as the lack of low end torque makes it wash off a bit of speed on hills when out on the highway.


Yep that was my old gearbox! I agree at 100/110kph it definitely left me wanting more. The new box is a shorter ratio, sitting at about 2700 rpm at 100kph, and 3050rpm at 110kph. At this rpm it does make highway driving really nice; on even large hills the cruise control was able to keep me stead at the set speed, and an added bonus being since the engine was at a higher rpm the engine braking on downhill sections was a lot better too. Even the AC blew a lot colder since the compressor was turning faster!

The downside to this is fuel consumption :cry: Went for a long drive on the Hume and it settled in at 9.6 with the windows closed and the AC off. Last time I went this way it was closer to 8.8 with the AC on! It's still not bad, and I'd expect to be able to get over 650kms at 110 from a full tank, but it is definitely worse than it was before.
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Re: 2007 3.0r-b JDM DCCD Swap

Postby JezzaH6 » Mon Feb 22, 2021 8:56 am

bigBADbenny wrote:Still gotta do my dccd controller install so I’m hoping to learn some tips!


I finally got the electronics side of this working the other day. Ended up going DCCDpro's Spiider Plus. It was actually more straightforward than I thought given the fact that my car is a VSC equipped canbus one. Will be attempting to write up my experience with this in the next few days so keep an eye out. Happy to lend a hand/give advice but I'd be willing to bet you'd be able to do it :lol:

And all I can say is 'wow'- at the limit of grip it makes a very noticeable difference!
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Re: 2007 3.0r-b JDM DCCD Swap

Postby RX25SE » Mon Feb 22, 2021 11:19 am

JezzaH6 wrote:
RX25SE wrote:
bigBADbenny wrote:https://www.rallispec.com/downloads/Transmission%20ID%20Chart_Public.pdf
Postfl spec b is defo 3.54 r180 torsen.


My post f/l MY07 30RB is running a TY856WVCAA with a 3.54 R160

The OP's TY856UB1KA box is running a closer ratio gear set than my TY856WVCAA so I'd be interested in how it drives. The H6 loves to rev, so I imagine a slightly closer set would be a bit crisper. Mine could do with a few more revs at 100kph as the lack of low end torque makes it wash off a bit of speed on hills when out on the highway.


Yep that was my old gearbox! I agree at 100/110kph it definitely left me wanting more. The new box is a shorter ratio, sitting at about 2700 rpm at 100kph, and 3050rpm at 110kph. At this rpm it does make highway driving really nice; on even large hills the cruise control was able to keep me stead at the set speed, and an added bonus being since the engine was at a higher rpm the engine braking on downhill sections was a lot better too. Even the AC blew a lot colder since the compressor was turning faster!

The downside to this is fuel consumption :cry: Went for a long drive on the Hume and it settled in at 9.6 with the windows closed and the AC off. Last time I went this way it was closer to 8.8 with the AC on! It's still not bad, and I'd expect to be able to get over 650kms at 110 from a full tank, but it is definitely worse than it was before.


Thanks for the info!
What's it like through the gears around town?
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Re: 2007 3.0r-b JDM DCCD Swap

Postby bigBADbenny » Mon Feb 22, 2021 4:17 pm

You got the wheel slip sense happening?
I would expect no less from you, given your track record with tricky jobs :good:
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Re: 2007 3.0r-b JDM DCCD Swap

Postby JezzaH6 » Tue Feb 23, 2021 11:12 pm

RX25SE wrote: Thanks for the info!
What's it like through the gears around town?


Not a problem! Always been a fan of learning from other peoples mistakes so now it's time for me to contribute to the pool of knowledge! :lol:

In saying that for my use case this swap was certainly not a mistake. From a purely practical standpoint my old gearbox was rooted, and this one has way less kms and is in awesome condition. The front LSD is an awesome addition to these cars as well; it definitely helps get the power to the ground on rougher surfaces. I'm not convinced it'll make a huge difference on track, but time will tell (well about 2 weeks... :lol:).

I'm up at Mt Beauty at the moment before uni goes back, and on the rougher surfaces of the Great Alpine Road the LSD and DCCD combination have actually been fantastic. The front end feels so much more planted and even the worst surfaces around here are not enough to upset the car, even when hitting them at speeds you realistically probably shouldn't. When at or approaching the limit you can feel the power shifting around and the moment the controller kicks in it feels like the front of the car is on rails- its an overstated cliché but legitimately the best way I have to describe it. The car has never felt this nice- it is very confidence inspiring. 8)

Around town the lower 5th and 6th ratios are epic too. Cruising with cruise control is effortless and even with my custom exhaust setup its not obnoxiously loud, even though the RPM is higher. 6th becomes an actually useable option at 60 without having to worry about the smallest gradient :roll: . I'd say the only downside is the DCCD itself (around town anyway). The Spiider Plus that I am running has clearly been optimised for performance, less so for day-to-day usability, and as such every now and then does stupid things like lock up the driveline while trying to reverse out of a car park. In combination with the lightened flywheel I am running this makes it very very easy to stall the car. This is likely fixable with some programming, but hopefully not at the expense of outright performance :( .

Overall around town I am generally pleased with how well the swap functions. Out on a nice twisty mountain road it has really impressed me, and the only downsides I've run into so far is the fuel economy now at being poorer at highway speeds and the ease of stalling in carparks. Given how I want to drive the car these are compromises I am happy to make! I was worried about the swap not living up to my expectations, especially after all the effort I put towards actually doing it, but I am happy to report it's actually living up to my very high expectations!
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Re: 2007 3.0r-b JDM DCCD Swap

Postby JezzaH6 » Tue Feb 23, 2021 11:44 pm

bigBADbenny wrote:You got the wheel slip sense happening?
I would expect no less from you, given your track record with tricky jobs :good:


That I have! It was actually less difficult than I had been lead to believe after reading more into how the CANBUS system operates. Wheel speed sensors are accessible in the wiring loom for the VSC module (on the back of the ABS pump). This is the raw sensor data before it's converted to CAN for the rest of the car to do with as it pleases. As this is a critical function I spent a lot of time ensuring how I ran the cables wouldn't compromise signal integrity, and I have done about 1000kms since the install with no weird ABS, VSC or speedo-related issues.

The confidence this setup gives on gravel roads is immense. Running AD08's (so most definitely not gravel optimised tyres), the grip levels available even from standing starts with VSC turned off was incredible. The car just hooked up with a minimum of wheelspin even with some harder launches. The wheel slip functionality built into the Spiider Pro is nothing short of astounding given the setup its connected to (ie. a not-dirt optimised one).

I actually haven't been able to get enough slip on tarmac yet to feel the difference above the DCCD and front LSD themselves, but if it reacts as well as it does on gravel I think I will be impressed too! The roads here are too narrow to confidently push hard enough to intentionally slip and still have enough space to recover, so the upcoming track day will most likely when I determine the difference that setup makes!

While I'm away at the moment and probably am not going to be able to write up my electronics install for a few more days I feel like it would just be rude at this point to not give you at least a tease of what I've been working on!

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As far as I've been able to find this is the first WRX STi SI drive knob and DCCD rocker switch panel installed in a Liberty/Legacy! It mounts into some custom 3D printed brackets, and the SI drive functionality works the same as the original Spec B SI drive knob!

Thanks for the kind words! Always happy to lend a hand too if you want- from my experience actually having a function DCCD in these cars does make a difference!
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